Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Steering "Dead Zone" with 14' P85D

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
BTW just in case anyone has a similar issue, I was able to resolve this after the FIVE service requests and some elbow grease on my part.

TL;DR: This bolt that holds the intermediate shaft universal joint had loosened, causing the play that I had experienced:
1646150307859.png


Full Story

4th Visit:
After my last post, I took it in to Tesla in the fall of 2021 and explained everything that I had researched and observed including the borescope footage of the universal joint slipping on the steering rack shaft. I explained about the 3 other times I had come in with the issue but this time they refused to look at my car, refused to watch the video of the shaft slipping, and insisted that their Master Technician had previously looked at it and said that this was normal and in-line for a car this age. When I pushed back, he he said he would have his Master Technician look at it again. Less than 5 minutes later, he returned saying that it looked normal. I told him that it wasn't normal and that I was very disappointed since I love this car but hated to drive it now because it felt so bad. He actually pointed over to the sales reps in the showroom and said, "You can talk to them if you'd like to get a new car", he thanked me, and walked back to the Service Center.

After that encounter, I was so frustrated that I took a bit of a break from working on it. Since I don't drive much, I took the Model Y places and the Model S sadly sat in the garage, gathering dust.

Home Work:
Earlier in February, I started to get the itch to revisit the issue as I kept looking at videos of Plaids, etc (my way of stopping myself from buying one 😂). I removed the frunk liner and everything else required and fired up a newer, higher resolution borescope that I had purchased. What I discovered is that there was a little green line marked on that bolt & joint that was not lined up:
1646152367316.png

With the steering quite difficult to reach in the dual-motor S', I put together about 16" of extensions plus a wobble socket. I was able to get some decent access to the bolt by going over the driver's side axel. After a LOT of attempts, I was able to get the socket seated well on the bolt and gave it a turn until the torque wrench limit hit at 40ft-lbs (up from the 37ft-lbs @Gtech mentioned to accommodate for some reduction from the wobble socket). After a follow-up inspection with the borescope, the paint was closer to lining up, but not perfect. When testing, I noticed that the steering wheel play was gone but unfortunately, there was now a quiet popping noise and slight slipping only when turning hard to the left. Overall feel was MUCH improved over the sloppiness of before though. I was thankful for the audible sound and feeling because now Tesla couldn't deny that there was anything "normal" about this.

Since my car needed the recall for the secondary hood latch, I figured I would give it one last go and put this issue down to be worked on as well. Unfortunately, the nearest appointment was weeks away, so I waited....

Fifth Visit:
The last two times I had brought my car in, the service employee who "helped" me was the gruff, non-committal Service Manager. He was always very quick to dismiss everything and would never confirm if something could, should, or would be fixed. Thankfully I did not see him around that day and I got to work with Tiffany at the San Antonio SC, who is GREAT BTW. She went out to the car with me, sat in the driver's seat, immediately noticed the popping/slipping and said that they would fix it. After 5 hours or so, she called me back and said that they had gotten it resolved and they had found a bolt that was "out of torque spec" 😛. I was still very apprehensive at this point but when we picked up the car the next day (coincidentally to drop off the Model Y for a seat bolster issue), it handled like a DREAM again!

It made me so happy to have my car back to the way it was! It was almost a year and a half since I first noticed the issue so I had almost forgotten how it felt before the slipping. Everything is tight, compliant, and exactly how it should be. Although I'd still love a Plaid, maybe in the future, as this one still has some life left in her 🙂

Bonus: The Model Y's passenger seat was missing some foam in the right bolster and when we picked it up, she had a brand new seat WITH power lumbar 😎
 
  • Like
Reactions: Olle and SoCal Buzz
That's one hell of a story, I really can't believe that they wave away safety concerns so easily.

Awesome you fixed it by yourself. Don't believe the popping noise is coming from the bolt you torqued. Mostly it's the 2 main bolts from your steering rack that cause popping noises but anyway your issue is fixed that's all that matters
It worries me how quickly the Service Manager of all people did it too... Sad for sure.

