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Split UMC cable

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
After a night of charging outside is cold weather, I noticed one end of the UMC cable is split open. Had it for 8 months. Anyone else had that issue? I'll bring it in to the SC. Just curious.
 

Chris TX

Active Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,531
186
Dallas, TX
After a night of charging outside is cold weather, I noticed one end of the UMC cable is split open. Had it for 8 months. Anyone else had that issue? I'll bring it in to the SC. Just curious.

Pictures? I wonder if it might have dragged across something to cut, or does this seem like a dry rot-like situation?
 

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
There's the picture. Like the car itself, I baby everything related to my Model S. Can't remember ever mistreating that cable. Anyone seen anything like it?
22678e27f9417350b5b9253fa04a9ad5.jpg
 

Chris TX

Active Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,531
186
Dallas, TX
Looks like a box cutter gash. It looks like it's just the outer insulation, but I would get it replaced. Electrical tape should be fine, temporarily.
 

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
It does but then again, not sure how or when it would have happened. I was at cottage in the middle of the woods. Unlikely someone stopped by and decided to vandalize my cable. Plus, when you look at it closely, it is a very clean split. A cutter would have made a larger incision at the entry point. And it doesn't look like the wire itself was touched. It would take somebody very skilled to just open up the insulation. I wonder, could it be the cold weather? The rubber hardened and cracked up, especially with heat running through it?
 

islandbayy

Active Member
Feb 25, 2013
2,654
1,031
Greendale, Wisconsin
Looks like a box cutter gash. It looks like it's just the outer insulation, but I would get it replaced. Electrical tape should be fine, temporarily.
Thats what happens when poor/low quality "rubber" fatigues. That is not box cutter. I deal with this all the time on Chinese scooters I repair. Its not real rubber, it's a petroleum base, or basically, more malleable. Most likely, the plastic/fake rubber was not hot enough when it was extruded. Also, more likely to happen in cold weather. And by the looks of it, OP is in Canada.
 

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
Thats what happens when poor/low quality "rubber" fatigues. That is not box cutter. I deal with this all the time on Chinese scooters I repair. Its not real rubber, it's a petroleum base, or basically, more malleable. Most likely, the plastic/fake rubber was not hot enough when it was extruded. Also, more likely to happen in cold weather. And by the looks of it, OP is in Canada.

Yep, am in Canada. Plus I was at a cottage in the mountains. Coldest night so far this Fall.
 

islandbayy

Active Member
Feb 25, 2013
2,654
1,031
Greendale, Wisconsin
Yep, am in Canada. Plus I was at a cottage in the mountains. Coldest night so far this Fall.
Yep, that stuff is extremely pliable at warm temps, once it gets cold... Lets put it this way, had a floor mat from a Chinese scooter. At 10*F outside, I was able to toss it in the air and it shattered when it hit ground. I hope whats on the UMC isn't that poor of quality though.
 

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
So I called support who directed me to my local SC. Stopped by Thursday and they swapped my UMC for a new one. Said first time they saw that. As usual, super easy and friendly staff. Was all effortless!

Hadn't tried the new UMC until today and I'm afraid I must be not doing something. I plug it in. Green light is on but the button won't open the charge port. Opened manually and plugged in, ring stays white, plug doesn't lock in and UMC doesn't charge. Tried Reset several times to no avail. Also tried both 5-15 and 14-50 adapters and sources.

Meanwhile car charges fine using my HPWC.

Is there a pairing process with a new UMC that I somehow missed?
 

islandbayy

Active Member
Feb 25, 2013
2,654
1,031
Greendale, Wisconsin
So I called support who directed me to my local SC. Stopped by Thursday and they swapped my UMC for a new one. Said first time they saw that. As usual, super easy and friendly staff. Was all effortless!

Hadn't tried the new UMC until today and I'm afraid I must be not doing something. I plug it in. Green light is on but the button won't open the charge port. Opened manually and plugged in, ring stays white, plug doesn't lock in and UMC doesn't charge. Tried Reset several times to no avail. Also tried both 5-15 and 14-50 adapters and sources.

Meanwhile car charges fine using my HPWC.

Is there a pairing process with a new UMC that I somehow missed?
No, another defective UMC.
 

qwk

P130DL
Dec 19, 2008
3,024
766
I've gone through 15 in 2 1/2 years. Though, I finally found the problem I was having was due to charging at 40 amps every night. Once I limited it to 32 amp or less, no more problems.
I'm on #10 myself. Also charging at 40A. You are 100% correct, the UMC cannot take constant 40A charging.
 

steilkurve

Member
Mar 28, 2015
877
279
Montreal, Canada
I'm on #10 myself. Also charging at 40A. You are 100% correct, the UMC cannot take constant 40A charging.

Perhaps but this one was a replacement I just got from Tesla. Never charged once, let alone at 40A.

Are defective units out of the box common?

There is really nothing I need to do to 'pair' a new UMC?
 

islandbayy

Active Member
Feb 25, 2013
2,654
1,031
Greendale, Wisconsin
Perhaps but this one was a replacement I just got from Tesla. Never charged once, let alone at 40A.

Are defective units out of the box common?

There is really nothing I need to do to 'pair' a new UMC?
No, but it does happen. Call Tesla Support, they will FedEX one to you with a return label if you are further distance from a service center.
 

mikeash

Active Member
Oct 26, 2014
1,105
703
Fairfax, VA, USA
There is really nothing I need to do to 'pair' a new UMC?

The UMC is just a J1772 charger with a custom connector. J1772 is a pretty simple protocol, basically just different resistors and duty cycles on the control pins to tell the car how much current it can draw, and for the car to tell the charger when it wants power. There's nothing in there to communicate a car or charger identifier.

In short, no pairing process, it should just work when plugged in.
 

Cyclone

Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Jan 12, 2015
5,058
1,143
Charlotte, NC
Before going through all that, have you checks to see the pins are clean and there isn't something gunked up in the connecter where it plugs into the car?
 

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