So, I did a 0 - 60 mph test on my 2021 MY LR AWD..

[FloridaSun]

Only got 5.1 seconds from 0 - 60..
SoC was only 53% but I doubt that this cost me .3 seconds?
I will try again with a higher SoC..
Car is set to HOLD.. Wonder if ROLL or CREEP affects 0 to 60 time?

 

[jjrandorin]

Your state of charge was only 53% so it is highly unlikely you went to go do this with a warm battery.

Note, just because its 70-80-90 or even 100 degrees outside, that does not make the battery warm if the car is just sitting there.

In order to get the full speed out of a tesla, the battery needs to be at full operating tempurature.

Note 2, Driving the car for 10-15 minutes to get to wherever you did the test does not usually bring the car to "full operating temperature" even if its "warm" outside.

If testing 0-60 and wanting to try to get the full speed, you not only need to have a higher state of charge than that, you need the battery to be fully warmed, which would mean taking it out directly after finishing charging it at home (not fully charged overnight, then sitting there), or Charging it at a supercharger then going to go test it.

Any other tests of 0-60 without having the battery being fully warmed will not generate specified speed.

 

[acarney]

Eh, I'm not so sure the battery temp had that much to do with it. A lot of the youtube guys and probably even people like Motortrend don't have the ability to just unplug and go, especially when you factor setting up filming and such. It's highly likely the car sits five or ten minutes before they punch it. The SOC certainly could be the issue though. The testing I've seen done is between 95% and 100%, though they often do four or five runs... still, that probably brings it into the 80s and not anywhere near 50%...

 

[jjrandorin]

Eh, I'm not so sure the battery temp had that much to do with it. A lot of the youtube guys and probably even people like Motortrend don't have the ability to just unplug and go, especially when you factor setting up filming and such. It's highly likely the car sits five or ten minutes before they punch it. The SOC certainly could be the issue though. The testing I've seen done is between 95% and 100%, though they often do four or five runs... still, that probably brings it into the 80s and not anywhere near 50%...

If you supercharge or take it directly from charging "soon" you will get the rated speed, or very close to it. Just like it takes the battery a while to warm up, it takes it a while to cool down, too.

Battery temp has a ton to do with not getting the rated speed. I remember reading a thread in the model 3 section about this, but dont feel like hunting it down. You will not get the rated speed unless the battery is fully "warm" and that temperature is a lot warmer than people think it is, and the outside temperature being "warm / hot" does not automatically make the battery the same.

 

[FloridaSun]

Your state of charge was only 53% so it is highly unlikely you went to go do this with a warm battery.

Note, just because its 70-80-90 or even 100 degrees outside, that does not make the battery warm if the car is just sitting there.

In order to get the full speed out of a tesla, the battery needs to be at full operating tempurature.

Note 2, Driving the car for 10-15 minutes to get to wherever you did the test does not usually bring the car to "full operating temperature" even if its "warm" outside.

If testing 0-60 and wanting to try to get the full speed, you not only need to have a higher state of charge than that, you need the battery to be fully warmed, which would mean taking it out directly after finishing charging it at home (not fully charged overnight, then sitting there), or Charging it at a supercharger then going to go test it.

Any other tests of 0-60 without having the battery being fully warmed will not generate specified speed.

Will try that.. Supercharging to like 85% and then make a little run.. Luckily, I live less than 5 miles from a V3 Supercharger..

 

[jjrandorin]

Will try that.. Supercharging to like 85% and then make a little run.. Luckily, I live less than 5 miles from a V3 Supercharger..

Try navigating to the supercharger from your home (to get the car to start pre conditioning), and going there when you have at max 50% charge, then charging to 80-90%, then leaving the supercharger, driving to "your spot" then giving it a run then.

Alternatively, if you have home charging (L2) you could run the car down to 50% or so, then plug in and charge from 50% to 90%, then pretty much as soon as its done, head out to "your spot" and give it a run.

The battery wont warm up (or cool down) immediately, but battery temperature definitely plays a part in extracting power out of the battery.

 

[52 16 57 39]

Yet another trick is to have 80-90ish percent SOC, then set your navigation/destination to a supercharger… the car will precondition the batteries (warm them up to accept electrons faster), but obviously don’t go there…

and viola - your batteries are warm - and you can accelerate quicker.

 

[MY-Y]

When it's warm out (70+), my acceleration-boosted MY doesn't need to be at a high SoC, nor have a hot battery to be very fast. Here is a 4.29 second 0-60 (no rollout) at a 32% charge and a 78 degree battery pack. With a very high SoC, it can run a 4.15 or so. Note: 4.15 with no rollout is ~3.95 with rollout.

A non-boosted MY should perform just 0.6 seconds slower.

 

[acarney]

When it's warm out (70+), my acceleration-boosted MY doesn't need to be at a high SoC, nor have a hot battery to be very fast. Here is a 4.29 second 0-60 (no rollout) at a 32% charge and a 78 degree battery pack. With a very high SoC, it can run a 4.15 or so. Note: 4.15 with no rollout is ~3.95 with rollout.