That would make sense about the steering rack being the source of the popping. I checked again with the borescope after I got it back and it doesn't look like the bolt I tightened was messed with (paint is in the same place in before/after pictures).

Very impressive diagnosis and repair! And pathetic lack of customer service from Tesla. They should be embarrassed to treat customers in that manner.
Thank you! It was a long journey, but I'm glad to have my S back :)
I've never really been all-in on a car brand before Tesla but man, I was close to looking elsewhere after the Service Manager told me I was welcome to buy a new car instead of them correcting an obvious safety issue with mine....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Olle
Reviving this thread because it's exact. Also a Dec'14 P85D here. Steering play, etc. During another service, they find the U-joint of the arm has play, replace anyways. Battery is already out, but still get charged the full .75hr book time :D Happy to not have to do this one myself, though.

Anyways, question is this: Part written as replacement is:

I-SHAFT STEERING LINK - NON ISOLATOR - LOWER (1030622-00-A)

Now, I thought the "isolated" part, the one with a boot completely fixes the issue, preventing dirt, rust, etc. from failing the joint in the future. But both parts listed in EPC catalog are "NON ISOLATOR" (There are two listed with that same name in EPC right now, 1030622-00-A and 1507140-00-A).

Does the newer "isolated" part not fit our cars? Bjørn's video above makes it seem like it should. Odd Tesla would put back in the old style.
 
I-SHAFT STEERING LINK - NON ISOLATOR - LOWER (1030622-00-A)

Now, I thought the "isolated" part, the one with a boot completely fixes the issue, preventing dirt, rust, etc. from failing the joint in the future. But both parts listed in EPC catalog are "NON ISOLATOR" (There are two listed with that same name in EPC right now, 1030622-00-A and 1507140-00-A).

Does the newer "isolated" part not fit our cars? Bjørn's video above makes it seem like it should. Odd Tesla would put back in the old style.
That is interesting! I looked back through my Service Center records and they never replaced the steering link on mine, only tightened the bolt on it. Last time I took out the frunk and had a look in there, mine definitely doesn't have the isolator either.

Strange, as I've seen that Bjørn video as well and figured this would standard practice to mount those, especially in colder climates.
 
Today I fixed my issue

View attachment 682998

View attachment 682997

U joint is really bad, besides some slack also hard to rotate.

Car is fixed, I'm happy. Hopefully you will have the same result.

If someone wants to know the part for RWD cars is 1030622-00-A and bolts are torqued with 50nm (37 ft lbs)
Today I fixed my issue

View attachment 682998

View attachment 682997

U joint is really bad, besides some slack also hard to rotate.

Car is fixed, I'm happy. Hopefully you will have the same result.

If someone wants to know the part for RWD cars is 1030622-00-A and bolts are torqued with 50nm (37 ft lbs)
Hey StoicKiwi, Gtech and all

I recently made a replacement of the lower U-joint for the valentine, Santa
Today I fixed my issue

View attachment 682998

View attachment 682997

U joint is really bad, besides some slack also hard to rotate.

Car is fixed, I'm happy. Hopefully you will have the same result.

If someone wants to know the part for RWD cars is 1030622-00-A and bolts are torqued with 50nm (37 ft lbs)
Hey StoicKiwi, Gtech and all,

2016 Model S 85D

I have just made a replacement for the i-shaft lower U-joint, however, I think I have messed up the process when connecting the I-shaft to the steering rack and steering column.

IMG_8846.jpeg


I didn’t maintain steering position while reassemble the shaft to the steering column since I was trying to spin the steering wheel to align the joint and the I-shaft to position.

I did mark the position of the upper u-joint of the i-shaft that connect to the steering column. So the position for the steering column shud be okay

IMG_8792.jpeg


Since I probably lost with the steering wheel position while disassembling and reassembling the I-shaft despite marked the joint with marker pen.

1. steering assist reduced, park assist, automatic emergency braking, stability control and traction control are all disabled.

2. All buttons on the steering wheel including the Horn are gone too.

3. After deep power off, while the steering is straight, the steering wheel would automatically turn itself fully to one side (right side) then warning signals. On the other hand, when full lock to the left previously, the steering wheel won’t turn automatically, just shows the related warning signals right away.

