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Some questions about 14-50 receptacles

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I'd confirm what size the wiring is, if 12 guage put in a 6-20 recepticle, buy the UMC adapter and done. If 10 guage you can put in a dryer outlet or 6-30 recepticle (if no neutral) and an evse adapter if it's not a standard Tesla one.

I charged for a few months with a 6-20 and surprisingly it was totally fine for me to use all of the time. I've never come back with an empty battery and needed a 100% charge in under 8 hours. In the rare event this someday that might happen, 5 minutes at a super charger and your good.

I'd even be fine putting in a wall charger using that existing wiring at 20amps if you prefer wall charger while keeping UMC in the vehicle.

It's fine if you want to pay hundreds or thousands to upgrade to 50/60 amps, just keep in mind it's more of a luxury purchase and not necessary.
 
Is that to electrical code anywhere? To do that, you would have to convert the white neutral wire to a hot wire and use the unshielded ground wire as neutral. It would work electrically, but I wouldn’t confess to anyone that I did that.
There is no neutral in a 240V circuit, just two hots and a ground. In the case of a 14-50 the neutral actual serves no purpose other than to make a 120V circuit available, if desired. Installing a 6-50 instead of a 14-50 is also common and saves the cost of running a neutral.

Generally you just put a piece of red tape on the white wire at both ends to signify it is a hot wire instead of neutral.
 
There is no neutral in a 240V circuit, just two hots and a ground. In the case of a 14-50 the neutral actual serves no purpose other than to make a 120V circuit available, if desired. Installing a 6-50 instead of a 14-50 is also common and saves the cost of running a neutral.

Generally you just put a piece of red tape on the white wire at both ends to signify it is a hot wire instead of neutral.
Sure enough. I was not familiar with the 6-20 outlet. Two hots and no neutral. Seems like that would be a pretty specialized use case. (I did not bother to look up typical uses of that outlet.)
 
"One more idea... If there's a dedicated 5-20 outlet in the garage, it could be swapped to a 6-20 for the cost of the breaker and outlet." Sadly... this was stuck in my drafts!

Generally you just put a piece of red tape on the white wire at both ends to signify it is a hot wire instead of neutral.
That's actually in the NEC. Whether the 'professional's out there follow it is another question.
 
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"One more idea... If there's a dedicated 5-20 outlet in the garage, it could be swapped to a 6-20 for the cost of the breaker and outlet." Sadly... this was stuck in my drafts!


That's actually in the NEC. Whether the 'professional's out there follow it is another question.
How do you tell if the outlet is on a dedicated circuit?
 
Sure enough. I was not familiar with the 6-20 outlet. Two hots and no neutral. Seems like that would be a pretty specialized use case. (I did not bother to look up typical uses of that outlet.)
These are commonly used for hotel A/C window units.
(Back in the early days, I even used these to charge at overnight stops... just ran a cord out the window.)
 
How do you tell if the outlet is on a dedicated circuit?
Turn off the breaker for that outlet and check if any other outlets turn off at the same time. Probably also want to have all sorts of hardwired lights turned on, so you can tell if THOSE go out.

An electrician may also have a device (s)he could plug into the outlet to see whether there are other things on the circuit.
 
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Sure enough. I was not familiar with the 6-20 outlet. Two hots and no neutral. Seems like that would be a pretty specialized use case. (I did not bother to look up typical uses of that outlet.)

It's a great option if you have a standard 120volt outlet on its own 20amp circuit in the vicinity where you want to charge. Just put red tape on the white neutral, switch the breaker to a 2 pole, and replace the household outlet with the 6-20. You instantly have a great ev charging option and you didn't have to run an inch of new wire.
 
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In addition to comment above, there should only be 3 wires going into the box when you remove the outlet.
To clarify that... there should be only one cable coming into the box, with three conductors(white/black/ground). Note that its not foolproof, an outlet at the end of a chain of outlets will pass this test even though there are other things in the chain. This means its only an easy way to determine that an outlet is NOT dedicated.
 
It looks as if you are new at this so I’ll tell you what I know. I invite anyone else to jump in. I am not an electrician.

