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Stopped my MCU from leaking. Saved $$$.

JustADude

Closed
Jun 18, 2019
71
90
Canada
I started to get bubbles on the MCU a month ago.

I finally had the time to remove it and fix it.

I used gorilla epoxy, it's rated for -23c to 85c or so. I applied a layer of the epoxy around the edges of the screen and since then I haven't received any new bubbles.

Now I need to figure out how to disable the logging that kills the eMMC.
 

JustADude

Closed
Jun 18, 2019
71
90
Canada
IMG_20190904_125327162.jpg
 

browniesla

New Member
Nov 12, 2019
1
0
San Jose, CA
I started to get bubbles on the MCU a month ago.

I finally had the time to remove it and fix it.

I used gorilla epoxy, it's rated for -23c to 85c or so. I applied a layer of the epoxy around the edges of the screen and since then I haven't received any new bubbles.

Now I need to figure out how to disable the logging that kills the eMMC.
Nice DIY!!! I'm going to have a similar fix. Did you remove the LCD out of the MCU or glue it while it's in MCU? Thanks for the info!
 

JRMW

Member
Nov 13, 2016
289
275
Minneapolis
Although I applaud the ingenuity here, it also leaves me a bit frustrated

I have zero tech, engineering, or construction skills and will never be able to learn them (work 80-90 hrs/week)

But it seems one needs them to fix/prevent bubbling, yellow borders, and/or MCU failure

We all knew getting into this that the 3 is and was critical to the survival of the company, and that we as S owners would need to make sacrifices . I accept that.

And thus I’m fine with auto wipers that don’t work, mirrors that don’t fold, the rattles and the noises that many of our cars have, the browser that’s never worked for me, and the fact that my S has never been able to connect to my house WiFi

I’m can live with the gross yellow border that I have, the voice control that never works any more, and the slow maps

But now I’m worried about bubbles, and the likelihood that my MCU will just fail one day... and I’m also very careful to never turn my wheel while going backwards to prevent control arm failure

I really think that Tesla needs to pause on some of the fancy new things and invest in quality control as well as create a department to proactively deal with these known systemic failures, so that we don’t need to remove our dashboards and glue it back together ourselves

Sorry for complaining, because I do love the car.
 
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whitex

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2015
6,379
7,545
Seattle area, WA
I’m can live with the gross yellow border that I have, the voice control that never works any more, and the slow maps

But now I’m worried about bubbles,...
I have a little bit of good news for you, maybe let you sleep a little easier. If you have the yellow border, you don't have to worry about bubbles. Yellow border showed up only on the newer units meant to address the bubbles. I have yet to see anyone here post a picture of MCU with both.

As for all the other things, well, Teslas are best suited for hobbyists who can work on them, and billionaires like Elon who can keep a few of them in the garage, and trade them up to new cars every couple of years or when something needs repair.
 
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Myfirstone

Member
Jul 18, 2019
782
154
The Netherlands
I started to get bubbles on the MCU a month ago.

I finally had the time to remove it and fix it.

I used gorilla epoxy, it's rated for -23c to 85c or so. I applied a layer of the epoxy around the edges of the screen and since then I haven't received any new bubbles.

Now I need to figure out how to disable the logging that kills the eMMC.


Is the space between the display and the frame needed for any ventilation? I want gaskets sealer between the display and frame.
 

Myfirstone

Member
Jul 18, 2019
782
154
The Netherlands
I'm interested in this as well as I'm about to swap out my leaking screen

I’m now repairing a friends display and this steps I make.

likely the leakage is on the bottom because the front glas can slide down because it is not preventing by the black plastic frame.

clean the sides that are oké with 96% alcohol and the front glass. Now use any kind of tape on the front glass. Cutoff tape that’s over the edges. Now use 2 components glue or epoxy and “paint” it on the sides.

now wait until the glue is dry. When it is dry you can place the display so that the side that leaks facing upside. When you place the display in the sun the air bubbles will slowly moving to the top. When all the air bubbles are at the top you can now press lightly the glass too the back and hold it with a clamp. Now clean this side with alcohol and “paint” it with your epoxy or 2 component glue and let it dry.

too speed up removing the air bubbles your can use a plastic bag and use your vacuum cleaner to remove the air out off the plastic bag.
 

jobiggs24

Member
Nov 18, 2018
110
17
Albany, NY
I’m now repairing a friends display and this steps I make.

likely the leakage is on the bottom because the front glas can slide down because it is not preventing by the black plastic frame.

clean the sides that are oké with 96% alcohol and the front glass. Now use any kind of tape on the front glass. Cutoff tape that’s over the edges. Now use 2 components glue or epoxy and “paint” it on the sides.

now wait until the glue is dry. When it is dry you can place the display so that the side that leaks facing upside. When you place the display in the sun the air bubbles will slowly moving to the top. When all the air bubbles are at the top you can now press lightly the glass too the back and hold it with a clamp. Now clean this side with alcohol and “paint” it with your epoxy or 2 component glue and let it dry.

too speed up removing the air bubbles your can use a plastic bag and use your vacuum cleaner to remove the air out off the plastic bag.
Thank you!!! A how to video would be amazing!!!
 

aesculus

Still Trying to Figure This All Out
May 31, 2015
4,301
2,460
Northern California
now wait until the glue is dry. When it is dry you can place the display so that the side that leaks facing upside. When you place the display in the sun the air bubbles will slowly moving to the top. When all the air bubbles are at the top you can now press lightly the glass too the back and hold it with a clamp. Now clean this side with alcohol and “paint” it with your epoxy or 2 component glue and let it dry.
Just curious if it would be best to always leave the top of the panel open so the bubbles would naturally disperse?

This would require the bottom to be sealed of course even though the bubbles were on that end and you would have to wait a longer time for them to move up the panel.
 
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