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FYI I have rears 21x10.5 et30 285/30/21 lowered with flush wheel and tire on a 2018 S , however I installed N2itive camber arms and toe. After I got a alignment with new camber set to -.7 the wheel stuck far out of the fender (around 1.25" out). It looked terrible so I had no choice but to go back to the way off negative camber (-2.5) in order to have the flush look. btw ground to top arch of fender is 27.5" in height.
So if anyone considering lowering with wider aftermarket wheel/tire setup keep my result in mind.
 
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Here is a session from the 2021 PLAID, when we first visited the US at the CES in Vegas.
21" Forged.
_SDI6597b.jpg



_SDI6619alt.jpg


_SDI6934.jpg
 
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few better pics..

Wheels: Vossen HF-7
Optional Red & Black center caps
Front: 21x9.5 +21
Rear: 21x10.5 +26
Finish: Satin Black
Stock tire size
N2itive RSX-2 Links set to 5mm all around
N2itive rear adjustable camber arms


Looks great. Curious what is the height from the ground to the top of wheel arch on the rear fender? I have almost same setup with links set at 5 but your car looks a lot lower…
 
FYI I have rears 21x10.5 et30 285/30/21 lowered with flush wheel and tire on a 2018 S , however I installed N2itive camber arms and toe. After I got a alignment with new camber set to -.7 the wheel stuck far out of the fender (around 1.25" out). It looked terrible so I had no choice but to go back to the way off negative camber (-2.5) in order to have the flush look. btw ground to top arch of fender is 27.5" in height.
So if anyone considering lowering with wider aftermarket wheel/tire setup keep my result in mind.
lol having similar issue after installing the n2itive camber and toe with the recommended camber. I'm at -.8 rear and now after installing my summer wheels have poke but my winter model x wheels were super flush.
 
lol having similar issue after installing the n2itive camber and toe with the recommended camber. I'm at -.8 rear and now after installing my summer wheels have poke but my winter model x wheels were super flush.
Interesting as I'm potentially dealing with the same issue. My Signature wheels are 20x10 running 285/35/20 tires all around. Offset is around ET32 and I recently had N2itive lower links (set to -5) and rear camber arms installed on my MSP on the day I mounted the wheels. My alignment shop set my rear camber to -1.80, well off N2itive's recommendation of between -0.75 to -0.85 because they assess at those numbers my rear tires will impact the fenders.

Jamie at Signature believes based on pics I've sent him that I shouldn't have rubbing issues. N2itive tells me that at -1.80 I will still experience premature inner tire wear on the rear tires and suggested -1.0 at a minimum if we can get there to extend tire life at least a little more than what I'll see at -1.80.

I'm considering abandoning the lowering links all together (never wanted to lower the car in the first place and only did it to mitigate against the half-shaft issue). I figure I'll just fight Tesla repeatedly on the half-shafts if they end up needing to be replaced and deal with the more immediate issue of c/a $2k per year in tires based on my average 20k miles driven per year. I'm stuck in analysis paralysis on a decision at this point.
 
Yeah it's crazy to think how much a few degree of camber affects fitment. I think everyone's ideal wheel fitment for 'flush' fitment specs is based on the car having -2* ish of camber which makes sense for most stock applications. But when the camber is reduced with aftermarket arms the fitment is less than ideal and now you went from flush to poke. So I'd just suggest anyone in the future who's is trying to find wheel specs consider if you want/will install camber/toe arms to reduce camber & inner tire wear because that's going to impact how you choose your wheel offset, width & tires.
 
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