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Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update
- Thread starter skrtskrt
- Start date
After going through a lot of music testing out what has a lot of sub-bass to test the subwoofer, I came up with these as good tests for me to evaluate how well my sub is working:
I will use them to compare the new sub I try to mount in there in an effort to improve the sound.
Part of these tracks should make it feel like the fillings are about to pop out of your teeth if the subwoofer is working properly.
I imagine that many people wouldn't like such bass heavy music, but some of us are into it.
I will use them to compare the new sub I try to mount in there in an effort to improve the sound.
Part of these tracks should make it feel like the fillings are about to pop out of your teeth if the subwoofer is working properly.
I imagine that many people wouldn't like such bass heavy music, but some of us are into it.
CapnOMatic
Member
While doing more experiments in this area, I noticed something else:
The audio ducking when opening the door doesn’t always ‘un duck’ when you close the door again. It seems it may be related to a seat sensor. For instance I noticed the following:
#1 If I stay in drivers seat and open door (audio then ducks), the close the door again (while still in the drivers seat) the audio volume jumps back to the normal level.
#2 If I stay in the drivers seat and open the door (audio then ducks), then LIFT MY BUTT OFF THE SEAT, and close the door, audio is STILL DUCKED, even after I sit back down.
This seems like some sort of possible bug/defect in the ‘unducking’ logic. Shouldn’t it at least put the volume back up once it detects you are back in your seat?
Also it is a little hard to watch this behavior as there isn’t an always visible master volume. You have to keep tapping on the volume button on the screen to see when it ducks and unducks.
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Although not a typical "use case", I could see the above happening in this scenario:
Driver and passenger open their doors and passenger gets out.
Driver leans over to pull the passenger door closed (temporarily lifting themselves off of the seat.)
While they are doing that someone else pushes the driver door closed from the outside.
Then I think the audio would be left in the reduced volume level.
Another scenario:
Driver and passenger open their doors and driver gets out.
Passenger leans over and pulls the driver's door closed from the inside.
Passenger then closes their door.
I haven't tried that one, but could imagine it doing the same thing.
I think some of us have been doing some jumping in and out of the car trying to listen to the subwoofer output in the rear, so it may be important to understand what the car has decides to do with the volume level when you are trying to check out the subwoofer. Ideally you would have someone always in the driver's seat while doing that... Or maybe just something heavy placed on the driver's seat so that that the volume ducking always resets when you close the driver's door.
The audio ducking when opening the door doesn’t always ‘un duck’ when you close the door again. It seems it may be related to a seat sensor. For instance I noticed the following:
#1 If I stay in drivers seat and open door (audio then ducks), the close the door again (while still in the drivers seat) the audio volume jumps back to the normal level.
#2 If I stay in the drivers seat and open the door (audio then ducks), then LIFT MY BUTT OFF THE SEAT, and close the door, audio is STILL DUCKED, even after I sit back down.
This seems like some sort of possible bug/defect in the ‘unducking’ logic. Shouldn’t it at least put the volume back up once it detects you are back in your seat?
Also it is a little hard to watch this behavior as there isn’t an always visible master volume. You have to keep tapping on the volume button on the screen to see when it ducks and unducks.
--------------------------
Although not a typical "use case", I could see the above happening in this scenario:
Driver and passenger open their doors and passenger gets out.
Driver leans over to pull the passenger door closed (temporarily lifting themselves off of the seat.)
While they are doing that someone else pushes the driver door closed from the outside.
Then I think the audio would be left in the reduced volume level.
Another scenario:
Driver and passenger open their doors and driver gets out.
Passenger leans over and pulls the driver's door closed from the inside.
Passenger then closes their door.
I haven't tried that one, but could imagine it doing the same thing.
I think some of us have been doing some jumping in and out of the car trying to listen to the subwoofer output in the rear, so it may be important to understand what the car has decides to do with the volume level when you are trying to check out the subwoofer. Ideally you would have someone always in the driver's seat while doing that... Or maybe just something heavy placed on the driver's seat so that that the volume ducking always resets when you close the driver's door.
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mtndrew1
Active Member
I wish the duck/unduck door/seat thing would pop up the system master volume indicator each time it changed the volume. That would make it easier to see what it is doing.
It might also be nice if the master volume slider was showing on the EQ screen as well since they work together.
It might also be nice if the master volume slider was showing on the EQ screen as well since they work together.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
I don't know that I ever saw you provide a readout of what the Tesla ranger was able to determine on your Friday service appointment.
Here you go: Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update
I'm waiting for a very obvious reoccurrence of the problem to submit a new bug report through the voice prompts.
Had a mobile serviceman come fix some of my alignment issues today and mentioned about the sound system issue and he goes to the back of the car and says you're subwoofers are working. Yeah they're working but not as they use to lol. He was clueless and just told me to report a bug next time. *sigh*
Reminder: I found that lowering my rear seat backs has restored some of that missing bass I remember from months ago.
I also saw in someone's Youtube video that there is some kind of moving air-vent baffles in the body cut-out under/behind the subwoofer.
Maybe it is there so when you slam the trunk shut, the air pressure has some place to escape?
Yet another theory to offer up: Maybe something could be stuck open and maybe letting some of the low frequency sounds waves / air pressure escape out of the wrong place... (?)
I also saw in someone's Youtube video that there is some kind of moving air-vent baffles in the body cut-out under/behind the subwoofer.
Maybe it is there so when you slam the trunk shut, the air pressure has some place to escape?
Yet another theory to offer up: Maybe something could be stuck open and maybe letting some of the low frequency sounds waves / air pressure escape out of the wrong place... (?)
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I have to wonder if that’s part of the problem.
I listen around 80%
Whenever your dealing with DAC’s, ADC’s, AMP’s, Preamp’s you need to “match your levels” to get the best dynamic range at each transition point.
For example if your Bluetooth volume is low and you compensate by boosting the car way up, it will sound like crap. Turn up the Bluetooth and the car down (same perceived level) but now you have much richer sound. Because your not overworking one component in the chain.
Now sources do vary a lot. But l’m typically in that 70-80 range on all sources.
I know preference differ also but to me 50% is where I might turn it down to have a conversation.
I’m sure there are multiple levels buried in the system. And if one is improperly maxed out it would force you to turn it down and the performance would be less than ideal.
I still wonder if the ducking when you open the door is related to the problem.
I listen modestly loud but nothing that crazy. I also don’t make my EQ any more lopsided than it already is.
EV-lutioin
Active Member
Here is a comparison video my son made about the possible reduction of bass output in the Model 3:
Original video here:
Original video here:
scott jones
Member
When I first got my Model 3 in October, system sounded great. Then I noticed i was having to turn the sound up WELL past 50% to hear the same volume. Thought it was just my imagination. Then I noticed the quality sounded like crap... (better than alarm clock, but I agree with that analogy). Sometimes it comes back. I usually listen to streaming and some songs are better than others by a lot. It MAKES NO SENSE. It has to be something they've done/undone to the software. When I move the fader to the back, it's as if the there is almost no sound, or so little you'd have to crank to 100% just to hear it. Rear speakers are basically useless and I have no idea there is even a sub.
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