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Spare Switched 12V Circuit on Model S built after July 2014

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Isn't this the other way round? The female connector (the one with sockets) has the power, and you need to add a male connector (the one with pins) to your equipment.

I don't think so, based on:

a) the picture in the tech bulletin, as compared to the picture posted a few posts back. They appear consistent, and I think the power is on that extra pin. And
b) a poster several pages back talked about using the wire from a power supply, and bending the round end to fit

So I'm pretty sure we need a female end, but I could be wrong.
 
I don't think so, based on:

a) the picture in the tech bulletin, as compared to the picture posted a few posts back. They appear consistent, and I think the power is on that extra pin. And
b) a poster several pages back talked about using the wire from a power supply, and bending the round end to fit

So I'm pretty sure we need a female end, but I could be wrong.
Ah, I might've misunderstood then. I thought the other poster was saying he flattened the round end to make a "pin" and stuck that into the socket.

What I still don't understand is why Tesla has provided both a male and a female connector. Where does the power go if you connect them?
 
Ah, I might've misunderstood then. I thought the other poster was saying he flattened the round end to make a "pin" and stuck that into the socket.

What I still don't understand is why Tesla has provided both a male and a female connector. Where does the power go if you connect them?

I may have misunderstood as well. Fezzik? Or someone else?

I think there are three pins, including the unused power, on the one connector, and two pins--the black and the white--on the other. You'd have to somehow get a wire in through that connector to use the power in the actual connector. Or I guess you could pull the wire out of the connector, make it just a two pin to two pin connector, and tap the power directly from the wire, without using the connector at all. I'd prefer to avoid that, though, which is why I'm asking all these questions. If I don't get good answers, I'm guessing my installer may go the "disconnect and tap" route, if there aren't any other options.

In fact Fezzik may have removed the male wire and flat-end connection from the big plastic connector, and then just connected the flattened power connector cable to it that way.

More detail from people who have used this connection would really be appreciated!
 
I know you're gunshy about "tapping the harness" but using one of these wire taps on the +12v line really is harmless (and reversible) -- something like this:

e450-4b.jpg



They're very easy to install and aren't really "splicing" anything, especially if you do it on the +12v line provided by Tesla. This is what I've done on my car (and many others) to tap for power.
 

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I know you're gunshy about "tapping the harness" but using one of these wire taps on the +12v line really is harmless (and reversible) -- something like this:
They're very easy to install and aren't really "splicing" anything, especially if you do it on the +12v line provided by Tesla. This is what I've done on my car (and many others) to tap for power.

Thanks, Hank.

That 3M Scotchlok T-Tap looks similar to the Posi-Taps that were recommended in the ArtSci Front Camera Switch Manual:

Positap.jpg

Are they roughly equivalent?

I already purchased a variety pack of the Posi-Taps. I was just hoping to improve upon that, if possible, in light of my past experience.

Thanks.
 
Yeah, similar idea.

I just can't imagine Tesla having an issue with tapping into the accessory +12v line anywhere. I don't know what your previous installers did or why Tesla got their panties into a bunch over it, but this is really very common in adding accessories to a car.

Now if the installers actually *spliced* into a bigger wiring harness I could see an issue.. but these types of vampire taps are really harmless and reversible whereas more invasive splicing into a fat wiring harness might not be.
 
I hope this gets through. I'm in a remote village in Columbia. I used a wire from a computer female molex connector and flatten that out and fed that though the connector to the pin. Right now if you looked in the connector the male pin can be seen. I took the tesla connector off to make sure it slides on and is snug and then reconnected the tesla connector and then connected it through the tesla connector

i have tons of those taps but figured if I can easily do it this way I can prevent damage to original harness
 
You need a square female connector to connect to the white and red male 1.5mm square pin.

Remember the other 12v this connector is supplying is the 12v power outlet in the center console.
So if you like to use a wire tap, T-tap go ahead, why not use this or unplugg the female connector and hook up with two connectors.
If you is not using the 12v in center console this would be easy.

I just do not like to use this if it is a better way around.
And when removed it will be a open scar in the cable, if you will pull 11A use one that can handle the current, most can't.
Have done some test on different wire taps and when you draw more than 5A lot of them is getting heat problems.
At constant 15A they quite a few have started to melt and temperature at 250C and rising in the connection.

Remember it is the current that makes the heat and 12v need current to make Wat. :)
 
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Thanks very much!

Now I just need to figure out the best way to make the connection to that wire, or hope my installer knows.

I saw Fezzik's posts about using a wire from a computer's power supply. I swapped out a power supply on a desktop unit a couple of years ago, and thought I had kept the bad one somewhere, but a preliminary search at 3:00 AM did not turn it up. It may be one of the few things I actually threw away, now that I could use it!

Edit: Would the connector on the right in the photo below be what I'm looking for?

View attachment 97742
Did you ever get this answered, or what was your final solution for your install?
 
Did you ever get this answered, or what was your final solution for your install?

Sorry. This was a year and a half ago, so my recollection is fuzzy.

I did get the front camera working on my own. I believe I got the thing apart, and then matched up the wires, and put it back together.

There is no question in my mind that others here will be able to help you far better than I can.

Good luck!