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Solar panels charging 3 while camping?

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If you can output the victorn to less than 22v and 30amp, you could hook up your controller into the yeti with the Anderson connector. You get a safer and more control option by going through the link. The mppt on the yeti gives you an extra 10% easily. I use my tesla to charge the yeti at 5 amps if I am not in a hurry. I also have their home connection kit for backup. I have a 100w panel, I definitely recommend 200 or more.
 

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I love this car as much as anyone, but there's no way I'm going camping off the grid with a Tesla, Sentry mode, and a refrigerator. Do you need milk with your cereal? You do not need refrigeration to camp. If you do, rent an RV.
This is a form of hybrid camping that seems way too stressful to enjoy. Some people would start a forest fire while attempting to pull this off. Top off the car at the supercharger 1.5 hours away then drive to the campsite. Then camp.
 
I used to take my Leaf for camping and plug it at the campground while I hike/trek & do the stuff at the campground-since not driving 120v is plenty.

While on a trip from central CA to Oregon a couple of years ago, we pulled into our hotel and started to plug into their non-Tesla charger. Knowing that they had chargers, we weren’t worried about coming in without much reserve charge. However, my wife forgot to put her adapter in the car. The hotel had no120v outside. I went to the gas station next door and they were kind enough to let me plug into their 120v outlet. Unfortunately, we blew their circuit breaker repeatedly during the night. They unplugged me at 6:30am. The nearest Supercharger was 60 miles north. I got on the freeway and drafted a Semi-truck at 55mph and made it to the charger (and Starbucks). LOL
 
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If you can output the victorn to less than 22v and 30amp, you could hook up your controller into the yeti with the Anderson connector. You get a safer and more control option by going through the link. The mppt on the yeti gives you an extra 10% easily. I use my tesla to charge the yeti at 5 amps if I am not in a hurry. I also have their home connection kit for backup. I have a 100w panel, I definitely recommend 200 or more.

You don't want to be going through two daisy-chained automatic charge controllers. As your photo shows, the Yeti controller expects 14-22 volts. The Victron expects to be connected to a lead-acid battery and it will regulate the voltage to suit standard lead-acid charge profiles. I have no idea how the automatic output of the Victron would be regulated (what the output would be) if it was hooked up to the input of the Yeti charge controller. That's not what it's "expecting" to see.

If it worked at all, it would be far from ideal in that your charge efficiency would be terrible going through two charge controllers.
 
I love this car as much as anyone, but there's no way I'm going camping off the grid with a Tesla, Sentry mode, and a refrigerator. Do you need milk with your cereal? You do not need refrigeration to camp. If you do, rent an RV.

I agree. And if you want milk, you can buy delicious single-serving milk cartons that don't require refrigeration.
 
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You don't want to be going through two daisy-chained automatic charge controllers. As your photo shows, the Yeti controller expects 14-22 volts. The Victron expects to be connected to a lead-acid battery and it will regulate the voltage to suit standard lead-acid charge profiles. I have no idea how the automatic output of the Victron would be regulated (what the output would be) if it was hooked up to the input of the Yeti charge controller. That's not what it's "expecting" to see.

If it worked at all, it would be far from ideal in that your charge efficiency would be terrible going through two charge controllers.

You can adjust the victron output through their app. You could also have it go through the MPPT input at the top (custom wiring), but you will lose the input wattage display as it doesn't have the USB cable. If you buy the Victron from Goalzero, they tell you to go through another battery via the link. I guess it's just another way to ensure safety so you are not charging the Yeti directly.
 
I don't think anyone has mentioned the idea of connecting directly to the car's 12v lead acid battery. It wouldn't charge the traction battery, but it would offset the sentry mode / vampire drain. Basically just a solar powered battery tender. If you google "200 watt solar panel charge 12v lead acid battery" you'll get results for some kits intended for charging 12v lead acid batteries with solar panels (I saw one that was 200watts). However, I think this would only offset the sentry mode while the sun is shining. You'll still lose charge at night. I also can't guarantee nothing bad will happen.
 
My biggest problem with the goal zero "boulder panels" is that they're not the most efficient design.The boulder 200 panel is not particularly efficient at 2160 in^2 for 200 watts of power.

I don't think you're thinking about this properly, especially since your idea to avoid the less efficient panels is to wire the output from the slightly more efficient panels through a less efficient path for charging. That makes no sense! The Boulder panels are more efficient than you give them credit for!

The Boulder 200 panels are more efficient per sq. in. then the manufacturer's size specs might indicate because these are panels that have been inserted into a "suitcase frame". There is a frame with corner protectors for impact resistance and suitcase handle hardware that sticks out past the actual solar cell itself. The manufacturer includes this hardware in the dimensions. Also, because of the suitcase design, it's actually two 100W panels so it's unfair to compare it to a 200W panel that cannot be folded. While you can find more efficient panels advertised, the devil is in the details. I've found the Boulder panels to be very conservatively rated. I mean, I've actually got more than 215 watts out of the 2 100-watt panels on multiple occasions. And that's up here almost to latitude 49 degrees N.

