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Solarglass Roof - V3 - any customers?

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@woferry. Did they replace or cover your roof stack vents and other protrusions? The brochure that came with the quote showed some cool looking vents, but I did not know if these were included, and if they were just covers of the existing pipes that run through the roof or they redo the stack pipes from the inside.

Yes, all of the flashing covers were replaced (and any exposed vent pipes painted to match), and look really nice and are included. I have a whole album of my install in my signature with a fair number of close-up shots, BTW. :) The last few shots before the time lapses include shots of the finished flashing covers & vent pipes.
 
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Thank you! I will email the advisor on a despot return if solar doesn't make sense. Still trying to read more about it. Also, this is out of my price range if ROI is low as I want to get a Cybertruck too :)

My wife and I drive about 20k to 25k miles a year. We charge after 10pm which is .12 to .13 cents per khw. Home is efficient which we hardly have to run the AC, and before Teslas our bill was around $25 per month for electricity.

This is obviously a very personal decision, but lemme make a couple points in favor of solar/powerwalls for a minute:

If you drive 25K miles/year for 12 cents a kWh in a Model 3, that's about $750/yr in "gas cost". So not too bad at all. However, its quite possible that cost will go up in the near future. For us in PG&E territory, off-peak EV charging was less than 9 cents 10 year ago, and is currently clocking in at 14.6 cents/kWh and continually rising. With solar you can potentially "lock in" your energy cost for EV charging.

A $12K asphalt roof vs a Solarglass roof is not exactly an apples-to-apples compare. The Solarglass is more like a premium metal roof in terms of looks and longevity, and will probably last 2X to 3X as long as an asphalt roof. For cost savings, you could also go with asphalt roof + separate solar panels, which Tesla is selling these days for <$2 per kW (so $20K before tax rebate for 10kW which is probably all you would need).

Lastly, Powerwalls are amazing for those of us living in California. The energy regulators keep monkeying with energy prices and shifting around what time of day the cheap energy is available, and of course we get to look forward to around 10 years of Public Safety Power Shut-offs as the grid gets modernized. 2 Powerwalls plus a $15K after tax rebate 10kW solar array on an asphalt roof is a pretty amazing deal / quality of life improvement for CA homeowners.
 
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roof in terms of looks and longevity, and will probably last 2X to 3X as long as an asphalt roof. For cost savings, you could also go with asphalt roof + separate solar panels, which Tesla is selling these days for <$2 per kW (so $20K before tax rebate for 10kW which is probably all you would need).

Lastly, Powerwalls are amazing for those of us living in California. The energy regulators keep monkeying with energy prices and shifting around what time of day the cheap energy is available, and of course we get to look forward to around 10 years of Public Safety Power Shut-offs as the grid gets modernized. 2 Powerwalls plus a $15K after tax rebate 10kW solar array on an asphalt roof is a pretty amazing deal / quality of life improvement for CA homeowners.

Agree.

Tesla has been quite careful to point out the Solarglass roof only makes sense if you have a tile roof that needs replacing and are adding solar. So when comparing you have the price a new tile roof + solar. If you have an asphalt roof consider just adding solar panels.

For my house I have quotes for a tile roof + solar that is near $60,000 (9.6Kw). My Solarglass roof (12Kw) plus 2 powerwalls will run $75,000. The tile roof + solar price does not include 2 Powerwalls. So we are paying about $15,000 for and additional 2+Kw, two powerwalls and all the associated rewiring.

This difference seems reasonable from the prices my friends are getting for adding 2-3 powerwalls to their existing solar. One person has a quote for near $27,000 for 3 powerwalls because of the complexity of the installation (pool pumps, multiple A/C compressors, waterfall, etc.). But since he works from home often, he figures the power being out costs him well over $1500/day in billable work and customer issues. He had nearly 6 days of PSPS outage this past fall.
 
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Thanks everyone!

Not sure if I added this info but one thing I do need is a new roof. My current wooden singles are over 40 years old. If I change to Asphalt, it will only last 20 years, but I don’t think I will live here for over 20 years though.

I haven’t discussed financial with the advisor, but I think for a $52k system is probably $400 loan per month for 10 years with incentives.

Running the cost without the roof added in seems like I have to use $250ish in electricity to break even. I’m still on the fence, but I will reach out to the sale advisor for some advice and loan info.
 
Thanks everyone!

Not sure if I added this info but one thing I do need is a new roof. My current wooden singles are over 40 years old. If I change to Asphalt, it will only last 20 years, but I don’t think I will live here for over 20 years though.