Please would anyone can advise on what i could have possibly done wrong?


Btw, StoicKiwi & Gtech, your information are spot on! Thanks you very much!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8852.jpeg
    IMG_8852.jpeg
    419.9 KB · Views: 33
Hey StoicKiwi, Gtech and all

I recently made a replacement of the lower U-joint for the valentine, Santa

Hey StoicKiwi, Gtech and all,

2016 Model S 85D

I have just made a replacement for the i-shaft lower U-joint, however, I think I have messed up the process when connecting the I-shaft to the steering rack and steering column.

View attachment 985379

I didn’t maintain steering position while reassemble the shaft to the steering column since I was trying to spin the steering wheel to align the joint and the I-shaft to position.

I did mark the position of the upper u-joint of the i-shaft that connect to the steering column. So the position for the steering column shud be okay

View attachment 985376

Since I probably lost with the steering wheel position while disassembling and reassembling the I-shaft despite marked the joint with marker pen.

1. steering assist reduced, park assist, automatic emergency braking, stability control and traction control are all disabled.

2. All buttons on the steering wheel including the Horn are gone too.

3. After deep power off, while the steering is straight, the steering wheel would automatically turn itself fully to one side (right side) then warning signals. On the other hand, when full lock to the left previously, the steering wheel won’t turn automatically, just shows the related warning signals right away.

Please would anyone can advise on what i could have possibly done wrong?


Btw, StoicKiwi & Gtech, your information are spot on! Thanks you very much!

Hi,

If you don't maintain steering wheel position there is a chance you killed the SCCM/clockspring since the cable inside there will be damaged (that's why for example now your steering buttons also are not working anymore because all cables are snapped)

You can try to fix it but I have never tried that.
 
Hi,

If you don't maintain steering wheel position there is a chance you killed the SCCM/clockspring since the cable inside there will be damaged (that's why for example now your steering buttons also are not working anymore because all cables are snapped)

You can try to fix it but I have never tried that.
🤦🏻‍♂️Right, silly me, let me check and get back to you with update! Thanks Gtech!

Julian
 
Hi,

If you don't maintain steering wheel position there is a chance you killed the SCCM/clockspring since the cable inside there will be damaged (that's why for example now your steering buttons also are not working anymore because all cables are snapped)

You can try to fix it but I have never tried that.
Hey Gtech,

If I get a strip parts, a good quality one, do you I think I can just plug and go? Does it work this way? Or do I have to perform any specific in order to make the steering wheel alive again? Like software re-calibrating?

Sorry for a million questions, but I drive to earn a living, so, fixing my own car become a crucial thing for me to survive, hope you understand!


Julian
 
Hey Gtech,

If I get a strip parts, a good quality one, do you I think I can just plug and go? Does it work this way? Or do I have to perform any specific in order to make the steering wheel alive again? Like software re-calibrating?

Sorry for a million questions, but I drive to earn a living, so, fixing my own car become a crucial thing for me to survive, hope you understand!


Julian

You need to do some software wizaroo like redeploy and so, check the service manual for 'Module - Steering Column Control (Remove and Replace)'
 
  • Like
Reactions: Julian Hsu
You need to do some software wizaroo like redeploy and so, check the service manual for 'Module - Steering Column Control (Remove and Replace)'
Hey Gtech, just done with the replacement! It went well, all buttons and horn are back to live. All warning signals are gone.

No need to connect toolbox.

But I had to figure out how to centre the replacement clock spring since it’s a used parts. And after configurations myself, it worked!

How to centre clock spring:

Still need to try tomorrow if AP works fine.

Thanks Gtech!
 
Hey Gtech, just done with the replacement! It went well, all buttons and horn are back to live. All warning signals are gone.

No need to connect toolbox.

But I had to figure out how to centre the replacement clock spring since it’s a used parts. And after configurations myself, it worked!

How to centre clock spring:

Still need to try tomorrow if AP works fine.

Thanks Gtech!
Great to hear that, apparently new or used SCCM makes a difference
 
  • Like
Reactions: Julian Hsu