The car can charge from a 120V outlet. I get 3-4 miles per hour with my S charging this way. You cannot charge at the same amperage as the breaker. You can for a short while then the breaker will probably trip. A breaker has one function, that is to protect the wiring in the house. Modern breakers often trip slowly, they’ll often deal with a larger amperage but not for very long. Just because a breaker doesn’t immediately trip doesn’t mean it won’t trip later. If your breaker trips, you can set the car for a lower maximum charge rate.

The car will have a certain amount of “overhead” when charging so it is more efficient to charge at a higher amperage. I think of that overhead as fixed but that might not be right. In any case the increase in amperage will result in more miles of charge than one might think by simply doubling the 120V charge rate.

You can use various adapters and you can get a 50A extension cord. The cord is very heavy, it’s similar to a garden hose in diameter. Mine I think is 30 feet. Then one can add various adapters to the end. I have an adapter that goes to a modern clothes dryer outlet. With the extension and the adapter I can charge from a 240V household dryer outlet. I believe I get 15 or so miles of charge per hour that way, but it’s been a while.

If the time you anticipate spending in the current rental is limited, I’d look into using the available electrical supply/outlets. If there’s a clothes dryer that’s an option. An extension cord/adapter system will travel with you. We’re talking fat 50A extension cords, not the 120V cords you find at local retailers. Those mass market cords may provide a solution as well but you must pay attention to the ratings, the quality, the size of the wire and length of the cord. If any cord ever gets warm, that’s a serious warning. I have a small welder, 15A of current is sufficient to weld steel. Not as it comes from the wall but the point is that 15A is quite a bit of power. There’s another consideration, most things plugged into a 120V outlet sip power and don’t draw anything like the amount your car will. The car is a sustained high draw device.

There are a large number of outlet configurations in 120V and 240V, especially in older buildings. You can find about any adapter you need. The car is very good about using whatever you supply it. It’s good at limiting the amperage though a setting on the screen but that setting can change after a software update so always check. If you trip a breaker after a software update, that’s something to check.

On a positive note, it’s better for the battery to charge relatively slowly. The superchargers charge quickly but that’s harder on the battery than a slow trickle. You can find charts of various adapters on line. That chart will supply you with the information you’ll need if you go the adapter/extension cord route. I can charge about anywhere, from a 120V15A outlet up to 240V50A.

If using a nondedicated circuit, you want to be aware of other things on the circuit. A compressor motor in a refrigerator or freezer can draw a lot of current as it starts, much more than when simply running.

I can’t think of anything else to tell you right now, but this is far from exhaustive. It should get you started, though. You have a lot of options but you must read and know exactly what you are doing.

There are some tiresome people that go through blindly disagreeing with posts for no apparent reason. If anyone disagrees with something I‘ve posted here, please post exactly what it is that causes you to object, and why.
D.E., thanks for taking the time for sharing this lengthy response. I took away a lot of good information. I do have some questions however.

I think I am going to forgo pursing a 5-15, 5-20 or 6-20 receptacle. There aren't any dedicated 120V or 240v going to the garage other than this wall heater. There is a dryer somewhat nearby but it's up a flight of stairs. Running a heavy duty extension cord would be less than ideal, plus I'd still have to replace that receptacle with a Hubble or equivalent and switch the breaker to a GFCI one. I already have the HPWC and the mobile connector is on its way.

So my plan is to use the wire coming from the dedicated 240V 20A breaker and mount the HPWC to that. It will require an extension of about 2 extra feet of wire to where the HPWC would be mounted onto the stud. It looks like 15' of 12 AWG Romex is about $20. I almost want to do this myself but I'd rather not. I don't know what gauge the existing wire is yet but I am assuming it is enough to support the 20A breaker. This work should be pretty minimal for a professional and the material is almost nil. I have a feeling if I go back to my electrician he will still give me a $450 quote to get this installed. I'm wondering if I should shop around some more for a better price.

Since the breaker is 20A that means the output of the HPWC should be less so I am not constantly tripping it. Does this mean I actually set the HWPC to 16A(20% or 20A) or set it to 20A and it will automatically reduce the output?

How does that coincide with the amperage charge setting in the Car menu itself?

