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Your caster looks suuuuuper positive. You should have at least 1.5 finger widths between the fender liner and the tire tread when the wheel is straight.

Your caster definitely needs to be adjusted. Trouble is, the SC is probably going to give you crap for having aftermarket wheels, because for some reason Tesla thinks that their wheels are a gift from the gods, and any aftermarket wheels are tools of the devil. So, if you take it to them with your HRE's, they'll probably want to charge you for an alignment despite the fact that this is just a horrible alignment from the factory.

Did your factory wheels rub at all? Did you have the facory 19s or 21s? If so, put them back on first and then schedule an appointment with the SC.

Otherwise, I'd just go straight to a performance shop like Unplugged and let them do it.

Thanks for your quick reply!

Tesla is a strange company, that's for sure! I do understand that Tesla SC may charge me for an alignment but wanted to learn if during the alignment, they also check castor angle?

I bought my car with factory 19's(factory wheel did not rub at all) and picked up my car Sept 2019. Sadly, my car came not aligned as it was veering to the right. I had them do an alignment with the 19s which fixed the veer but they didn't say anything about the castor angle. That said along with your comments, im more inclined to take it to unplugged so they can take a look.

In your history and experience with my wheel and tire specs, should my car be rubbing at all in any height ofr the air suspension?

Thanks again!

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Imgur
 
Vossen HF-1
front - 245/35/21
rear - 265/35/21

I have air suspension but have been a little hesitant to lower the car. It would make it look way better especially after seeing all the pics of other S's that are lowered. Would be buying the Unplugged Performance brackets if I did. Any advice would be great. Has anyone installed the brackets themselves. How easy is it to install them and take them out.


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Thanks for your quick reply!

Tesla is a strange company, that's for sure! I do understand that Tesla SC may charge me for an alignment but wanted to learn if during the alignment, they also check castor angle?

Yes, they SHOULD check the caster angle. I'd specifically request it, though, because when I had the SC do my alignment, they didn't adjust it. It's adjustable on the lower front control arm...the front mounting bolt has a cam on it that lets you adjust.

I bought my car with factory 19's(factory wheel did not rub at all) and picked up my car Sept 2019. Sadly, my car came not aligned as it was veering to the right. I had them do an alignment with the 19s which fixed the veer but they didn't say anything about the castor angle.

Make sure you get the alignment readout (results) sheet when you get it done. Maybe your SC did it right, but mine did not adjust its setback (difference in caster from one side to the other) which made my car pull to the left. After they adjust caster, they'll have to adjust toe and camber. You want caster to be identical on both sides or your car will pull.

That said along with your comments, im more inclined to take it to unplugged so they can take a look.

In your history and experience with my wheel and tire specs, should my car be rubbing at all in any height ofr the air suspension?

Thanks again!

Imgur
Imgur

In normal, flat road driving, it should not rub at all, at any height. If you are lowered and take a steep incline at an angle, it may rub, but only until you clear the steep angle.
 
Vossen HF-1
front - 245/35/21
rear - 265/35/21

I have air suspension but have been a little hesitant to lower the car. It would make it look way better especially after seeing all the pics of other S's that are lowered. Would be buying the Unplugged Performance brackets if I did. Any advice would be great. Has anyone installed the brackets themselves. How easy is it to install them and take them out.


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View attachment 549733

Great looking car. It'll look even better with UP brackets, like this:

TESLA MODEL S - VOSSEN FORGED: HC SERIES: HC-1

I installed my own Unplugged brackets. Without knowing your experience / comfort level with wrenching on your car, I will say that I thought it was super simple.

The First time you do it, you'll probably want to take the tires off (you can do one corner at a time) to give you more room to work. But basically, there's one 10mm bolt holding the bracket onto the car....remove that, and then there are two T25 Torx screws that hold the sensor to the bracket. Remove the T25 screws, swap in the UP bracket, and reinstall in reverse.

You will need an alignment after you lower it.
 
Awesome. I was able to get the offsets changed to those. Thanks everyone. I'll be back once they come in, whenever that is, haha.

I got the wheels in, but had to take the car into the service center for something else so can't get pictures just yet. I just wanted to update that I had no issues with clearance or rubbing, which is awesome. Thanks so much to those who helped guiding me. I seem to have a little more wheel gap than others running the 20s with lowering links though. I'll reevaluate everything once I get the car back, and take pictures as well.
 
Yes, they SHOULD check the caster angle. I'd specifically request it, though, because when I had the SC do my alignment, they didn't adjust it. It's adjustable on the lower front control arm...the front mounting bolt has a cam on it that lets you adjust.



Make sure you get the alignment readout (results) sheet when you get it done. Maybe your SC did it right, but mine did not adjust its setback (difference in caster from one side to the other) which made my car pull to the left. After they adjust caster, they'll have to adjust toe and camber. You want caster to be identical on both sides or your car will pull.



