Yes for sure that would have been a better method. But I was going to do all that stuff anyway because it was cheap and I had done it before on other cars so I was just taking a shotgun approach to killing every possible source of noise I could think of. There was probably more work than a scientific approach but it was effective because the car is now significantly quieter on the highway. Others have done scientific testing on some of what I did but I don't believe anybody has done a scientific measurement of Dynamatting of the doors or the trunk area. But there are measurements on the door seals and the neoprene tubing around the glass. Don't have those Links at my fingertips but I know there's threads on both of those two on this forum.
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Sound Deadening Model 3
- Thread starter fly2damoon
- Start date
Yes for sure that would have been a better method. But I was going to do all that stuff anyway because it was cheap and I had done it before on other cars so I was just taking a shotgun approach to killing every possible source of noise I could think of. There was probably more work than a scientific approach but it was effective because the car is now significantly quieter on the highway. Others have done scientific testing on some of what I did but I don't believe anybody has done a scientific measurement of Dynamatting of the doors or the trunk area. But there are measurements on the door seals and the neoprene tubing around the glass. Don't have those Links at my fingertips but I know there's threads on both of those two on this forum.
Did you layer the RPM kit and the other tubing, or did you use the tubing in the places the RPM kit didn't reach? I have a similar kit to the RPM kit (got it off amazon) and it hasn't made any noticeable change on it's own (though I mostly hear wind noise from the passenger A pillar area, rather than the glass roof itself - it's possible it made an improvement but it's drowned out by that wind noise)
I also have one of the door seal kits, and that did make a difference in road noise. It also really tightened up the sub bass, to the point I wish the sub had it's own EQ, separate from the rest of the speakers.
A little bit of both. The RPM Tesla kit tubing compressed so easily that it didn't really fill the space in the back of the roof window glass so I doubled it up there and then ran the solid tubing down the length of the rear window as well. Then I ran two separate strips on the front window up to the beginning of the roof glass. So in some instances the solid tubing was placed on top of the easily compressible hollow neoprene tubing that was just on the center roof glass piece. In other areas it was only the solid tubing. The end result was that there was really no Gap to excite any kind of resonance from air passing over it.
We should begin seeing the "sound deadening my Model Y" threads soon enough! Interestingly, the Model Y doesn't show to be able to tow, but the manual appears to show that restriction as "coil suspension". This makes me wonder if towing will be tied to the availability of air suspension (since the latter can level the rear when additional tongue weight is applied). This and the "leaked?" air suspension stuff in the online catalog give me hope that we will see it (in the model 3 too) AND that the air suspension will help to reduce NVH in these cars.
Send us a pic of you sitting in your car wearing your "best solution." We all need a good laugh.
mtndrew1
Active Member
I installed the trunk liner sold by RPM Tesla and many online distributors (they all appear to be identical) and it made a significant reduction in noise from the rear of the car.
Mind you my car has the “hole” style rear parcel shelf and there was a ton of noise radiating through that opening. It’s much quieter now, well worth the $75.
Mind you my car has the “hole” style rear parcel shelf and there was a ton of noise radiating through that opening. It’s much quieter now, well worth the $75.
Interesting because I did not notice any change in noise- do you have any before and after dB readings?. I just bought some sound deadening to apply under that trunk area and properly close the hole before covering it again with the trunk liner mat. Hopefully that will help for me.
mtndrew1
Active Member
I did not take any measurements but I don’t think it’s placebo effect because now I notice wind noise around the front of the car as the primary source where before it was the roar from the back.
Could be my specific roads or the fact that I have a very early car, but I do notice a difference and feel it was worth the cost. It also looks nice but that’s not why I bought it.
Uncle Paul
Well-Known Member
Not unusual that after successfully treating for sound in one area, you then notice sound from another area.
mtndrew1
Active Member
Someone here mentioned they have an early car and a later 2020 model.
Could someone who fits this description confirm or deny any differences in factory side glass window seals and if there is one, post some photos?
I am willing to buy the 2020 parts and install them if they make the car quieter.
Could someone who fits this description confirm or deny any differences in factory side glass window seals and if there is one, post some photos?
I am willing to buy the 2020 parts and install them if they make the car quieter.
I recently installed that kit after waiting nearly 4 months for RPM Tesla to ship it to me (and that was with their extra-cost expedited shipping service). Complete worthless. Zero change in noise, and I used the same phone/app for before and after dB tests. And it just doesn't sound any quieter.
I just ripped the trunk seal off because it was making the trunk really hard to close even after letting the seals settle for a couple of weeks.
And the adhesive is super low quality. I was very careful to clean the surface with 91% IPA and then use their adhesion promoter and I have a couple of the seals already coming off. I can tell a good quality adhesive from garbage, and this one is garbage.
Plus the seal design on the front doors does are not properly designed to seal the lower part of the trailing edge of the door, so plenty of dust and water can still get into the door jam area.
It's not a big cost, but it is a time suck for zero gain. Don't bother.
destructure00
Active Member
I used a different brand, but same results as you. Waste of time and money. Removed it a couple weeks ago because it made the doors harder to close.
Zcd1
Active Member
I used 2 different types of seals bought off of Amazon (Prime 2-day shipping) and noticed the difference in road/tire noise right away.
Didn't make the doors more difficult to shut in my case, but did make them sound better when being shut.
Well worth the $35 and 30 minutes, IMO. (shrug)
Didn't make the doors more difficult to shut in my case, but did make them sound better when being shut.
Well worth the $35 and 30 minutes, IMO. (shrug)
Why 2 different seals? Did you get D seals and B seals rather than a kit (basenor, rpm, goloho, etc. )?
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