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Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update

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I drove around for almost two hours today, had the balance all the way to rear the entire time. The sub only hits in very specific frequencies, and even then it's pretty ineffective. The subs on the doors in the cabin are doing 100% of the work but that is not how it should be. I had played very extensively with the audio system when I got my car and the sub in the trunk was super loud.

That's what I was feeling as well (post above). I feel like part of the problem besides a straight up bug, or an engineer sending out a crap eq to everyone on accident is them trying to actively balance 8in and 10in subs. They should have went for a 12in in the back and had it handle 30-80hz only. Instead, it feels like the 10in handles 60-80hz with an insane rolloff on the bottom end.

BTW, any audiophile newbies who need a lesson in subs, play this song in your model 3:
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Once the main song actually starts, you can clearly hear the first bass note hit and slowly morph into a lower note. This hits pretty well, but I'm not sure if it's the door or 10 in sub, would have to test when it wouldn't annoy neighbors. Immediately after, it starts a new, lower bass note and morphs that lower. This is the bass line. The sound system can't even replicate the beginning of that second note, let alone the bottom (where it sounds the sexiest).

Here is another example. There are four bass notes in the bass melody, played in descending frequency. The 4th and lowest note is about 30hz. The model 3 can't even replicate the 3rd note:
 
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Well I can't wait until the subwoofer is actually working if it is broken so I can't test the low frequency range. Until then, I plan on getting something like the Rockford Fosgate 363 to reset the oem lines and do what I want with them, including adding a real 12in sub or similar.
We don’t know if there even are “OEM lines”. On the model S, at least, the MCU does all the processing and sends the discrete outputs to the amp on a per channel basis.

Also: the sub in the back is 8”
 
Yesterday 64.2 delivered significant rear sound and bass to my delight........today's morning commute sounded like a tin can speaker and NO bass. Still an ongoing issue. Pull the balance back and there is nothing. Not sure if the reset will work as I did not have time to try.....BUT, one should not have to do this so frequently! Ongoing Ugggggh......
 
Could you copy and post what they said to you?

Just an acknowledgement:

“Thank you for contacting Tesla Customer Support with your feedback. We appreciate your feedback, and will forward it to our Feature Request team for consideration in future updates. Our team reviews every customer request seriously.”

Today......my sound reverted back to nothing in the rear.....no bass and tin can weak sound overall.
 
the subwoofer is very weak for the model 3. I think it is literally just there to provide a little bit of bottom end for the deepest notes. I suspect most of the subbass you hear comes from the door speakers though I obviously havn't sat in a Model 3. If I'd give a number i'd say down to A sharp or G is door speakers and below that mainly subwoofer.

What the heck are you talking about. A sharp or G? Which Octave? That's the dumbest comment I've ever heard.

No, the sub covers a lot of low end, try unplugging the sub and hear what happens. Oh that's right you've never even sat in a Model 3.

Why are you even commenting here?

Most owners are quite happy with the Model 3 sound system when it's working correctly. It does not have a weak subwoofer for most normal folks. Nothing is enough for some bass heads.
 
What the heck are you talking about. A sharp or G? Which Octave? That's the dumbest comment I've ever heard.

No, the sub covers a lot of low end, try unplugging the sub and hear what happens. Oh that's right you've never even sat in a Model 3.

Why are you even commenting here?

Most owners are quite happy with the Model 3 sound system when it's working correctly. It does not have a weak subwoofer for most normal folks. Nothing is enough for some bass heads.

Take a breather. We love the model 3. However, the subwoofer is indeed neutered at the moment. Please see my post with music videos to test above. Also, if you weren't aware, frequncy/hz relates directly to specific notes (A through G), and there's only one octave between 30 and 60hz, the range that is most important to subwoofers as smaller speakers are physically incapable of reproducing it.

It's just weird to see tesla take the effort to put a sub in the car but not have it do its job and rely solely on the indoor mid bass speakers.

As for your baiting, bass head comment - it's a matter of it reprocuding or playing notes at all, not shaking the neighborhood. In other words, its OK to not understand what the rest of us are talking about, but it doesn't help to get so defensive and aggressive.
 
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It seems clear to me the subwoofer is sometimes working and sometimes not. After updating to 46.2 last night, the bass came back with a vengeance. In fact it was almost too much so I adjusted the equalizer after driving into work this morning. When I sat parked, I could feel the car bumping around at high volume. Then after work it was just gone, which I could confirm by fading back and hearing virtually no bass. I tried a two scroll wheel reboot while at a stop light on the way home but still gone. Upon arriving home, I did a power off from the menu and now the subwoofer is back. So there appears to be a bug that loses the subwoofer intermittently. And believe me, if you are asking whether it’s there or not, it is not — because the thing booms when working.

I wonder if there is a self resetting circuit breaker that is tripping and resetting or possibly a temperature related sensor tripping and resetting.

Try not "pushing" it for a day or so and see if it's stable.
 
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Take a breather. We love the model 3. However, the subwoofer is indeed neutered at the moment. Please see my post with music videos to test above. Also, if you weren't aware, frequncy/hz relates directly to specific notes (A through G), and there's only one octave between 30 and 60hz, the range that is most important to subwoofers as smaller speakers are physically incapable of reproducing it.

It's just weird to see tesla take the effort to put a sub in the car but not have it do its job and rely solely on the indoor mid bass speakers.

As for your baiting, bass head comment - it's a matter of it reprocuding or playing notes at all, not shaking the neighborhood. In other words, its OK to not understand what the rest of us are talking about, but it doesn't help to get so defensive and aggressive.