I haven’t discussed financial with the advisor, but I think for a $52k system is probably $400 loan per month for 10 years with incentives.

Running the cost without the roof added in seems like I have to use $250ish in electricity to break even. I’m still on the fence, but I will reach out to the sale advisor for some advice and loan info.

If you're not going to be in your house for a while, don't have anxiety over increasing rates and possible shutoffs, and only look at the payback time, I don't think you should necessarily spring for it. Better to have the Cybertruck :)
 
If that electric bill is based on charging your two Tesla and house, I just don't see how it would make sense to spend that kind of $$$ on any solar.
If you have excess electricity at end of your trueup, you won't get much for it. At PG&E, you are lucky to get what they pay for electricity wholesale.
Just think, you dump all that $$$ up front and get roughly $1100 back, like 40 years. About 2.5% on the cheapest side and less as price goes up. Even with that truck, you will not be driving all three at the same time but swapping total driven miles between two vehicles.
 
So, from just the first face-to-face with a real honest to good tesla employee I was delighted. Carlos showed up, and was cordial and professional throughout the site inspection>.
Now if I was going to inspect my breaker box I'd just flip the kill switch above the box, and then have to reset everything like the oven clock later. I think the oven clock is the only thing that doesn't auto-reset now?
But Carlos had to get his equipment bag because Tesla doesn't want to bother you or me, or my wife or kids, or in particularly the dogs sleeping on the sofa, so he would not think of flipping the whole house power off. And instead he went to this extent (or should I write, Tesla made/trained him to suit up to the 9's) before he attempted to take the panel off the breaker box.
 
Can I temporarily hijack, or change the direction of this thread?

Looking at moving, new house is actually old and has a 27 year old asphalt shingle roof. Clearly needs to be replaced. Meanwhile, where I live electricity is VERY cheap, so there's just no way the $ are going to work out advantageous to solar. So I am considering limiting my solar, mostly going for charging the car and maybe limited backup. There is a smaller section with a low pitch roof. I am considering solar on that section.
1. Can anyone remind me or point me to the resource where I can measure L x W x efficiency of panel x latitude x pitch = approximation of solar production. EDIT: PVWatts Calculator OK, accurate?
2. Are the solartiles as installed in and of themselves water proof, for low pitch roof? Or are they an onlay and need something under them to provide the water proof layer?
 
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Can I temporarily hijack, or change the direction of this thread?

Looking at moving, new house is actually old and has a 27 year old asphalt shingle roof. Clearly needs to be replaced. Meanwhile, where I live electricity is VERY cheap, so there's just no way the $ are going to work out advantageous to solar. So I am considering limiting my solar, mostly going for charging the car and maybe limited backup. There is a smaller section with a low pitch roof. I am considering solar on that section.
1. Can anyone remind me or point me to the resource where I can measure L x W x efficiency of panel x latitude x pitch = approximation of solar production. EDIT: PVWatts Calculator OK, accurate?
2. Are the solartiles as installed in and of themselves water proof, for low pitch roof? Or are they an onlay and need something under them to provide the water proof layer?

There is a waterproof membrane installed under the solarglass roof. But the tiles themselves are also waterproof. But they are expensive and even in high electricity price areas only being installed on homes with large ceramic or cement tile roofs. Also their electrical yield per area is less than conventional panels. For a small solar array you might be better with a new asphalt shingle roof and conventional panels.
 
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Can I temporarily hijack, or change the direction of this thread?

Looking at moving, new house is actually old and has a 27 year old asphalt shingle roof. Clearly needs to be replaced. Meanwhile, where I live electricity is VERY cheap, so there's just no way the $ are going to work out advantageous to solar. So I am considering limiting my solar, mostly going for charging the car and maybe limited backup. There is a smaller section with a low pitch roof. I am considering solar on that section.
1. Can anyone remind me or point me to the resource where I can measure L x W x efficiency of panel x latitude x pitch = approximation of solar production. EDIT: PVWatts Calculator OK, accurate?
2. Are the solartiles as installed in and of themselves water proof, for low pitch roof? Or are they an onlay and need something under them to provide the water proof layer?

What I've seen for V3 says the supported roof pitch range is 2:12 to 12:12. Each SR60T1 (14 cell, textured glass) PV Module is 430mm X 1140mm (~1' 5" X 3' 9", ~5.28 sqft) and the PMax is 58.47W (10.99V @ 5.32A). The module would take up a bit less than 5.28 sqft on the roof since there's some overlap between the rows of modules (the actual active area of the PV module isn't the full module dimension). I found PVWatts to be quite accurate for my V2 roof, all it really cares about is the total PMax and the orientation & pitch (and your location, of course). I would imagine the tricks Tesla plays to limit the cell visibility on off angles (i.e. from the ground) also hurts production if the sun is on an extreme angle, but that should only be a little bit at sunrise/sunset typically.

