Greenville also has a Supercharger. It might be a decent option for those few days per year when you don't think you'll be able to make the round trip.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
SR+ vs LR for long commuting
- Thread starter Tippytj2
- Start date
Greenville also has a Supercharger. It might be a decent option for those few days per year when you don't think you'll be able to make the round trip.
Yeah, it’s just on i40 about 15min out of the way from how I would commute on 25, but could def work in a pinch if it’s clear I might have a problem. I’m also hoping my new employer has some availability of charging in the garage (even level 1), but it’s not clear, I haven’t had a chance to check it out in person yet, and I don’t want to have to rely on it.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
SoCal weather is temperate sunny for most of the year (70-90F). Where I drive, December to February can be rainy (no ice/snow) with temperature in low 30s to high 50s.
Summer is dry, not much wind, high 70s upwards of 110F.
Rain cuts efficiency down to 75%, from the average low 80%. Summer seems to be better in efficiency.
To recap, my route and driving averages low 80% efficiency - I burn 100 miles EPA rated range on a 80 mile trip. I keep HVAC at 70° Auto all the time.
So my drive, from Menifee to San Diego is a roller coaster of small mountain down to about sea level in San Diego.
I usually leave early so no traffic at 4AM on the 80 mile trip (75 miles on Nav on Auto Pilot, freeway, going 70-80 mph, 5 miles city street).
The return trip is 4PM, from sea level then up over the small mountains, with rush hour traffic in SD and by Temecula - making the 80 mile return trip 20 miles of bumper bumper traffic, and 60 mile freeway but 65-75 mph.
From TezLab: Feb is winter/rainy month. Aug hotter summer, and May is usual weather for most of the year.
Attachments
Great data. Looks like elevation isn’t a huge hit in a round-trip scenario, probably <10% rated range. Rain seems like ~5% efficiency loss. I’m still curious about cold weather, which seems like the issue for me - I will definitely want to drive it in 15-20deg weather.
Just drove my friend’s ‘21 M3 LR this evening, def appealing. The thing that I think could work well for my use case is regular charging to 70-80%, so not worrying about how charging to 100% might affect longevity, and generally more performance and AWD which is peace of mind if the weather turns sour. Plus I’ll have some range buffer if battery declines during my use and can just push beginning charge to 85-90% toward end of life cycle if needed.
LFP will probably be fine, I’m just a little wary of actually charging to 100% daily, and if I can’t do that, then I loose some range security for a 140mi commute, potentially in poor conditions where RWD could be an issue. Plus it’s pretty sweet to go fast occasionally.
Just drove my friend’s ‘21 M3 LR this evening, def appealing. The thing that I think could work well for my use case is regular charging to 70-80%, so not worrying about how charging to 100% might affect longevity, and generally more performance and AWD which is peace of mind if the weather turns sour. Plus I’ll have some range buffer if battery declines during my use and can just push beginning charge to 85-90% toward end of life cycle if needed.
LFP will probably be fine, I’m just a little wary of actually charging to 100% daily, and if I can’t do that, then I loose some range security for a 140mi commute, potentially in poor conditions where RWD could be an issue. Plus it’s pretty sweet to go fast occasionally.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
Today, Aug 12th, Tesla stopped new orders for LR AWD Model 3 in the US. You may be able to convert your RWD order to LR....
Attachments
Knew this would happen. Bill passes house, now LR, which is one of the most likely models to qualify for rebate under new law if priced <$55k, is off the market until Tesla can figure out if they want to change the price by a few thousand bucks to qualify. Hopefully they reduce price to $55k without taking features/range away and simultaneously reduce price of RWD (which is unlikely to qualify without waiver due to CATL LFP).
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
It’s nearly zero if the grades are low enough to not push you into regen.
It’s only 1300-foot difference between Greenville and Asheville though I am familiar with the one downhill grade as I have driven it once (which probably does give some regen). And there is up and down as well.
Anyway this would make nearly zero difference on your round trip.
The data so far on NCA vs LFP suggest NCA will probably do worse than LFP on capacity loss, but it is really too early to say and I haven’t paid close attention. Someone would have to compare one-year results for each.
Definitely expect 20% for your use case from the NCA. Most likely you’ll end up closer to 10-15% but budget 20%.
Sitting at 70-80% is about the worst for calendar aging, apparently; worse than 100%, but 70-80% increases the number of cycles you can do of course, so it is probably not actually worse than 100% since you are using the car (no one should repeatedly charge to 100% in NCA unless they need to of course). Anyway, it is not a concern for you, since if you just set the charge to complete right before leaving you’ll still have fairly low average SOC.
Anyway LR seems fine and you should pick the vehicle that works best for you. LR is nicer for other long-distance trips you might do since it charges faster and has a bit more range.