His comment was nothing about "neutered at the moment" which some folks are running into. He's saying flat out the sub design is weak and a bunch of BS of what the door speakers go down to without having ever sat in a Model 3 or measured it. Let's not confuse the two (Bug vs Design). The Bass/Sub in the Model 3 is quite good for an OEM system.

Again there might be a BUG (hardware or software) causing some folks to lose their bass.

Your statement of Tesla putting to much reliability on the indoor mid bass speakers is completely wrong. The Sub (when it's working) does plenty of the lifting.

And most, if not all, people that do have the issue currently were happy before, regardless of how Tesla chose to route bass.

Do you really want this thread to discuss the design choices Tesla made or get to the bottom of what exactly is going wrong, how folks might have restored it, if there might be a reliable work around for it, something to prevent it from going south once you do get it back or better information to feed Tesla to help rectify it permanently?
 
His comment was nothing about "neutered at the moment" which some folks are running into. He's saying flat out the sub design is weak and a bunch of BS of what the door speakers go down to without having ever sat in a Model 3 or measured it. Let's not confuse the two (Bug vs Design). The Bass/Sub in the Model 3 is quite good for an OEM system.

Again there might be a BUG (hardware or software) causing some folks to lose their bass.

Your statement of Tesla putting to much reliability on the indoor mid bass speakers is completely wrong. The Sub (when it's working) does plenty of the lifting.

And most, if not all, people that do have the issue currently were happy before, regardless of how Tesla chose to route bass.

Do you really want this thread to discuss the design choices Tesla made or get to the bottom of what exactly is going wrong, how folks might have restored it, if there might be a reliable work around for it, something to prevent it from going south once you do get it back or better information to feed Tesla to help rectify it permanently?

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree then. I just got back from another round of testing and the sub woofer in the back is barely noticable imo and also does not output frequencies below 45~hz.

If this sub does perform differently than what I've experienced so far due to a bug, I look forward to hearing it when's it's fixed!
 
Please note that most people aren't experiencing this loss of bass. It works fine in my car, hasn't changed through the variety of recent software updates. Makes me wonder if there's a common denominator with the cars that are experiencing this - maybe a certain range of VIN's? Mine's a relatively early one, 15,xxx.
 
Please note that most people aren't experiencing this loss of bass. It works fine in my car, hasn't changed through the variety of recent software updates. Makes me wonder if there's a common denominator with the cars that are experiencing this - maybe a certain range of VIN's? Mine's a relatively early one, 15,xxx.
55XXX here.....and miserable with the sound.
 
Please note that most people aren't experiencing this loss of bass. It works fine in my car, hasn't changed through the variety of recent software updates. Makes me wonder if there's a common denominator with the cars that are experiencing this - maybe a certain range of VIN's? Mine's a relatively early one, 15,xxx.
Sduck can you do me a favor and listen to the songs I put on the previous page and let me know if the rumbling low bass disappears at the sections I described?

It should go from a full, rumbly sound to an obvious lack of rumble. With a subwoofer producing the correct frequency ranges, there should be no discernable difference in the bass lines except a slight amount on the 4th note in the young jeezy track because it is exceptionally low (30hz).
 
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree then. I just got back from another round of testing and the sub woofer in the back is barely noticable imo and also does not output frequencies below 45~hz.

If this sub does perform differently than what I've experienced so far due to a bug, I look forward to hearing it when's it's fixed!

Nothing very scientific. Took all of 5 minutes to do. Equalizer is flat, balance centered, immersion is standard.

I measured with a tone generator via Bluetooth (lots of free apps to do this). Sub falls off below 30hz. Still Audible down to 25hz, zippo at 20hz. Sub starts to cross over around 60hz. Sub Still audible at 80hz. The lower door speakers do nothing below 50hz. At 80hz sub and door speakers have modest output. I didn’t measure not sure how close they are to each other.

My guess is the sub crosses over around 70-80hz

Sub is the only thing producing at 45hz where you say it’s doing nothing. Again, I think my system is working fine.

For reference I used this app

‎Signal Generator: Audio Test Tone Utility
 
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Nothing very scientific. Took all of 5 minutes to do. Equalizer is flat, balance centered, immersion is standard.

I measured with a tone generator via Bluetooth (lots of free apps to do this). Sub falls off below 30hz. Still Audible down to 25hz, zippo at 20hz. Sub starts to cross over around 60hz. Sub Still audible at 80hz. The lower door speakers do nothing below 50hz. At 80hz sub and door speakers have modest output. I didn’t measure not sure how close they are to each other.

My guess is the sub crosses over around 70-80hz

Sub is the only thing producing at 45hz where you say it’s doing nothing. Again, I think my system is working fine.

For reference I used this app

‎Signal Generator: Audio Test Tone Utility
Surprised the door woofers don’t cross over significantly higher than 80hz. That’s very low for (non-sub) woofer
 
Nothing very scientific. Took all of 5 minutes to do. Equalizer is flat, balance centered, immersion is standard.

I measured with a tone generator via Bluetooth (lots of free apps to do this). Sub falls off below 30hz. Still Audible down to 25hz, zippo at 20hz. Sub starts to cross over around 60hz. Sub Still audible at 80hz. The lower door speakers do nothing below 50hz. At 80hz sub and door speakers have modest output. I didn’t measure not sure how close they are to each other.

My guess is the sub crosses over around 70-80hz

Sub is the only thing producing at 45hz where you say it’s doing nothing. Again, I think my system is working fine.

For reference I used this app

‎Signal Generator: Audio Test Tone Utility

If what you say is true, then either my sub isn't working correctly or it's so quiet that it's not worth it to me. I shouldn't be rumbled by door speakers and then feel10x less power at 30-60hz. I'll test in the same vein as you as well and report back.
 
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