80% rule. Run the HPWC at 16 amps.

Thanks - Asked this above but do I set the HPWC to 16 and it will run at 16? Or do I still set it to 20 and it will reduce it to 16?

I'd confirm what size the wiring is, if 12 guage put in a 6-20 recepticle, buy the UMC adapter and done. If 10 guage you can put in a dryer outlet or 6-30 recepticle (if no neutral) and an evse adapter if it's not a standard Tesla one.

I charged for a few months with a 6-20 and surprisingly it was totally fine for me to use all of the time. I've never come back with an empty battery and needed a 100% charge in under 8 hours. In the rare event this someday that might happen, 5 minutes at a super charger and your good.

I'd even be fine putting in a wall charger using that existing wiring at 20amps if you prefer wall charger while keeping UMC in the vehicle.

It's fine if you want to pay hundreds or thousands to upgrade to 50/60 amps, just keep in mind it's more of a luxury purchase and not necessary.

Yeah, I have no idea what gauge the wire is yet. I am assuming that it is at least 12 gauge since it's a 20A circuit. I definitely don't need more than 30A. If I have the availability to do so in my next home, sure. But for now I am trying to get the most with what I have, for an optimal cost.

"One more idea... If there's a dedicated 5-20 outlet in the garage, it could be swapped to a 6-20 for the cost of the breaker and outlet." Sadly... this was stuck in my drafts!


That's actually in the NEC. Whether the 'professional's out there follow it is another question.

I haven't tested but I would bet that there are no dedicated 5-15 or 5-20s in the garage.
 
The least expensive option would be to install a 6-20 outlet, using the existing 20 A breaker and wiring, and buy Tesla’s 6-20 UMC adapter.

^^ This is the way I would do it, but your other option is to install the TWC on the 20A circuit.
The trade-offs are in hardware and installation costs:

6-20 route:
6-20r receptacle
6-20 adapter from Tesla
GFI breaker if you want to be code compliant
Installations costs of breaker and receptacle (should be really cheap, or DIY)

TWC route:
Installation cost of TWC (can be pricey, although it should be cheap.) Watch a youtube video or 3, and decide if DIY is for you.
If you go this route, you MUST set the TWC for a 20A circuit. This is a critical safety issue.
Addendum: I read that you want to install the TWC a distance away from the current 20A circuit termination. That is a non-trivial install for a DIY'r, and will bump up the electrician cost considerably. You will have to fabricate a conduit run since it is unlikely you can run the extension behind the wall.
 
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I'd think to add 2-3 feet and install a wall connector on an existing circuit it should only cost 100-200 for an electrician. That's a super easy task.

But I don't know what if any possible permit costs are, possible replacement of breaker or other item in the circuit, minimum trip cost, liability or insurance, etc.

Those first two you'd have to pay even if you are skilled enough and legally able to do the work yourself.
 
D.E., thanks for taking the time for sharing this lengthy response. I took away a lot of good information. I do have some questions however.

I think I am going to forgo pursing a 5-15, 5-20 or 6-20 receptacle. There aren't any dedicated 120V or 240v going to the garage other than this wall heater. There is a dryer somewhat nearby but it's up a flight of stairs. Running a heavy duty extension cord would be less than ideal, plus I'd still have to replace that receptacle with a Hubble or equivalent and switch the breaker to a GFCI one. I already have the HPWC and the mobile connector is on its way.

So my plan is to use the wire coming from the dedicated 240V 20A breaker and mount the HPWC to that. It will require an extension of about 2 extra feet of wire to where the HPWC would be mounted onto the stud. It looks like 15' of 12 AWG Romex is about $20. I almost want to do this myself but I'd rather not. I don't know what gauge the existing wire is yet but I am assuming it is enough to support the 20A breaker. This work should be pretty minimal for a professional and the material is almost nil. I have a feeling if I go back to my electrician he will still give me a $450 quote to get this installed. I'm wondering if I should shop around some more for a better price.

Since the breaker is 20A that means the output of the HPWC should be less so I am not constantly tripping it. Does this mean I actually set the HWPC to 16A(20% or 20A) or set it to 20A and it will automatically reduce the output?

