Thanks for sharing your work and results. I had suspicion that the noise/drumming sound we are hearing in the cabin on rougher patches is because of transmission of vibration from Suspension. I wish some 3rd Party making strut mount vibration isolation.My sound deadening mod list so far
1. sunroof elastic (no improvement at all)
2. rubber sound deadening for doors, trunk, frunk bought on ebay (no improvement at all)
3. A pillar gap filling (slightly improvement)
4. Four wheel wells sound deadening (see below)
Feedback: I am using Falken FK510, it claims to be quieter than Michelin PS4. After spending 4hrs putting the sound deadening material, I feel there is only marginally improved. I put the same kit on my 2012 Mazda 5, it was day and night difference, so I am bit disappointed here. The car A/C esd off and no audio turned on while testing: on newly paved road, definitely a bit quiet, but on rough concrete, the noise is absurd.
Should you do it? NO, unless you enjoy the process of ripping things out, sure.
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Sound Deadening Model 3
- Thread starter fly2damoon
- Start date
Red loctite is overkill. Red loctite requires heat to remove, hence it took 90 ft-lb (setting on my torque wrench) to break the bolts loose on that tiny T45 head. I would not use red loctite buy rather use blue instead.
I consulted with a former Mercedes and Honda tech (now mechanical engineer) and he also agrees the red loctite is overkill.
hridge2020
Member
I used a very long wrench, even with a long wrench I remember it wasn't so easy. I had my weight on the head of the wrench making sure I don't strip the head. The T45 I used is made in the USA.
Anyone planning to remove those seats, make sure not to use a cheap made T45 and a long wrench.
I haven't remove the passenger's seat yet and before doing so, I will examine that head and make sure it still looks brand new.
Instead of blindly copying what Tesla did, I should have done my homework... "does it make sense"? Why Tesla uses the red one is a great question.
If I recall properly, Tesla uses the blue one on the rear seat's screws as well as for the screws to hold the windows in place on the track. There are likely other places that use blue. Thanx your comments, I will definitely go with blue for the seats, thank you!
I haven't reinstall the front doors' window yet, blue seems overkill? I remember telling me, omg if I put that much force when I put it back, the window is definitely going to crack. Before putting back the screws in place, I'm going to use a heat gun to remove the old loctite everywhere so I know the true pressure that I'm applying. I do wonder if I should stick with the blue one or not.
XLR82XS
D M C
The sunroof elastic thing did nothing for me, but some think it works. I suspect this depends on whether those portions of the car are particularly out of alignment causing noise, plus some may just think it works because they want it to (but it seems unlikely that EVERYONE who felt it helped was purely psychological).
For me, the door seal kit made a noticeable difference, and also greatly increased the subwoofer response. I wish there was a separate or more detailed EQ to let me dial down the sub now ... I've got it set okay now, but it's still just a tad hotter than I'd like (versus being "just right" after adjustments in the EQ). Granted, for some tracks, that's more than fine, depends on the music and mood
For reference, mine was built in the middle of 2018 (July IIRC), VIN in the 4x,xxx range.
For me, the door seal kit made a noticeable difference, and also greatly increased the subwoofer response. I wish there was a separate or more detailed EQ to let me dial down the sub now ... I've got it set okay now, but it's still just a tad hotter than I'd like (versus being "just right" after adjustments in the EQ). Granted, for some tracks, that's more than fine, depends on the music and mood
For reference, mine was built in the middle of 2018 (July IIRC), VIN in the 4x,xxx range.
Thanks Bio. I did the same on my 3. Didn’t notice any difference with sunroof gasket. Did notice a difference with the door seals. Same VIN number range.The sunroof elastic thing did nothing for me, but some think it works. I suspect this depends on whether those portions of the car are particularly out of alignment causing noise, plus some may just think it works because they want it to (but it seems unlikely that EVERYONE who felt it helped was purely psychological).
For me, the door seal kit made a noticeable difference, and also greatly increased the subwoofer response. I wish there was a separate or more detailed EQ to let me dial down the sub now ... I've got it set okay now, but it's still just a tad hotter than I'd like (versus being "just right" after adjustments in the EQ). Granted, for some tracks, that's more than fine, depends on the music and mood
For reference, mine was built in the middle of 2018 (July IIRC), VIN in the 4x,xxx range.
Got new General AltiMAX rt43 tires installed and was able to install Noico sound deadening mats in the inner wheel wells, neoprene foam and mats on the wheel well liners in the front (plastic). Havent test driven enough but from what I have heard: tires sound a bit hollow (possibly no acoustic foam), going over bumps and small potholes sound much better, and as a bonus I actually have sidewalls to protect my 18" rims as well as rated 700 treadwear compared to 500 compared to OEM tires. Still need more time to test. On the freeway for several miles, I was running between 64-72 dB. Need to try same freeway again tomorrow. Sound deadening took me 6 hours including installing new tires.
