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Sticking frunk latch Fix!

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jaguar36

Active Member
Apr 10, 2014
2,165
1,982
NJ
I'm not sure how prolific this is (particularly as it sounds like there are a few different iterations on the frunk latch). Our car ahs the double latch and recently the front one has been sticking. I've found two easy ways to open it if does stick. The first is to push down about halfway and hit the open button again, easy if you've got it in your hand. The second way is to push down a bit, and then stick your finger in and push the manual release. (a bit hard to find when the frunk is closed, but its easy to see when open)

However, I recently noticed that there was a significant amount of corrosion on the latch and the catch and that this seemed to keep it from sliding open nicely. So I cleaned it off a bit and then put some grease on both pieces. This seems to have at least temporarily fixed the issue, the frunk has opened on the first try ever since. Not sure how long it will last, but the grease should help prevent corrosion too.
 
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Reactions: Btr_ftw
Thanks as well for posting this.

My hood and/or fenders have been misaligned since day 1. Waiting for an S85D loaner as the body shop wants the better part of a week to do the work. I'm sure my service advisor has forgotten all about the issue, but in the meantime the hood has indeed been sticking more.

White lithium grease or just any old grease after a proper cleaning? Using the correct lubricant has always stuck in my mind after that whole Alaska Airlines (harrowing and ultimately fatal for all souls onboard) upside down flight thing a few years back due to, in part, using the wrong lubricant for jack screw maintenance.
 
Thanks as well for posting this.

My hood and/or fenders have been misaligned since day 1. Waiting for an S85D loaner as the body shop wants the better part of a week to do the work. I'm sure my service advisor has forgotten all about the issue, but in the meantime the hood has indeed been sticking more.

White lithium grease or just any old grease after a proper cleaning? Using the correct lubricant has always stuck in my mind after that whole Alaska Airlines (harrowing and ultimately fatal for all souls onboard) upside down flight thing a few years back due to, in part, using the wrong lubricant for jack screw maintenance.

I think any old grease would work fine. I'm sure some might work better than others, but any type would still provide some lubrication and corrosion protection. We're not talking about extreme temperatures or loads here, nor is it a particularly critical part so I wouldn't be to concerned.
 
I think any old grease would work fine. I'm sure some might work better than others, but any type would still provide some lubrication and corrosion protection. We're not talking about extreme temperatures or loads here, nor is it a particularly critical part so I wouldn't be to concerned.

I think I'd want to use a "lighter" lubricant like graphite or something. My other ICE car's hood latch got completely gummed up last winter when the grease my local oil change place put on attracted all kinds of grit, then froze into a sticky mess. I had to put heat on it and scrape out the goop just to get the latch to operate and hold the hood down. Which reminds me, I need to get at that with some de-greaser while it's still summer!
 
However, I recently noticed that there was a significant amount of corrosion on the latch and the catch and that this seemed to keep it from sliding open nicely. So I cleaned it off a bit and then put some grease on both pieces. This seems to have at least temporarily fixed the issue, the frunk has opened on the first try ever since. Not sure how long it will last, but the grease should help prevent corrosion too.

Nice find but I think a better fix would be if Tesla designed a latch that didn't corrode. I can't recall the last time I ever had to put grease on any car latch.
 
I think I'd want to use a "lighter" lubricant like graphite or something. My other ICE car's hood latch got completely gummed up last winter when the grease my local oil change place put on attracted all kinds of grit, then froze into a sticky mess. I had to put heat on it and scrape out the goop just to get the latch to operate and hold the hood down. Which reminds me, I need to get at that with some de-greaser while it's still summer!

I think you want something that will prevent corrosion, which graphite won't do. As long as you don't use too much I wouldn't imagine you would have any issues with it gumming up. However white lithium grease doesn't work to well below about -10 degrees, so if you live where it gets that cold regularly you might want to use something else.
 
Interesting thoughts all. Sounds like graphite or silicone fer me. Will have to find the sweet spot between anti-corrosion and ungunkification in all conditions. What I did notice early on is that some of the paint had chipped away from the catch itself, so... Maybe some simple touch-up is in order before lubrication.

It's always the little things...
 
Just got my 2014 CPO S P85+ delivered today with the two latches system. I noticed the latch toward the front was slightly corroded, and it seems to have difficulty releasing the frunk lid, so I sprayed with WD-40. Seems to work for now.