One other point, even including the ruggedized hardware, the Boulder 200 is not 2160 sq. in., it's 2140 sq. in. (according to the manufacturer's specs and my own measurement). Measuring just the aluminum frame of the panels (and not counting the hinges, ruggedized corners and handle hardware) the dimensions of the frame is even smaller, 26" x 39.5" (x2). These are the dimensions that should be used when comparing to other panels without the suitcase feature (because the corners, handle and hinges can be removed). So each 100W panel is 1027 in^2 (2054 in^2 for two 100W panels). While you can find panels more efficient, I'm not sure it's a big deal if they are a couple of inches smaller, especially not if their ratings are not as conservative. The Boulder panels do have a rather large margin around the active area of the cells before the edge of the glass panel and I suspect this margin, combined with your unequal size comparison, is what contributes to most of the difference you noted.

And, yes, the Boulder panels are more expensive per watt than residential roof panels. That's because they are 100-watt panels that have been ruggedized and have had hinges, a handle and a kickstand added for portable use. They also come pre-wired together and with a 6' lead with Anderson connector (and a protective zippered dust case). Smaller panels like these will cost more per watt and for portable usage, I would not go larger than 100-watt panels.

It does seem you are trying to solve a problem that's not even a problem. I hope this helps.
 
If you can output the victorn to less than 22v and 30amp, you could hook up your controller into the yeti with the Anderson connector. You get a safer and more control option by going through the link. The mppt on the yeti gives you an extra 10% easily. I use my tesla to charge the yeti at 5 amps if I am not in a hurry. I also have their home connection kit for backup. I have a 100w panel, I definitely recommend 200 or more.

What is the maximum number of watts you have seen your 100-watt panel produce?
 
Serious question, why don't we use small/portable nuclear power sources for vehicles? I've read about these being used in isolated Russian buildings (I.e. Lighthouses) years ago and we had them in satellites since the 60-70's. I guess they would cause a slight problem during a collision, or you may end up glowing after a long drive, but has the technology not evolved in the last 50 years to make it safer?

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The cost of the nuclear reactor, even a small one will far exceed the cost of the battery. I'm not too familiar with the RTG, but wikipedia says a few hundred watts only.

The military is exploring the use of portable nuclear reactors + EVs in combat zones. They love nuclear.
 
I don't think anyone has mentioned the idea of connecting directly to the car's 12v lead acid battery. It wouldn't charge the traction battery, but it would offset the sentry mode / vampire drain. Basically just a solar powered battery tender. If you google "200 watt solar panel charge 12v lead acid battery" you'll get results for some kits intended for charging 12v lead acid batteries with solar panels (I saw one that was 200watts). However, I think this would only offset the sentry mode while the sun is shining. You'll still lose charge at night. I also can't guarantee nothing bad will happen.

Maybe hook up an inverter to the 12V battery and charge the car from its own 12v battery while at the same time charging that........

It only risks depleting your battery 100%.

Better to have a separate battery for storing the charge. Then, besides an inverter, all you need is a microcontroller to turn on/on AC power based off the charge state of the battery.
 
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Woh, I haven’t been getting email notifications for this thread and just now saw all the responses. I don’t have time to digest the technical details at the moment, but I would like to clarify a few things.

1. I plan on using a 12v small freezer. Aplicool c15 for example ($179). It’s job will be to refreeze water bottles as needed and then those water bottles go in a RTIC 45 cooler.
2. Having to purchase another battery for this setup is a deal breaker for me, so although very interesting, and I appreciate the feedback, I’m not interested in going that route.
3. Not increasing used cargo space is important, so 4 3’x5’x1” solar panels won’t work, nor will it fit in the trunk. The solution would need to fit in the trunk and not take up a lot of space. Thin flexible solar panels could work given enough of them spread out in a large area, assuming I could use a inverter/controller directly with the portable tesla charger.
4. I would be willing to spend up to $1,000 for this solution.

Overall, this sounds challenging and unlikely a clean solution. That answer is what I was mostly after in terms of feedback. I guess I’ll just have to wait for the cybertruck with a solar cover :)
 
You may be on the wrong forum. We installed a house stereo in
a guys car with a inverter (12vdc to 120ac). It was about 120w per channel. He did end up
putting 3 more 12v batteries for longer off road trips. The RV guys do all kinds of systems,
solar. sat, cooling systems, freezers and so on most 12vdv based. Then it is simple math
and cost. I do like the nuke option, can you get this at home depot?
I think it's called Mr. Fusion.