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Solutions to get around the garage door?

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Hi all,

I have an outlet inside my garage for charging, but due to the size of our garage, we aren't able to park anything inside it. As a result, I'd like to use the inside outlet and have the cable reach out to charge the car in the driveway. I don't know the dimensions of the "charge cable" portion but I figure that the opening needs to be at least that large in order for it to go out for charging and in when not in use. Likewise, I can't have a large hole on the side of the house and would ideally like this to be covered when not in use and "close up" on the wire itself as that's a much smaller diameter.

I've seen some suggestions to halve a piece of small PVC pipe to protect the wire from the garage door, but I don't think I want to do this as a long-term solution. I'm hoping one of these would do the trick, which appears to be really designed for furniture and such. I was hoping someone else had another experience and could point me in the right direction.

(Again, while I *could* install an exterior outlet, I was thinking by keeping the MC inside and the plug itself inside, I could leave it connected all the time to reduce wear and tear on the outlet and MC/Adapters, and it would probably be better long-term if the MC was indoors as well. I get that it's outdoor rated, but it does caution against using it in heavier storms.)

IMG_4203.JPG IMG_4200.JPG IMG_4199.JPG IMG_4202.JPG IMG_4206.JPG IMG_4207.JPG

Image descriptions: First 4 are things I saw in my local hardware store with the idea i Was going for. I like the first one because it will form back to the size of the wire once the beefier part of the charge cable is passed through.

I will hope to find this in some kind of circular pattern like the fourth picture in the circle. I am planning to use something like a 2" hole saw - if it lets the charger through - and put some type of white PVC "elbow" between the wood that I've shown in pictures 5 and 6. The goal would be that it's weatherproof and enclosed when not in use, and I could keep my MC inside the garage for charging.

In Photo #5, I would put the 2" hole saw hole through the white wooden trim of the garage frame. I would then join up to it on a 90 degree from inside the garage going outward towards the street until the two holes met. This would hopefully be enough to take care of things.

From here, I'd either consider using the Tesla Cable Organizer on the brick portion outside the garage door (with a Tapcon screw and silicone caulk) or inside as well.

Thanks for your suggestions and tips. And dimensions of the charging "tip" if you have it. If the charger is as long as I'm thinking, I may have to go with more of a 45 degree angle approach in a single straight line through the frame into the garage instead of two holes that join to a 90.
 
I'd consider that, except I'd have to rewire the circuit to make that happen. I'd either have to have them dig a trench in the floor of the garage and then cover it up with cement/epoxy, or run along the wall, ceiling, and down the other wall, in order to mount it there. The ceiling in the garage is around 9-10 feet tall, and about 15 feet wide. That adds another 25+ feet of wiring.

I'll try to describe the layout: the electrical panel is in the basement in the southwest corner of the house. The garage and driveway are on the northwest corner of the house.

If I did plan for this, does it make sense to just run the hot-hot-ground for a HWC or should I have them run the neutral and cap it in the event I have to change this to something else down the road (like a 14-50)

Thanks for your suggestion.
 
I'll try to describe the layout: the electrical panel is in the basement in the southwest corner of the house. The garage and driveway are on the northwest corner of the house.

Sounds like my house. Ran 130' of wire to install my wall connector...

If your plan is to keep the vehicle long term I'd go for a more permanent solution. Holes in the garage that can't be sealed up aren't something I'd want.
 
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Good point. Did you have to upgrade your wiring to the next heavier gauge because of the length of the run? I wonder if there's a way for the guys to run the circuit through the attic and down the side of the house to avoid the garage stuff. I'll have to give the electricians a buzz and see what they can come up with...

The easiest way would be to have an outlet installed on the exterior of the house, which would only be like a 15-20 foot run, but that would not be a good location for a HWC at some point, nor would it be good for aesthetics as I'd see the conduit along the brickwork.
 
I park my car outside in the evenings to charge sometimes. My mobile charging cable is long enough in my case (I back the car up to the garage door) and I simply lay the cable on the ground and close the garage door.