A non-boosted MY should perform just 0.6 seconds slower.
View attachment 676573

What app?

 

[MY-Y]

What app?

Scanmytesla with a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter and y-cable.

 

[FloridaSun]

Did another test today.. No pre-conditioning, just 78% SoC and I got the advertised 4.8 seconds..

 

[TIppy]

Using an internal app like scan my tesla can give incorrect results for acceleration. It's using the wheel sensors for its speed. There is a phenomenon known as tire slippage that causes the wheel speed to be higher than the vehicle speed, and the amount of slippage varies with acceleration. At max acceleration, just before the tires break free, there can be as much as 15 - 25 percent slippage. This means the wheel speed gets to 60 mph before the actual vehicle speed. Even during normal driving there is anywhere from 1 to 5 percent slippage. Also when you accelerate, weight shifts to the rear reducing the tire radius which causes the wheels to rotate faster at a given vehicle speed.

Another source of error is that scan my tesla doesn't know whether you are going up or down hill.

If you want accurate data, you need to use something like a draggy.

 

[FloridaSun]

Using an internal app like scan my tesla can give incorrect results for acceleration. It's using the wheel sensors for its speed. There is a phenomenon known as tire slippage that causes the wheel speed to be higher than the vehicle speed, and the amount of slippage varies with acceleration. At max acceleration, just before the tires break free, there can be as much as 15 - 25 percent slippage. This means the wheel speed gets to 60 mph before the actual vehicle speed. Even during normal driving there is anywhere from 1 to 5 percent slippage. Also when you accelerate, weight shifts to the rear reducing the tire radius which causes the wheels to rotate faster at a given vehicle speed.

Another source of error is that scan my tesla doesn't know whether you are going up or down hill.

If you want accurate data, you need to use something like a draggy.

already ordered the OBD2 wiring and bluetooth dongle.. Should be here tomorrow..

 

[DayTrippin]

Dragy is the way to go. Give you a lot of info about your run. You can set up custom speed ranges like 30-50, or 30-70, to focus on what matters to you. It shows the acceleration rate over your entire run as well. I just wish it was easier to export info. Basically there isn't any way other than a screenshot of your run.

 

[TIppy]

already ordered the OBD2 wiring and bluetooth dongle.. Should be here tomorrow..

That's just going to read the canbus and give you wheel speed. You need something that measures your vehicle speed, not the car's wheel speed. Dragy is the least expensive and is very accurate using gps.

 

[FloridaSun]

That's just going to read the canbus and give you wheel speed. You need something that measures your vehicle speed, not the car's wheel speed. Dragy is the least expensive and is very accurate using gps.

I'd think that your devices gps accuracy is the key to getting accurate acceleration times and not what app you are using. I use the drag racer app..

 

[TIppy]

I'd think that your devices gps accuracy is the key to getting accurate acceleration times and not what app you are using. I use the drag racer app..

That app seems to use the phone's gps which is not very accurate and typically only provide one reading per second. Devices like vbox and dragy use a single receiver differential gps which is orders of magnitude more accurate and provide 10 to 20 readings per second.

 

[MY-Y]

I've seen folks with scanmytesla and a Draggy and/or Vbox report the same 0-60 runs. I've never seen someone with both report different times. If someone on this thread that has both can share their experience, that'd be great.

For my use, scanmytesla works well. It verified the 0.6 second reduction when I bought the boost. It gives lots of other info from the canbus.

I agree that having the elevation data is important, especially for comparing different cars in different locations. As far as tire slippage, I don't think that's a factor at 60 MPH on an AWD car that isn't shifting gears.

 

[TIppy]

f someone on this thread that has both can share their experience, that'd be great.

Here's a quote from the scan my tesla thread:

Vendor - Scan My Tesla, a CANBUS reader for Android

The other way is to start with one of the standard tabs, then select and delete what you don't want, that could be faster. Right menu -> new tab -> select the Perf tab for instance. Then delete what you don't want. Also don't be afraid to delete tabs, to tidy up what you rarely use. You can...

teslamotorsclub.com

FYI, I carried out some speed testing today.
With the TACC set to 60mph (empty, straight, level road) and the Model 3's display showing 60mph the whole time, I was seeing 59.4mph (+/- 0.1 occasionally) on SMT.
I also had two other 10Hz motorsport data loggers (from different manufacturers) installed and both were consistently reading 58.6mph (+/- 0.1 occasionally).

I also tested at 50mph displayed and saw 49.5 on SMT and 48.8 on both data loggers.

So I'd say whatever method the Model 3 is using to measure velocity, it is exaggerated by just over 1 km/h at that sort of speed. Not much, but at 60mph the timing error will be in the order of 7/100 of a second if we accept the launch trigger is completely accurate.


This is without acceleration.

As far as tire slippage, I don't think that's a factor at 60 MPH on an AWD car that isn't shifting gears.

All tires under load experience slippage. This is different than when the tires break free. It's a sort of tread squirm. The higher the load the greater the slippage until a peak is reached and the tires break free.