Sound System Upgrade

[beatle]

Basically nothing. Unless you're blasting sine waves at the clipping point, a 1000w amp will use more like 150w on average while listening to music. As an example, if your car gets 310wh/mi and you drive 60 miles in an hour, it will use 18.6kwh. Your amp will use 0.015kwh.

 

[upkerry14]

I don't know where you live but I went to

Hi-Tech Car Audio | Mobile audio, Security, and Window Tinting

in El Cerrito. The guy there has worked on a lot of Teslas and they installed a killer stereo system in my Model 3. Highly recommended.
Bill
ps. not cheap but worth it as I am retiring soon and want my tunes baby!

 

[tcoombes]

It is possible, but there would be a lot of work. Check out this thread and you can get a rough idea about what would be involved. My post #38 gets into some detail about a Tesla premium upgrade to a Tesla base sound system. Most practical upgrade might be aftermarket, but it’s nice to consider alternatives.

I retrofit MCU2, IC2, Tuner2, and FSD Computer into my HW2.0 Car

 

[Pinegreen]

Just curious if anyone with a UHFS system tried installing the Axxera speaker for the front door? It's a dual voice coil 4 ohm speaker, so wiring it in parallel should give you 2 ohms. I'd like to try to keep an upgrade simple. I already tried the 6.5" BA Designs "upgrade" but I couldn't hear much (if any) difference (installed one side to compare).

Axxera AXM804DVC 8" dual voice coil midrange speaker at Crutchfield

 

[beatle]

The stock system is EQ'd a fair amount and gains will be somewhat limited until you correct that with a DSP.

Those Axxera speakers are listed as midranges that only go down to 80hz. You'll want a midbass speaker or at least a full range speaker to go in the door if you are not applying EQ or adding power. Adding sound damping material can have a bigger impact on SQ and will lower the noise floor. If I were only looking to spend 100-150 on the stereo, that is where I would put my dollars.

 

[2101Guy]

Having just installed the NVX Sub/Amp kit, the second knob is from the Amp. With this kit, the box with the line out converter comes with a knob as does the amp box. So there are two knobs and two RJ11 long wires. I ended up not using the one that came with the amp but rather, the one that came with the converted. Plugged the knob into the converter and used that one only.

The install went fine, but a couple of notes:
Tesla appears to change wiring colors as the years go by. For finding the correct speaker wires to tap into in the footwells, I suggest (unless you are sure) taking 5 minutes to remove the 3 bolts from each door panel, pry back just the top front corner of each front doorpanel, and looking downward where you can clearly see the colors of the two wires going into each front door speaker. You can then easily look back down to where the rubber accordian boot (which contains all wires going into the door from the wiring panel in the footwell) in the doorjamb goes to inside the cabin. Find the two color wires that went into the speaker and use those four (two each side) to tap into for signal.

For 12v switched, I used a Micro2 sized Fuse Tap to tap into the 12v accessory fuse in the passenger side. I believe its the third horizontal fuse from the top. 15amp fuse was already in that slot for me. Some say its 5amp.