Only modification I did was install a new garage door bottom seal and re-set the door's bottom limit slightly higher to where the soft rubber seal bears on the cable...not the garage door itself.

I might be missing something, but this is something to consider and only costs new seals (if your existing seals are squished, mine were) and a re-program of the door limits.
 
I park my car outside in the evenings to charge sometimes. My mobile charging cable is long enough in my case (I back the car up to the garage door) and I simply lay the cable on the ground and close the garage door.

Only modification I did was install a new garage door bottom seal and re-set the door's bottom limit slightly higher to where the soft rubber seal bears on the cable...not the garage door itself.

I might be missing something, but this is something to consider and only costs new seals (if your existing seals are squished, mine were) and a re-program of the door limits.

This might sound absurdly simplistic, but I keep one of my kid's spare rollerblade wheels just inside the garage, and slide it into position next to the charging cable where the door meets the floor before closing the garage door in order to avoid damaging the cable.
 
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I park my car outside in the evenings to charge sometimes. My mobile charging cable is long enough in my case (I back the car up to the garage door) and I simply lay the cable on the ground and close the garage door.

Only modification I did was install a new garage door bottom seal and re-set the door's bottom limit slightly higher to where the soft rubber seal bears on the cable...not the garage door itself.

I might be missing something, but this is something to consider and only costs new seals (if your existing seals are squished, mine were) and a re-program of the door limits.

I do the same if I have to park car outside but I didn't do any modification to the bottom seal. It just works fine.
 
I do the same if I have to park car outside but I didn't do any modification to the bottom seal. It just works fine.

Yeah it’s not required.

My door’s seal was 10yrs old and would not expand. On my case, the door limit was set low and the door put pressure on the cable.
So I adjusted the limit higher, and the new seal was needed so I don’t have a 1” gap under my garage door for insects, etc to crawl under and to let cold/hot air in and out.
 
The Tesla wall connector is rated for outdoor use. Mount it outside your garage and mount a 240V safety switch inside the garage that can switch the charger on/off when you need.

Op, as is often repeated for charging questions in these parts - do it right or don't do it at all. Hire an electrician to see what can be done within NEC and local codes using your existing interior garage receptacle.

I second the Tesla Wall Connector recommendation quoted above since you can't park your vehicle inside the garage. Otherwise, look at using a weatherproof RV charging box to hide the mobile connector in.
 
I park my car outside in the evenings to charge sometimes. My mobile charging cable is long enough in my case (I back the car up to the garage door) and I simply lay the cable on the ground and close the garage door.

Only modification I did was install a new garage door bottom seal and re-set the door's bottom limit slightly higher to where the soft rubber seal bears on the cable...not the garage door itself.

I might be missing something, but this is something to consider and only costs new seals (if your existing seals are squished, mine were) and a re-program of the door limits.

I have parked in the driveway and had the cable go under my garage door for the last 6 years with no problems whatsoever. I think you may have a solution looking for a problem.
 
I have parked in the driveway and had the cable go under my garage door for the last 6 years with no problems whatsoever. I think you may have a solution looking for a problem.

The problem was my garage door limit was set very low and crushed the flexible seal, therefore the bottom of the door was actually compressing the cable.

Just to clarify - I replaced the seal, not modify it. I then raised the closed limit on the garage door.

At my in-laws, I simply close the door because the bottom of the garage door does not compress the cable.

The OP’s original post implied that his garage door was compressing the cable, thus whyi posted my suggestion.
 
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The problem was my garage door limit was set very low and crushed the flexible seal, therefore the bottom of the door was actually compressing the cable.

Just to clarify - I replaced the seal, not modify it. I then raised the closed limit on the garage door.

At my in-laws, I simply close the door because the bottom of the garage door does not compress the cable.

The OP’s original post implied that his garage door was compressing the cable, thus whyi posted my suggestion.

I didn't have that issue. I didn't adjust anything and the cable was fine. Just lucky, I guess.