How does that coincide with the amperage charge setting in the Car menu itself?



Thanks - Asked this above but do I set the HPWC to 16 and it will run at 16? Or do I still set it to 20 and it will reduce it to 16?



Yeah, I have no idea what gauge the wire is yet. I am assuming that it is at least 12 gauge since it's a 20A circuit. I definitely don't need more than 30A. If I have the availability to do so in my next home, sure. But for now I am trying to get the most with what I have, for an optimal cost.



I haven't tested but I would bet that there are no dedicated 5-15 or 5-20s in the garage.
I don’t have an HPWC so cannot answer your questions. I’m confident that others here can.

If you don’t know what you are doing, $450 might be a bargain. You can certainly shop around. Using existing plugs, adapters, and outlets isn’t particularly difficult. If running new wiring, I’d pay an electrician. You know, I think I could probably fill a tooth with some lidocaine, a syringe, needle, a Dremel, a diamond bit, some silver, and a bit of mercury. But I won’t, I’ll pay the dentist. I knew a man that used to spay his own cats. I won’t do that either. I guess I’m thinking just because one can it doesn’t mean one should.
 
“Since the breaker is 20A that means the output of the HPWC should be less so I am not constantly tripping it. Does this mean I actually set the HWPC to 16A(20% or 20A) or set it to 20A and it will automatically reduce the output?”

You set the HPWC to the circuit amperage, which is this case is 20A. It will automatically apply the 80% rule and pull no more than 16A

“How does that coincide with the amperage charge setting in the Car menu itself?”

The HPWC tells the car the maximum allowed, which in this case is 16A.

Finally, get approval from the landlord (who will likely require an electrician) and pay the electrician. DIY in a property you do not own is generally not a good idea.

”2 extra feet of wire to where the HPWC would be mounted onto the stud”

Think again about running a bit more wire to get the HPWC into the garage itself.
 
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You cannot pull more than 20A through your existing wire and in fact the most you can use on that connection is 16A (there is an 80% rule for continuous load items) so you need a new wire. It is extremely unlikely the wire is rated for the kind of loads EV charging requires.

$1,000 may be a reasonable price based on location of the breaker box.

So then as to hardware cost, in addition to the wire and running it:

The Wall Connector is about $400 and the breaker is about $15. If you install a 50A circuit you will charge at 40A and if you install a 60A circuit you will charge at 48A. It is very easy to remove the wall connector and take it with you (easy DIY). Your sunk case is just $15 for the breaker,

The mobile connector is $230, the Hubbell NEMA 14-50 outlet is about $80, you will need a GFCI breaker at about $150, and some sort of cable management system for say $35, this total $492. You will be limited to a 32A charge rate (mobile connector limit.) It is of course easy to take the mobile connector with you, but the outlet and breaker costs are a sunk costs.

If you do not do one of the above, what other option(s) are you considering?
No GFCI breaker!!
 
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“Since the breaker is 20A that means the output of the HPWC should be less so I am not constantly tripping it. Does this mean I actually set the HWPC to 16A(20% or 20A) or set it to 20A and it will automatically reduce the output?”

You set the HPWC to the circuit amperage, which is this case is 20A. It will automatically apply the 80% rule and pull no more than 16A

“How does that coincide with the amperage charge setting in the Car menu itself?”

The HPWC tells the car the maximum allowed, which in this case is 16A.

Finally, get approval from the landlord (who will likely require an electrician) and pay the electrician. DIY in a property you do not own is generally not a good idea.

”2 extra feet of wire to where the HPWC would be mounted onto the stud”

Think again about running a bit more wire to get the HPWC into the garage itself.
I've just pulled out my installation manual for my HPWC.
It seems to say that you should set the DIP switches to the maximum current supplied to the vehicle, not the circuit breaker rating.
 

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There is no neutral in a 240V circuit, just two hots and a ground. In the case of a 14-50 the neutral actual serves no purpose other than to make a 120V circuit available, if desired. Installing a 6-50 instead of a 14-50 is also common and saves the cost of running a neutral.

Generally you just put a piece of red tape on the white wire at both ends to signify it is a hot wire instead of neutral.
This is not true