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Some questions about 14-50 receptacles

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Presumably the garage door was up to code when the home was built, not required to upgrade the garage door when the code is later changed. In any event it is a rental, as I recall. The responsibility for upgrading the garage door would be with the property owner, not the tenant.

With no gasoline powered vehicles, yard tools or stored gasoline in the garage the only appreciable risk, unless you believe electric vehicles routinely combust, is of mice, other pests entering the home while the door from the garage to the hallway is open. If you leave the door from the hallway to the garage open while charging a vehicle parked inside the garage there should be no issue. (Using the Wall Connector is no different than if you plugged the Tesla Mobile Connector into a receptacle that happened to be located in the hallway and charged the Tesla vehicle.

If this is a rental property any improvements made to the property technically become a permanent improvement to the home (check local regulations concerning rentals.)
 
Presumably the garage door was up to code when the home was built, not required to upgrade the garage door when the code is later changed. In any event it is a rental, as I recall. The responsibility for upgrading the garage door would be with the property owner, not the tenant.

With no gasoline powered vehicles, yard tools or stored gasoline in the garage the only appreciable risk, unless you believe electric vehicles routinely combust, is of mice, other pests entering the home while the door from the garage to the hallway is open. If you leave the door from the hallway to the garage open while charging a vehicle parked inside the garage there should be no issue. (Using the Wall Connector is no different than if you plugged the Tesla Mobile Connector into a receptacle that happened to be located in the hallway and charged the Tesla vehicle.

If this is a rental property any improvements made to the property technically become a permanent improvement to the home (check local regulations concerning rentals.)
The door leading from the garage to the hallway is definitely more robust than the normal doors in the apartment. The connect from the bottom of the door to the floor is tighter but I wouldn't call it sealed. It is also self closing. I would presume that it is either fire-rated or akin to. It was likely installed when the building was constructed.

There are some stains on the concrete floor of the garage but no apparent odor. Smells like a garage. Definitely no smell of gas.

Again, between that door and the living space is a set of stairs and another door (albeit not fire rated).
 
Right...Currently, the splice resides in the housing behind the wall heater. The electrician didn't mention anything about addressing the splice. I know you're talking about a run to the garage, not the current set up, but I figured it was worth mentioning.

Ugh, well crap. I might have to make some phone calls and see if I can find a good price to run it into the garage.

Thanks again for the feedback.
In an electric box behind the heater? That would probably count. The important thing is that it can be accessed without tearing out drywall, and it is contained so that if one of the connections gets hot it isn't in direct contact with flammable materials.
 
Presumably the garage door was up to code when the home was built, not required to upgrade the garage door when the code is later changed. In any event it is a rental, as I recall. The responsibility for upgrading the garage door would be with the property owner, not the tenant.

With no gasoline powered vehicles, yard tools or stored gasoline in the garage the only appreciable risk, unless you believe electric vehicles routinely combust, is of mice, other pests entering the home while the door from the garage to the hallway is open. If you leave the door from the hallway to the garage open while charging a vehicle parked inside the garage there should be no issue. (Using the Wall Connector is no different than if you plugged the Tesla Mobile Connector into a receptacle that happened to be located in the hallway and charged the Tesla vehicle.

If this is a rental property any improvements made to the property technically become a permanent improvement to the home (check local regulations concerning rentals.)
Never intended to suggest the door needed attention, just that propping it open to charge wasn't right. As far as the fire risk, no the car isn't likely to catch fire. If it were, I wouldn't own one. But you can't say with a straight face that it has never happened, and that the risk is zero. I'm also quite sure that this wouldn't pass inspection, which would make me nervous, doubly so since this is apparently a multi-family building.
 
In an electric box behind the heater? That would probably count. The important thing is that it can be accessed without tearing out drywall, and it is contained so that if one of the connections gets hot it isn't in direct contact with flammable materials.
That is correct. The heater housing consists of a metal "molding" the sits in the cutout in the dry wall. I believe it is anchored to a stud. The wires sit inside that metal housing and then the heater + fan is mounted to it. Takes 3 screws to remove the vent and the heater. no splicing behind the drywall.
 
Or NOT open the drywall and have an electrician drill from the garage all the way to the heater, if we assume the garage is just to the right of this picture.
The garage wall is opposite the heater/receptacle. The wire would have to run down the hall, up to the ceiling, around the door, back down the hall, and into the garage. That was driving the original expensive electrician’s quote to install in the garage.

 
The garage wall is opposite the heater/receptacle. The wire would have to run down the hall, up to the ceiling, around the door, back down the hall, and into the garage. That was driving the original expensive electrician’s quote to install in the garage.

Correct. The ceiling here is 20’ high. The cheapest option of getting 240v to the garage would be to run wire track from the wall heater to above the door frame leading into the garage and then run the wire to the mounting location of the WC. This also results in more demo which I would be responsible for fixing once I leave.

This was quoted for $1k + tax and given that I will only be here for about another year it just didn’t seem to make sense. Plus the demo for the foyer setup is 1 hole that is probably the size of a quarter at most.

The electrician didn’t mention anything about codes or risks when we discussed mounting inside the foyer. Again, this is an in house electrician for the apartment complex.
 
The code compliance stuff is a red herring. Enjoy your new charger, and drive on.
It's not a red herring. It is legitimate building code. However...
and given that I will only be here for about another year it just didn’t seem to make sense.
Because of the two factors that it's only for a year or two and in a house that you don't own, I personally would not consider it worth it to change anything on this. For a permanent 30+ years thing, sure, I would get it done right, but probably not for your situation.
 
It's not a red herring. It is legitimate building code. However...

Because of the two factors that it's only for a year or two and in a house that you don't own, I personally would not consider it worth it to change anything on this. For a permanent 30+ years thing, sure, I would get it done right, but probably not for your situation.
In the context of this thread, it is totally a red hering. And you said as much in your 2nd clip above. Yes, it is a legit code thing. But yes, in this real life situation, it is not worth the attention it is getting in this thread.

I fully agree with you... if I was doing this in a home I owned, I would absolutely spend what it took to properly install a dedicated circuit in the garage. But I would not advise the OP to spend >$1K to run a wire from that heater, around the hallway, over the doors, and into the garage. That door will be closed most of the time.
 
It's not a red herring. It is legitimate building code. However...

Because of the two factors that it's only for a year or two and in a house that you don't own, I personally would not consider it worth it to change anything on this. For a permanent 30+ years thing, sure, I would get it done right, but probably not for your situation.

In the context of this thread, it is totally a red hering. And you said as much in your 2nd clip above. Yes, it is a legit code thing. But yes, in this real life situation, it is not worth the attention it is getting in this thread.

I fully agree with you... if I was doing this in a home I owned, I would absolutely spend what it took to properly install a dedicated circuit in the garage. But I would not advise the OP to spend >$1K to run a wire from that heater, around the hallway, over the doors, and into the garage. That door will be closed most of the time.
Exactly my thought process. It looks like I will be charging about every 2-3 days, overnight.

If this were my home or if I were planning on staying here for a longer time, not only would I do it right but I also wouldn't settle for a 20A breaker haha.
 
Exactly my thought process. It looks like I will be charging about every 2-3 days, overnight.

If this were my home or if I were planning on staying here for a longer time, not only would I do it right but I also wouldn't settle for a 20A breaker haha.
I'm not going to necessarily disagree with you on this, but I do feel that it is better that you know about the issue. After all, if you were to change your mind and decide to live there longer, or it turned out you did store volatile chemicals (paint, solvents, etc...) you might make a different decision.