FYI I can’t edit my M3 RWD order to M3 LR anymore either. I’m guessing they’ll try to fulfill all orders of 2022 M3 LR at current price, then release 2023 LR at reduced price with “software range update” for a few thousand bucks so they can get price below $55k. They apparently did this in Canada already to qualify for subsidy. They won’t tolerate delivery delays anymore either…it’s really making me want to buy a used ‘21 LR w/ 15k mi, FSD and extended warranty for $60k and forget about it since I don’t think my income will qualify anyway once we run the tax numbers.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
I speculate they will reduce the base price to $55K with an option to buy AP for $3K after delivery.
Have you tried to edit thru this:
www.tesla.com/teslaaccount/edit-design/RNXXXXXXXXX
Makes sense. I’m kinda shocked elevation makes such little difference, though I wonder if it’d make more difference in LFP with lower charge density. What I was reading about calendar aging is it really deteriorated above 60-70%, but is minimal below that, that’s why I use 70% as benchmark for my needs, but varies by chemistry (figure from LFP thread)
W/ LR NCA my use should be OK for calendar aging if I set it to charge to 70-80% only right before use, so, like you say, my average SOC is closer to ~50%. Supposedly it won’t matter if I charge the LFP to 100% in the same manner, though I still find this dubious in the real world, and it’ll then be parked at work at 70-80% charge for 10hrs per workday. Guess only time will tell.
Didn’t work. Maybe they’ll let me change it later once they release pricing details. I’m still not sure I’ll qualify by income; it’ll be close. I’d just hate to make a decision now based on the rebate only to find out I don’t qualify come tax season.I speculate they will reduce the base price to $55K with an option to buy AP for $3K after delivery.
Have you tried to edit thru this:
www.tesla.com/teslaaccount/edit-design/RNXXXXXXXXX
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Again: It’s only negligible on round trips, and if regen doesn’t come into the picture much. You’ll see a big difference in the two directions (about 3-4kWh difference).
Ideally you do no regen and don’t use the brakes. That’s most efficient.
Charging to 70% for a new Model 3 RWD with LFP battery will give 190 miles of rated range (this is similar to a new Model 3 LR charged to 55%). If you drive as economically as the EPA, then you will do your 140 mile round trip with 50 miles to spare. (Are you able to rent or borrow a Model 3 to see how many rated miles you will use up on your 140 round trip?)
Of course, if you are worried about the BMS issue, charge to 100% once per week. You can also minimize time spent at higher state of charge by setting the charge to finish just before you drive off.
One other thing that may force your choice is that the LR is grayed out in the order selection at Design Your Model 3 | Tesla . I.e. only RWD and P can be selected. Note: when ordering the RWD (or LR when available), the default is the extra cost 19" sport wheels. Choose the 18" aero wheels for lower cost and a few more miles of range.
Really nice description of the drive, weather, etc. I live in Temecula and Commute to Oceanside. I used to commute every day, but now its 2-3 days a week. Its a shorter drive than yours, but its the same basic conditions since I am driving a portion of the the exact same drive you are doing.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Loss may have been handled differently on those vehicles. You would have to know your actual true initial capacity and final capacity to know. Anyway, for Model 3, 20% BMS estimate is definitely high but not that unusual for NCA, particularly for some manufacturing dates. 2019 SR+ seemed particularly bad. More typical is 10-15% at this point.
Prodock
Member
I’m on the other end of the state. I drive 100 miles round trip from Emerald Isle to Vanceboro and back everyday. I’m also driving a MYP, originally with 302 mile range but I have somewhere around 290 after 15k miles. I don’t drive conservative at all and still use about 40 percent of the battery daily, this hasn’t changed at all. I will say in the dead of winter it uses about 42 percent. Either M3 should do just fine for you. Once you drive it a few times the anxiety will lesson 100 fold. Also, we’ve driven it through the Virginia and WV mountains and I was completely surprised at how little it affected the efficiency. In fact our wh/mi was better in the mountains than anywhere else on that trip.
My 2022 RWD M3 (LFP) has degraded only 2% in the first 8 months / 8000 miles I've had it. My 2020 MY reported 9% degradation in the same period. The M3 was often charged to 100%, and my MY was only charged to 100% a few times. The good news is that after 26 months and 35K miles, my degradation is at the same 9% (294 miles).
The M3 is reports its range as 267 miles, and it can actually go that far driven at 60 MPH. My MY reports a range of 294 miles and can go around the same distance as the M3.
The highest I can daily charge my AWD MY is 90%, where the LFP can be charged to 100% every day.
Bottom line:
1) My M3 can go farther with a daily charge.
2) The LFP battery is less to worry about and degrades slower.
Bring the LFP to more cars please!
The M3 is reports its range as 267 miles, and it can actually go that far driven at 60 MPH. My MY reports a range of 294 miles and can go around the same distance as the M3.
The highest I can daily charge my AWD MY is 90%, where the LFP can be charged to 100% every day.
Bottom line:
1) My M3 can go farther with a daily charge.
2) The LFP battery is less to worry about and degrades slower.
Bring the LFP to more cars please!
2 years ago, I was considering the same decision: SR+ or LR. I was talking about it to my beloved late father, and he said “You are never going to say ‘gee, I wash I had gotten the shorter range car’”. I got the LR. Good thing too because it makes it easier for trips other than my commute.
Similar threads
