Steering rack shim Service Bulletin?

[BostonBurley]

I replaced a bunch of suspension components front and rear and got an alignment. Over a few months time I developed this clicking sound when turning left at low speed or stopped. It’s the front left of the car. At speed if I hit road imperfections there’s a loose/rattle sound coming from the same area.
Ive been told theres a service bulletin fix for this with shims and re torque, but for the life of me I can’t figure out where the shims/washers need to go? I can’t replicate the sound with my wheel off.

 

[Doanster1]

SB-13-32-001
Can’t find the actual verbiage/bulletin though. When it was addressed on my car they didn’t reference the SB, only replaced the bolts.

 

[BostonBurley]

It seems “shims” we’re just washers used with the original bolts, but if the newer shorter bolts were used they did not require washers. I’ll probably go the washers route.

 

[Doanster1]

It seems “shims” we’re just washers used with the original bolts, but if the newer shorter bolts were used they did not require washers. I’ll probably go the washers route.

Take pics from pls.

 

[Gtech]

Figure 18 and 19 they are talking about the "shims". If you have them they are between the sub frame and steering rack.

 

[BostonBurley]

Figure 18 and 19 they are talking about the "shims". If you have them they are between the sub frame and steering rack.

That’s incredibly helpful. Thank you!

 

[Doanster1]

That’s incredibly helpful. Thank you!

Indeed! Never would’ve thought that those bolts (location compared to steering wheel) could cause the prominent click/clunk that’s heard/felt in your hands.

 

[BostonBurley]

I completed the sb and installed shims where I’m supposed to, but the noises are still there. Next up I’ll remove front left wheel and investigate.

 

[Doanster1]

I completed the sb and installed shims where I’m supposed to, but the noises are still there. Next up I’ll remove front left wheel and investigate.

Wheel bearing is my bet then.

 

[Gtech]

I completed the sb and installed shims where I’m supposed to, but the noises are still there. Next up I’ll remove front left wheel and investigate.

If the sound occurs when standing still you could remove the frunk cover and try to locate the sound while somebody else is steering.

 

[BostonBurley]

The sound occurs at a standstill but sounds further into the wheel well. Not a wheel bearing based on that, although I wouldn’t mind if it was after changing a wheel bearing yesterday. Easy.

 

[Gtech]

The sound occurs at a standstill but sounds further into the wheel well. Not a wheel bearing based on that, although I wouldn’t mind if it was after changing a wheel bearing yesterday. Easy.

Also try retorq everything you have replaced also all alignment bolts, few months ago I had a friend with a noise that was coming from a completely loose alignment bolt. So I retorqed it for him and send the car back to the alignment shop.

 

[BostonBurley]

Also try retorq everything you have replaced also all alignment bolts, few months ago I had a friend with a noise that was coming from a completely loose alignment bolt. So I retorqed it for him and send the car back to the alignment shop.

I’m planning to do this tomorrow for that very reason. It would be a happy accident if you ask me. One that’s easy to remedy. I need an alignment anyhow from a pothole that destroyed my tire.

 

[BostonBurley]

It ended up being two separate issues. The clicking while turning left issue was solved by tightening the upper control arm bolt over half a turn and voila the click is gone.
The bashing rattle sound over hard bumps is my brake pads. The rear backing glue did not hold and the front left needs another effort. Thanks for the help diagnosing.

 

[Gtech]

It seems “shims” we’re just washers used with the original bolts, but if the newer shorter bolts were used they did not require washers. I’ll probably go the washers route.

The shims Tesla sells are actually friction shims.

Feels like sandpaper and go between the steering rack and subframe to create extra friction to stop the movement.

 

[BostonBurley]

The shims Tesla sells are actually friction shims.

Feels like sandpaper and go between the steering rack and subframe to create extra friction to stop the movement.

View attachment 737189

Thank you. That’s good to know.

 

[Doanster1]

Dang, are those CDs???

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Does it sound like this:

Cracking/Popping Noise from Front End - P90D

Hi everyone, I recently had my Model S over at the Service Center for some creaking in the front end when I turned the steering wheel. The SC replaced my whole steering rack, and the creaking noise went away. A week later, I started hearing an even more alarming cracking/popping noise when...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[alecxander]

I have the same issue, I believe this is the bulletin...

 

[Gtech]

Dang, are those CDs???

If my hands where really that big...You know what they say when people got big hands