I didn't know I could remove the sound foam from the MXM4 tires until it was too late and installed, so I have saved it and will install them on my next tire rotation. How much of a hit will i get on efficiency? Idk but I will keep a trip history on these tires. My last tires gave me 258 Wh/Mi for almost 19k miles recorded I dont remember the exact number on trip time saved.
I didn't know I could remove the sound foam from the MXM4 tires until it was too late and installed, so I have saved it and will install them on my next tire rotation. How much of a hit will i get on efficiency? Idk but I will keep a trip history on these tires. My last tires gave me 258 Wh/Mi for almost 19k miles recorded I dont remember the exact number on trip time saved.
XLR82XS
D M C
The stickier and wider the tire the more range will take a hit. Summer only compound has less rolling resistance than harder all-season compound.
If you use ABRP, it'll calculate your efficiency at 65mph; presumably. I don't have my old Michelins, but my 7-month old Vredestein Quatrac5 returned a 235Wh/mile efficiency at 65mph. Would like to know what the OEM tires show, because I thought 235Wh/mile at 65mph was very good, for a LR-AWD.
these tires are 235/45R 18 just like the MXM4. I still expect to take a hit on range but idk how much.
Sounds about right. I usually get 210-260Wh/Mi on most road conditions on all my drives. Not a fan driving uphill at times. From what Ive gathered on my TeslaFi, If I'm below 248Wh/Mi for 30 miles on the Energy graph, then im geting more miles out of my car than the rated EPA MPGe 116, so that makes me happy.
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I have A-piller, wind noise also... =(
I'm doing everything mentioned here. So I used Sugru to seal the gap between the A-piller and the fender. No help.
Used sugru to seal the end of the chrome trim at the end of the A-piller, no help.
Next i'm using expanding foam on the inside to fill the gap between the body and the body panel that leads in to the door/a-piller area. I'll let you guys know how that goes...
I'm doing everything mentioned here. So I used Sugru to seal the gap between the A-piller and the fender. No help.
Used sugru to seal the end of the chrome trim at the end of the A-piller, no help.
Next i'm using expanding foam on the inside to fill the gap between the body and the body panel that leads in to the door/a-piller area. I'll let you guys know how that goes...
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Check another thread where I point out that regular foam will help with the A-pillar noise. Expanding foam is pretty much irreversible, and may make repairs really tough if needed.
XLR82XS
D M C
Hi everyone,
Thanks for sharing and your efforts. I'm a new model Y owner and have the same problems - the road noise from the trunk area is awful.
Anyway, there must be shops that could do the sound insulation. Does anyone know of one in the Bay Area? I'm surprised no one has brought this up, it seems like for maybe a couple grand or so you could get the whole car done.
Tesla really screwed this up, but here we are...I do like just about everything else about the car, it's just a shame they didn't pay any attention to noise issues. All modern cars have progressed significantly around this in the past few years - our new prius and my friend's new subaru are WAY quieter and more solid than models 5 year old or more. So shame on Tesla for not paying attention. But anyway, if anyone knows of a good shop to do this, let us know. I'll start looking around and report back if I find something.
Thanks for sharing and your efforts. I'm a new model Y owner and have the same problems - the road noise from the trunk area is awful.
Anyway, there must be shops that could do the sound insulation. Does anyone know of one in the Bay Area? I'm surprised no one has brought this up, it seems like for maybe a couple grand or so you could get the whole car done.
Tesla really screwed this up, but here we are...I do like just about everything else about the car, it's just a shame they didn't pay any attention to noise issues. All modern cars have progressed significantly around this in the past few years - our new prius and my friend's new subaru are WAY quieter and more solid than models 5 year old or more. So shame on Tesla for not paying attention. But anyway, if anyone knows of a good shop to do this, let us know. I'll start looking around and report back if I find something.
Not sure what shops will do to an extent for sound proofing but it worth a shot to look around and call places. Best results is DIY if you can. Here is the first spot that comes to mind that I checked out while in the showroom to see the Model Y. I have yet to try Thinsulate to control road noise from the wheel wells. I just finished doing all wheel wells and front fenders with Noico sound deadening and some neoprene foam for noise and vibrations
For any wind noise, you can always try these efforts of putting closed-cell foam in the few areas we have mentioned before.
Model Y gap under the fender / A-pillar from the door is much bigger than Model 3
https://i.imgur.com/AO0lydo.jpg
up the wheel well to the A-pillar:
https://i.imgur.com/7pKhuCI.jpg
this could help significantly with wind noise for you but everyone's experience is slightly different.
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I think this was a typo - clearly sticky summer tires have more rolling resistance than harder tires. Not that it matters, but caught my eye.
XLR82XS
D M C
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