Signature warranty expires soon - next steps?

[Sairaph]

Guys, any suggestion? My 8-year warranty expires Nov 23rd and I'm anxious about the costs of repairing the vehicle if the battery is bricked. I can almost 100% guarantee that the car will be totaled by my insurance if the battery needs to replaced but the only way we even get there is catastrophic loss by a sudden, uncontrollable event (like, say, running over something on the highway that somehow punctures it and destroys the battery) as the battery is considered mechanical and thus normal wear-and-tear is not covered.

So here I am, NOT in the financial position I was when I first got the car nor having >$20K stacked away to suddenly replace a dead battery. Any suggestions on future plans?

My concerns with the car currently:

• Lower charge rates (90kW)
  
• Lowered max capacity (~265mi rated, ~240mi max current charge)

Ideally I'd still own a Tesla but have max range (P85 here so I don't need to speed around, which means next vehicle has higher range but lowered acceleration).

I'd love to hear from the collective wisdom.

 

[AMPd]

Look into X-Care 3rd party warranty, maybe they’ll have an option for you that fits your budget and gives you peace of mind.

 

[Bridor]

Sell it and get a brand new Model Y - it is my favorite Tesla after having driven all of them (except the Roadster).

Brent

 

[Chaserr]

which means next vehicle has higher range but lowered acceleration).

I'm in the same situation and believe it or not the base Model S is faster than your P85 for a lot less money!

 

[ucmndd]

Drive it 'til it dies, sock away what you'd spend on a payment for a new car in the interim, then sell it off as a parts car.

 

[Sairaph]

Terms & Conditions - Xcelerate Auto

 

[AustinP]

Is it your original battery?

 

[Sairaph]

Is it your original battery?

I don't know. I'm at least the 2nd owner and while I was leasing it I know the battery was not replaced.

 

[AustinP]

You could take a picture of the label on the pack? It’s visible from the right front wheel well.
That could give a clue if it is more recent.

 

[Sairaph]

85kWh, 400VDC

Part #:
1038596-01-A

Serial:
T12J0000788R1

 

[random155]

I'll be in this situation in about 2 years. How many miles on it, how reliable has the car been? I agree that dumping $20k into a pretty old car is not a wise choice. I can't believe Tesla hasnt been able to get these replacement batteries down to the cost of an engine replacement. They are basically going to be throw away cars in the future.

 

[AustinP]

So according to this Maximum battery charge level reduced, it is the original battery from 2012.
Limited to 90kW, which seems to be key to its longevity.
There is a good chance it will be good beyond the warranty.
Looking at the threads about battery replacement, it’s often the newer from 2013, which allowed 120kW SuC that fail.
Another factor is mileage.
How many miles do you have?

That being said, if you are not financially in a good place to pay for a replacement (20k ?), you might want to sell it while it is still ok.

 

[AustinP]

I can't believe Tesla hasnt been able to get these replacement batteries down to the cost of an engine replacement. They are basically going to be throw away cars in the future.

Absolutely.
With the first cars coming out of the 8 years warranty, it makes sense to me that Tesla proposes a « new » replacement battery option to those owners, providing better capacity, SuC speed and lower price.
It would be silly to manufacture old tech batteries.
In the last year, some have received a new 85 pack that actually has the modules of the 100 pack but with couple of less modules to come at around 90kW. It disappeared from the catalog of spare parts. Crossing fingers a better one will come in its place.
Always the optimist in me.

 

[Chaserr]

They will eventually, but Battery Day just told us it's 2+ years away if Elon is right for once. Realistically, 5+ years if they look back at early S. Roadster owners had more post sale options than us and look at how they are treated now, this is how it will be for us until they have so much excess battery production they can start looking at supporting past sales again.

 

[SoCal Buzz]

IMO, a bricked battery is probably not main thing to worry about. You are getting decent charge now and car is 8 years old. What else has already been replaced / repaired (DC-DC Convertor, MCU, etc.)? If you want to reduce / manage risk, then sell it and lease or purchase a Model 3 / Y.

 

[shodnett]

I would be concerned about the drive unit failing as it wouldn't be covered under the warranty either.

 

[random155]

IMO, a bricked battery is probably not main thing to worry about. You are getting decent charge now and car is 8 years old. What else has already been replaced / repaired (DC-DC Convertor, MCU, etc.)? If you want to reduce / manage risk, then sell it and lease or purchase a Model 3 / Y.

The battery is by FAR the most expensive part to replace in these cars... and by contrast to an ICE engine (my opinion) they are less reliable. And by that I mean I feel that full battery replacements are more common than engine replacements (speaking of similar mileage and age ICE vehicle, respectively). So yes, it is and should be the MAIN thing to worry about. A DC/DC converter goes (2 or 3K?, MCU 1600?, battery 20K!!!!!). Obviously, its just my opinion.

 

[random155]

I would be concerned about the drive unit failing as it wouldn't be covered under the warranty either.

1/4 the price though

 

[ucmndd]

You have little to lose by riding it out until a big repair crops up. I realize that’s an unpopular opinion around here among a population that is extremely averse to the abject horror of owning a car out of warranty, but if you do what I suggested above and keep driving the car while socking away the payment you’d be applying to a new one, you’re extremely likely to come out ahead in the long run.

 

[Alysashley79]

So according to this Maximum battery charge level reduced, it is the original battery from 2012.
Limited to 90kW, which seems to be key to its longevity.

As a previous p85 owner the cars back then NEVER Super’d above 90kw. Elon promised higher but in my 4 years I owned mine it never happened.

To the OP if the car hadn’t given you any issues I’d drive it till it stops running then at the very least sell it for parts. They’re in high demand. if the car hasn’t been reliable I’d say trade it and buy a used Tesla from them. Gives you a warranty btb AND further battery warranty.