As jboy210 said, the tiles themselves are designed to shed water, there are sidelaps alongside each module that bridges the side gaps, as well as a vertical overlap for each row of modules. The tops of the tiles also has a lip / rubber seal (at least in V2, I haven't seen a good enough shot of V3 to be sure it's still there). But the roof deck underneath is covered in a double-thick layer of an underlayment (pretty sure they still use Firestone CLAD-GARD SA-FR), which would help protect the decking even if some water did get in.
 
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... But the roof deck underneath is covered in a double-thick layer of an underlayment (pretty sure they still use Firestone CLAD-GARD SA-FR), which would help protect the decking even if some water did get in.

When we had our site inspection I asked the guy from Tesla about waterproofing since they are looking to get started soon. He did not tell me what they used, but said it would protect from water if it did rain while they were installing the tiles. Thanks for providing the product name so I can look up some specs!
 
@woferry My advisor confirmed the project will start Wednesday this week. I was just taking a look at all the pictures and info for you V2 install - very helpful so thanks for posting them. Good call on the sprinklers, etc. We have a no-mow front lawn so I'll be sure to flag all the sprinkler heads and also ask them to be careful about debris in the vents. One question: Did they reuse some of your existing gutters or replace them completely?
 
Thanks, I'll have to ask my co-worker if they're still on-track for Wednesday. I had no gutters before the new roof, so there was nothing to reuse in my case. I had the impression it would be replaced not reused, but it should also be a line-item on your invoice, I wouldn't expect it to be free/included. So if there's no call-out for gutters maybe they do now try to install over existing gutters, but not sure.

And thanks for the tip on no-mow, hadn't heard that particular term before. I'm sooo tired of my lawns (front and back), not just from mowing but from watering as well. I do need to start looking at alternatives. My front yard is currently being dug-up for the water service line (broke during the holidays) and sewer line replacement (what I thought was closer to needing replaced), then I hope to get a Geothermal Heat Pump added (so more digging).
 
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@woferry My advisor confirmed the project will start Wednesday this week. I was just taking a look at all the pictures and info for you V2 install - very helpful so thanks for posting them. Good call on the sprinklers, etc. We have a no-mow front lawn so I'll be sure to flag all the sprinkler heads and also ask them to be careful about debris in the vents. One question: Did they reuse some of your existing gutters or replace them completely?

We just had our onsite inspection. We are having the gutters replaced as part of the solarglass roof install. The guy said it would be an extra charge item. However, it was our choice to have the gutters replaced since they do leak a bit. I gathered they do not normally replace them.
 
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FYI I was reading the fine print on my agreement and gutters are a line item with a zero cost. The gutter line item footnote says, "Standard Gutter installation includes materials and installation from a Tesla approved sub-contractor. Custom materials or finishes can be added via contract amendment." I assume they are included but will verify with a coordinator tomorrow.
 
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FYI I was reading the fine print on my agreement and gutters are a line item with a zero cost. The gutter line item footnote says, "Standard Gutter installation includes materials and installation from a Tesla approved sub-contractor. Custom materials or finishes can be added via contract amendment." I assume they are included but will verify with a coordinator tomorrow.

Going to go double check my contract. Thanks!
 
woferry’s coworker here! We’re on track to start Thursday. Got bumped a day due to scheduling issues with the crew. Apparently there’s an east coast crew in NY. They’re flying out to do my roof since weather is holding them up on projects back there.

I wonder if it is a team from the Buffalo GigaFactory 2 where they make the roof tiles.
 
Hi, @egaertner, didn't realize you had an account here! :) Wow, that's really nice if they're including gutters now, it was a $3200 line item on my project. When I bought the house the inspector noted that there weren't any, and I got $1k off the negotiated price for lack of gutters, then went the next 15 years without adding any. :p While I did get some free garden watering without them (the rose garden in my back yard isn't doing nearly as well now) it also meant having constant tiny roof stones (coming off the old shingles) surrounding the house, coming in on people's feet, etc. So it's been nice to finally be rid of that for both reasons (no longer stones on the roof, and gutters to collect/divert everything now).

I suspect it's just a regular install team, they've been doing roofs in the NY/NJ area also. Seems like they've had crews out doing install training at the Fremont facility also.