In normal, flat road driving, it should not rub at all, at any height. If you are lowered and take a steep incline at an angle, it may rub, but only until you clear the steep angle.

Thanks for your comments.

I have a scheduled alignment at a performance shop tomorrow as I have lost faith in Tesla SC. I will definitely request checking the caster angle and get a readout.

I'll keep you posted for the results.

Thanks
 
landen420,

Your overall diameter in the fronts is too tall and u will rub on full lock turns.

245/35/21 and 285/30/21 would be ideal with the wheels you have.

JMO

Colindo,

Your comments are noted. I will get a proper wheel alignment tomorrow and have my castors adjusted and go from there.

I have been told by multiple folks including unplugged performance that the wheel and tire set up should fit and have no rub at any height.

We'll find out soon.

Thanks for your comments!
 
Your caster is definitely way off. Ask HRE who they recommended for alignments. You will want a shop that will not scratch the crap out of your wheels and since you are in SD, they can point you in the right direction.


Thanks for the confirmation and I'm taking it to the alignment shop that Unplugged performance sends all their customers called Song's alignment in Hawthorne, CA.

I'm actually located in Irvine.

Thanks for hte heads up!
 
Landen, I just realized I totally missed your tire sizes. Front is about .4" wider and .2" taller than the recommended max. Rear looks fine.

As Colindo said, your fronts may be a smidge too wide, but I think your caster is still the main problem. Once they've moved the caster back as far as they can while keeping the two sides equal, you can see if your rubbing is gone.

My guess is that your passenger side will clear it by about a millimetre, and your driver side may rub a bit at full lock in reverse because there's a bit less room on the driver side. If that's the case, you can shave the vent fins in the wheel well with a dremel or file and that may give you just enough clearance to eliminate rubbing.

Let us know how the alignment goes, and we'll help you from there!

Damn, just looked at those Vossen Forged wheels, the price for one is the same price for 4 Titan7's with the same specs... WTF? Do they come with a weekly cleaning plan or free tires or something?

They're just really good wheels. I've gone over potholes that would crack the factory 21s, and the Vossens take them like a champ.

The fully forged wheels are pricey, mine are hybrid forged which were about $500 each I think
 
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Deep Dish wheels won't fit in the fenders on a stock S. There's room for a liiiittle bit of lip in the back, but you'll still be flat in the front if you don't want to rub.

Now, if you invest in some fender flares or a widebody kit, it's TOTALLY doable :)

R-Zentric Fender Kit with Side Skirt – RevoZport

I appreciate the input. I'm not really looking for a deep dish, just more of a concave face. I know its only 5mm more out, but i wanted to see if anyone is running those measurements to see how it looks and how much rubbing they might be getting.
 
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landen420,

Your overall diameter in the fronts is too tall and u will rub on full lock turns.

245/35/21 and 285/30/21 would be ideal with the wheels you have.

JMO
Landen, I just realized I totally missed your tire sizes. Front is about .4" wider and .2" taller than the recommended max. Rear looks fine.

As Colindo said, your fronts may be a smidge too wide, but I think your caster is still the main problem. Once they've moved the caster back as far as they can while keeping the two sides equal, you can see if your rubbing is gone.

My guess is that your passenger side will clear it by about a millimetre, and your driver side may rub a bit at full lock in reverse because there's a bit less room on the driver side. If that's the case, you can shave the vent fins in the wheel well with a dremel or file and that may give you just enough clearance to eliminate rubbing.

Let us know how the alignment goes, and we'll help you from there!



They're just really good wheels. I've gone over potholes that would crack the factory 21s, and the Vossens take them like a champ.

The fully forged wheels are pricey, mine are hybrid forged which were about $500 each I think

Hey Guys!

Both of you are spot on with your assessment as my driver side castor angle was way too positive and had it pushed back. I haven't really had a chance to do a full on inspection at every ride height but at standard and low ride, both my tires barely clear the wheel well by a mm when I'm turinng right and left. I did notice that I have a slight rub in reverse almost at full lock but doesn't concern me as much because I will rarely be full lock in reverse.

In regards to tire tread life, what settings do you guys use? Do you guys have it set at never, always, or highway?

Aggmeister,

I did make note of your comment about both castor's being equal and had brought that up with the tech. He said in his experience with other teslas, if he makes the castor angles equal, the car would veer one way. After driving my car around, I had no veer and my car went straight so I didn't want to press the issue especially when I don't possess the knowledge that you guys have.

I wanted to thank the both of you guys for your time and information as I can now drive my car with some peace of mind.

I will do a full on inspection this weekend at all ride heights and will let you know the results next week!

Be Well and Stay Safe.

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