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Steering and Vibration on a Brand New MY

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Wondering if anyone had similar issues recently with a new MY:

We took a delivery of our first Tesla on 7/15/21 (MY LR with upgraded wheels). Driving right off the lot, we noticed the car had high frequency vibration at highway speeds, would wonder left, right and the steering wheel had to be turned 2-3 degrees for the car to go straight.

Came home and decided to check wheel lug nut torque. Was able to turn each nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn when torqueing to 128 lb. ft. This means that the wheels were somewhat lose when left the factory. The car drove better, but still had some pool, steering wheel crocked and vibration.

Was able to ask for an appointment at a Tesla SC within 5 days from the delivery as oppose to 3 weeks available through the app. The SC did alignment and told me that they though that balance is not an issue, hence, they did not attempt it. The car still has some vibration at high speed and handling a odd, not like a test drive car we drove before ordering.

I noticed that one of the front wheels has a huge (not exaggerating) balance weight attached (see the pic). Wonder if it contributes to this issue or if the foam inside may have something to do with it.

Has anyone had similar issues with new MYs?
 

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Can you be a bit more specific about the speed? Within a certain range of highway speed? At what speed do you first notice it?
The big balance weight is not an issue in my opinion. You should see the ones on my wheels, yet my car drives perfectly smooth and vibration free up to 90 mph. Never taken it above that speed.
 
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I have the same symptoms. Vibration through the steering column and seat at a moderate frequency at any speed over 30 mph, alignment is off - I have to hold steering wheel right 3 to 5 degrees to go straight, when steering wheel is perfectly centered I wander left. Vibration doesn't seem to get better or worse with speed, however it does seem to come and go - its more noticeable sometimes vs others. Unable to pinpoint it, earliest service appointment is 3 weeks out.

MY LR 5, Induction Wheels, Delivery 8/17.
 
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...or...it's simply a balance issue. Steering wheel off center? Alignment issue.

1) try to isolate which corner the vibration is coming from. Otherwise, SC, OR DiscountTire, needs to balance each wheel. This will probably solve your problem
2) FE alignment? This should have been corrected PRIOR to delivery. If the SC didn't check this, they should correct it, free of charge.

FYI, I've got 19" Apollo wheels (no Gemini caps), ContiContactPro OEM tires. At 13k miles, perfectly smooth, all the way to 110mph (west TX, smooth road). Also, perfectly straight tracking with ZERO input from me, or AutoSteer. Steering wheel is perfectly centered.

Seriously, guys, your cars should be just as smooth, with perfectly straight tracking. The same is true for the cheapest entry-level Nissan, Toyota, etc.

(FYI: All four of my wheels were torqued to 75 lb/ft. I corrected it, informed the SC, they weren't overly concerned. This would have nothing to do with wheel balance, unless lugnuts were actually loose)
 
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...or...it's simply a balance issue. Steering wheel off center? Alignment issue.

1) try to isolate which corner the vibration is coming from. Otherwise, SC, OR DiscountTire, needs to balance each wheel. This will probably solve your problem
2) FE alignment? This should have been corrected PRIOR to delivery. If the SC didn't check this, they should correct it, free of charge.

FYI, I've got 19" Apollo wheels (no Gemini caps), ContiContactPro OEM tires. At 13k miles, perfectly smooth, all the way to 110mph (west TX, smooth road). Also, perfectly straight tracking with ZERO input from me, or AutoSteer. Steering wheel is perfectly centered.

Seriously, guys, your cars should be just as smooth, with perfectly straight tracking. The same is true for the cheapest entry-level Nissan, Toyota, etc.

(FYI: All four of my wheels were torqued to 75 lb/ft. I corrected it, informed the SC, they weren't overly concerned. This would have nothing to do with wheel balance, unless lugnuts were actually loose)
 
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My month old Model 3 long range has an occasional high frequency vibration at 60-80 mph when one of the front wheels touches the lane dividing bumps. It only lasts a couple of seconds. I took it in for service, and they said they balanced the wheels and road tested the car with no vibration. But nothing has changed. It still vibrates.
 
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My month old Model 3 long range has an occasional high frequency vibration at 60-80 mph when one of the front wheels touches the lane dividing bumps. It only lasts a couple of seconds. I took it in for service, and they said they balanced the wheels and road tested the car with no vibration. But nothing has changed. It still vibrates.
What is your Lane Departure Avoidance set to? That sounds like the Warning setting to me.
 
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Feel it above 65 MPH, more noticeable at 80 MPH. The vibration is not typical low frequency vibration that I felt in other cars that had wheel balance problems. It is rather high frequency.

This sounds more like the wheels need to be taken off and re-balanced, and then maybe get an alignment afterwards.

Could possibly be the foam starting to separate inside the tire, but in other cars I've driven & experience something similar it's usually a wheel balance issue.
 
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does anyone TEST DRIVE their car before they buy it anymore?
You must be new here.

That's not how Tesla works. You can't even GET INTO the car unless you've paid in full. Many people (TOO many, IMO) choose home delivery, where the car just shows up, rarely at the time agreed upon.

With ANY car purchase, before or after contracts have been signed/delivery taken, I will put the car through a rather vigorous (never aggressive!) "test drive." I drive on roads I know well, listening, paying attention to tire/wheel balance, alignment. Any minor wheel throb/drifting alignment, is usually discussed THE SAME DAY with the service department. (I'm at 13k miles, and every drive STILL feels like a test drive. I'm positively anal about tires. In the heat of TX, you have to be, if you need to drive in rural areas.)

Wheel/tire vibration is NEVER self-healing. NEVER! It only gets worse.
 
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