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Software update. Next day Power reduced with Dl_w126 error code

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Mobile service replaced my 12v today, but the car is still wouldn't shift into D or R and is still throwing these errors:

DI_u014 Unable to drive Voltage supply too low
GTW_W157 - Power reduced Vehicle systems shutting down
GTW_W018 - Electrical system power reduced Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly

The technician then reinstalled my old 12v and it's getting an out-of-warranty $425 tow to the service center for an unspecified electrical system fault. I'm most suspicious of the fuse in the DC-DC converter. I don't think the fix(es) will be cheap. 😐

Before towing it to the SC, I spoke to 057 Tech to see if they do any diagnostics/service and they were very helpful (and would've replaced parts, if I had a definitive diagnosis).
 
Mobile service replaced my 12v today, but the car is still wouldn't shift into D or R and is still throwing these errors:

DI_u014 Unable to drive Voltage supply too low
GTW_W157 - Power reduced Vehicle systems shutting down
GTW_W018 - Electrical system power reduced Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly

The technician then reinstalled my old 12v and it's getting an out-of-warranty $425 tow to the service center for an unspecified electrical system fault. I'm most suspicious of the fuse in the DC-DC converter. I don't think the fix(es) will be cheap. 😐

Before towing it to the SC, I spoke to 057 Tech to see if they do any diagnostics/service and they were very helpful (and would've replaced parts, if I had a definitive diagnosis).
Very sorry to hear this. Obfuscated diagnostics suck. I suspect as the more-Teslas-needing-repair pendulum swings against Tesla it will get better. No help for us right now. Then asks for continuing to share.
 
How did “Thanks” morph into “then ask?”

I have been studying the DC to DC converter, fuses for same, and the removal and restoration of the unit. I do not relish going down that path, but will if I have to. I’ll make a video of the process. And share.
I also have 2013 Model S 85 - 72k miles. I haven't yet installed the update bc of the 2 posts from similar aged cars. I wanted to relate my story to see if it give ideas, but you guys probably already know all of this. I had a coolant leak over a year ago that eventually led to a 4 way coolant valve replacement. And last winter I kept getting 12V battery needs to be replaced (not driving much during shutdowns) that went away when I did the reboots associated w/ putting on snow tires (rim reset). All that is background info. This spring I drove to a town about 100 miles away, spent the day driving around the town, no problems at all, and then went to a supercharger before the trip home. As soon as I plugged into the supercharger, I started getting lots of error messages like the ones you are describing (they went so fast, I didn't get them all written down). I was sure it was the 12v battery re-rearing its ugly head and it was a Sunday afternoon so I had the car towed home (w/ all of the towing issues described above when you have no power ..) Tesla reviewed the diagnostics that they had from before the totally dead 12v and said that it looked like I needed a new rear drive unit. I said that made no sense so got the ranger to come and do a 12v battery replacement. He was very helpful, but even with the new 12v the car would not allow the car to charge (same as your description) and it didn't give the service center any new diagnostics to change their opinion, so we unconnected the 12v to keep it from totally dying. So even though I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the drive unit replacement cost, I had it towed the 200 miles to the service center. After a lot diagnostics digging they finally decided the real issue was that they needed to replace the battery coolant heater (and replace the brand new 12v also). This made much more sense to me (sorta) because I assume that's all a part of the process of making sure the battery is warm enough for the supercharging. What I THINK I learned out of this whole escapade is that apparently whenever the car senses anything wrong w/ the highpower battery system, it sorta shuts everything down to avoid injuring someone and in the process throws all of those errors you listed. But it seems to me that something totally random, like a software update or plugging into a supercharger, can make the car discover that it thinks something is wrong w/ the system. I'd like to hear results from both of the problem cases here, but I'm guessing it's not a converter issue. Good Luck!
 
According to the service center, my DCDC is doing "some really weird things." They have checked all the HV fuses and connections which all look good so they want $2456 for a DCDC converter which is being shipped in from another service center. Originally they said it was outputting 13.4V but when the car is powered on, the voltage drops too low for proper support.

Personally I'm concerned there's some extremely high load on the 12v system which the DCDC can't overcome. If they replace the DCDC and it still won't run, they won't/can't charge me for the DCDC, right? The car has been at the SC for almost a week and I really need it back before this weekend.
 
Drove 30 miles today and the car died. Quit delivering power on a flat area and I was able to pull off the freeway. Placed it in park, sat for a while, drove away. 3 miles later (and 7 from home) it quit again. This time several flashing warnings: reduced power, may quit unexpectedly, may not start. Called Tesla and they suggested a towing company. Hour later when the flatbed tow truck arrived, my main screen went black (no raising the car, no shift to neutral, no tow mode). Attempted to jump start with his portable battery. Tesla service advised leaving the jumper connected for 20-30 minutes to wake the system. Driver carefully drug it up on the ramp. Sprayed the pavement with WD40 as I could not release the parking brake. Worked like a charm.

Got it home, put the 12 volt charger on the small battery, revived the cpu. Charge cable opens the charge port but no unlock or blinking welcome light.

Alert says battery too low to drive, but shows 129 miles of charge.

Active alerts on screen:
BMS f070
GTW w018
BMS w026
BMS w035
BMS w070
BMS w071

I also had the 12 volt battery replaced by Tesla last year.

My guess is the update affected the DC charge link to the 12v battery. Or it identified an existing flaw? I doubt new software could tease out any new or more detailed information from an older system so I’d wager it is a random flaw we discovered. ;)

I do hate being out of warranty as it puts us low on the totem pole for solutions.
Out of warranty could work two ways, IF Tesla gives a rat's rear then they'd make an extra effort to let people know that one won't be abandoned when one's car gets old.
Hoping, my car is about to
 
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Tesla Ranger was here today and diagnosed a bad brick in my big battery pack. Estimate for a replacement 90 battery (as they don’t make 85’s) was around $15,000 not including bits, discoveries, and a $1,000+ tow to the service center in Texas.

I contacted Electrified Garage on the east coast and they quoted $3,500 if it was indeed just one bad brick. I wonder if there is a shop on the west coast that could do the work. Any recommendations?

The Tesla ranger was very nice, even phoned his boss to see if he could share the diagnostics with me. Boss said no, it is proprietary.
 
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Tesla Ranger was here today and diagnosed a bad brick in my big battery pack. Estimate for a replacement 90 battery (as they don’t make 85’s) was around $15,000 not including bits, discoveries, and a $1,000+ tow to the service center in Texas.

I contacted Electrified Garage on the east coast and they quoted $3,500 if it was indeed just one bad brick. I wonder if there is a shop on the west coast that could do the work. Any recommendations?

The Tesla ranger was very nice, even phoned his boss to see if he could share the diagnostics with me. Boss said no, it is proprietary.

When one goes, more are soon to follow.
 
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Tesla Ranger was here today and diagnosed a bad brick in my big battery pack. Estimate for a replacement 90 battery (as they don’t make 85’s) was around $15,000 not including bits, discoveries, and a $1,000+ tow to the service center in Texas.

I contacted Electrified Garage on the east coast and they quoted $3,500 if it was indeed just one bad brick. I wonder if there is a shop on the west coast that could do the work. Any recommendations?

The Tesla ranger was very nice, even phoned his boss to see if he could share the diagnostics with me. Boss said no, it is proprietary.
Did the Ranger give any hint on whether the a) software updated caused the bad brick (unlikely?) b) the software update has some new capability that exposed the existence of the bad brick or caused a different system response c) coincidence?
 
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