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So That's Where They Hid the Model 3 Subwoofer...

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So is this what the wiring is doing, converting 2 ohm amp output into dual 4 ohm stock speaker? My box is already setup for 2 ohm, should I just go direct from amp?View attachment 354929
Hard to say for certain. In my estimation, the amp is either bridged internally (resulting in the setup you have depicted, also most likely IMO), or the sub’s DVCs are being run by 2 discrete (but identical) channels pumping roughly 80W each.
 
Dual voice coils are usually used to combine the right and left channels into a mono bass channel. One voice coil receives audio from the right channel and the other from the left. Along with a passive crossover for the subwoofer it is a cheap and effective to get audio information from both channels.
 
Dual voice coils are usually used to combine the right and left channels into a mono bass channel. One voice coil receives audio from the right channel and the other from the left. Along with a passive crossover for the subwoofer it is a cheap and effective to get audio information from both channels.
I don’t think that’s how it works, if the channels are not identical, the coils end up working against each other and in some cases can even damage the speaker.

I’ve never heard of a dvc speaker being hooked up this way, it would be a terribly inefficient way to do it.
 
I don’t think that’s how it works, if the channels are not identical, the coils end up working against each other and in some cases can even damage the speaker.
I’ve never heard of a dvc speaker being hooked up this way, it would be a terribly inefficient way to do it.

I used the stock amp to power an aftermarket dual 4-ohm voice coil slightly bigger sub now.
When hooking it up, I tried reversing the phase of one coil to see what it sounded like, and I basically got no sound then.
This seems to confirm your theory/statement that they likely send the same (mono) signal to both voice coils.
 
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So I had a mobile dent and paint repair guy out today to fix my wife's Model 3 right quarter panel scrape from a parking lot incident - the repair guy said he worked on another Model 3 yesterday in the same right quarter panel area, but that car was lacking the subwoofer in the right trunk void. Have they moved it in more recent builds (ours is early VIN 50XX range)?

He thought yesterday's car was a lower trim level, but I told him there's only one Premium interior package option right now. So then he said, I wonder why it wasn't there - ah, they must've moved it to the left side. I'd dismiss it as pure speculation, but he seemed to know that our subwoofer was on the right even before touching our car, so he's got some understanding of what's behind the fascias, whether by researching or hands-on work. Anyone seen their subwoofer on the left side of the trunk?

Pretty sure he was not confusing the other car yesterday with a Model S. For one, the quarter panel on the Model 3 is steel, whereas it's aluminum on the Model S, which matters to a dent puller - same guy fixed the right quarter panel on my S just two weeks ago. (Yes, people are literally hitting us left and right these days; well maybe just right it always seems to be...)

EDIT: As he was finishing, he mentioned he's been doing almost nothing but Model 3's of late, about seven in the past week. So definitely he's been around the insides of these cars....
 
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Wow. My guess would be a base model ("SR") model 3 prototype out in the wild.

Or someone at the factory had a really bad day and forgot to install the subwoofer in a car going down the line.
 
Hi All,

Could I please get the subwoofer wiring coloring scheme, specially from the harness colors polarity from the subwoofer amplifier. Thank you in advance.

I've already done searches however there are 2 table chart from R1fast and Travis. Not sure which on is correct though.

I'm planning powered 2 subwoofer in a box from the OEM subwoofer amp.
 
The clarity and sound quality of the premium system is the best I've ever heard in an OEM system, but I too am underwhelmed by the low end. In my previous car I had a 300W 10in subwoofer, and it was a hatch back, so no wonder.

Before I do anything drastic, has anyone tried just stuffing the box with polyfill? Looks like you could just shove it in the port and push it down around the woofer without even disconnecting anything. That's an old trick that can sometimes make small woofers and boxes sound bigger and hit harder than they normally would in free air. Only thing is if it didn't work well you'd have to take out the woofer to get it out, but at least it's 100% reversible.
 
Isn't Poly-fil just for enclosed sub boxes? Just curious.

Have a question: How much better is the sound system on the S than our LRs? And finally, this car has one of the best audio systems I've heard, and I've heard/owned many Harman Kardons, Revels, Meridians (the second best IMO), Burmesters, Mark Levinsons, etc. I only drove a 2020 MS-P once, but didn't scrutinize the audio system. It sounded very similar to the M3 LR IMO, but curious of the actual difference. Having said that, can't believe somebody compared it to a freaking Toyota; ha ha. Those, and Hondas, have the worst sound systems IMO.
 
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Have a question: How much better is the sound system on the S than our LRs? .

IMHO, the Model 3 Premium sound is better than the OLD Model S sound system(s).
*BUT* there is new Model S redesign now which talks about a new sound system for S.
So I think S is about to step up its' game and take that car into a new era.


One silly thing about the old S system was phone calls would play through door speakers and people outside the car would hear the other side of your phone call. The Model 3 did something different with dash speakers to avoid that problem.
 
any subwoofer replacement?...last recommended Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8, anyone tried it?

I recommend JL Audio 8W3v3 and pair it with a good amp.

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