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Storage Mode

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#61
#62
Thank you all for the very helpful info on this thread. I am not an engineer, but was able to follow most of it, because you avoided too much jargon and the like. Thanks. For what it's worth, I will say, I found the second set of graphs about charge state/temp and battery shelf life very readable and useful. Keep posting all your expertise, in the end I found it all interesting and reassuring.

Reassuring, I say, because I came to the thread because my roadster didn't seem to charge at all in storage mode. I would plug it in at somewhere between 170 and 120 miles and just watch it loose a few miles per day, till I got spooked at 60 to 80 miles. Then manually intervene, and top it off. I now see that's how it's supposed to work, and I see the logic of letting it run down to 20 to 30 miles. I do have one question.

I have my car in storage mode and plugged in. When I go to the charge log, it doesn't say much about what it was doing during the time on storage mode. It just lists the last charge, which in this case was before I placed it in storage mode. So it shows the last standard charge.

This may seem paranoid (or uninformed), but is there some internal log or setting that documents the car is plugged in and placed in storage mode. My biggest fear is that the car will be in storage mode hovering at a 20 miles of charge, and then some internal glitch happens and it just vampire drains to 0, and a bricked battery pack. Which would only take 10 days to two weeks. Easily the length of a extended vacation or the like. I'm not one to get into any sort of law suit, but if this worse case scenario were to happen, I'm wondering if I'd have some sort of documentation to back up that I had done the right thing when trying to work things out with Tesla.

I can't answer my question, but as I write this, if I'm really concerned, I could just fully charge the car before an extended trip, and that way have a couple months of charge in case something catastrophic happens. Also, I realize now that my warranty is past, I probably have no recourse even if the battery bricked for any reason, even ones in which I did everything right.

So if you could just give me insight about does the car have a "trail" of it being plugged in, I'd appreciate it.

E
 
#63
There's a log file which stores the details on charging cycles and state of charge. You can download it to a USB stick by creating a folder called "VehicleLogs" and inserting it into the port in the centre console. Try searching on "log parser" for threads on how to extract and view the data.
 
#64
erichmond said:
This may seem paranoid (or uninformed), but is there some internal log or setting that documents the car is plugged in and placed in storage mode. My biggest fear is that the car will be in storage mode hovering at a 20 miles of charge, and then some internal glitch happens and it just vampire drains to 0, and a bricked battery pack. Which would only take 10 days to two weeks. Easily the length of a extended vacation or the like. I'm not one to get into any sort of law suit, but if this worse case scenario were to happen, I'm wondering if I'd have some sort of documentation to back up that I had done the right thing when trying to work things out with Tesla.

I can't answer my question, but as I write this, if I'm really concerned, I could just fully charge the car before an extended trip, and that way have a couple months of charge in case something catastrophic happens. Also, I realize now that my warranty is past, I probably have no recourse even if the battery bricked for any reason, even ones in which I did everything right.
Click to expand...

I think you have little to fear as long as you keep the car plugged in and do not have an extended power outage. I would not use storage mode unless you plan to let the car sit for 4 weeks or more. If you plan to drive occasionally just charge it under standard mode. Owners who have done that have now crossed the 100,000 mile mark. Theoretically the battery will last longer in storage mode but you will need to charge in standard mode before taking anything but a very short drive.

And yes in storage mode the car may go months without charging. You will lose 1-2 miles a day of vampire drain. But storage mode can let your car drop to 20% (3 months). It is supposed to wake up each night and see if you need a charge. Basic logic is in standard mode if you are below 87% the car will charge to bring you to 87%. If in storage mode it let the car drop to as low as 30% (guessing here as I do not know the real number) I believe and I think it will charge to 60% and then let it drift back down to 30%.
 
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#66
A word of caution ..
NEVER use the low amp 'spare mobile connector' charging cord with the circuit breaker
A poor chap in Europe put his roadster in a museum over winter, in storage mode, there was a short power outage, and his circuit breaker tripped ! > Bricked battery $40K !!
(circuit breaker is mandatory in EU, in line with spare mobile charging cord)

Thread somewhere in here > TFF Forum - Tesla Fahrer und Freunde Forum Forum anzeigen - Tesla Roadster (german roadster forum read in chrome for good english translation)

SO always use connector/cable with UMC, (EVSE) so if there IS a power outage when in storage, the UMC will reconnect power to car automatically.
ie one of these: (and just to be sure monitor it with OVMS ! )
UMC.jpg
 
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#67
Mark77a said:
A word of caution ..
NEVER use the low amp 'spare mobile connector' charging cord with the circuit breaker
A poor chap in Europe put his roadster in a museum over winter, in storage mode, there was a short power outage, and his circuit breaker tripped ! > Bricked battery $40K !!
(circuit breaker is mandatory in EU, in line with spare mobile charging cord)

Thread somewhere in here > TFF Forum - Tesla Fahrer und Freunde Forum Forum anzeigen - Tesla Roadster (german roadster forum read in chrome for good english translation)

SO always use connector/cable with UMC, (EVSE) so if there IS a power outage when in storage, the UMC will reconnect power to car automatically.
ie one of these: (and just to be sure monitor it with OVMS ! )
View attachment 63434
Click to expand...

Also for long term storage without shore power, is to pull the ESS service disconnect, just make sure to disconnect the 12v battery too (if 2.0/2.5).
 
#69
Good point about the risk of using the SMC when plugged in and in Storage Mode. I do not have a UMC for my 1.5, I have an HPC. I am never away from home, and away from my cars, for more than three weeks so I will just leave the Roadster charging in Standard Mode. And the Model S can take care of itself while plugged into an HPWC without any special attention.
 
#72
dpeilow said:
Mark, if the guy's battery was bricked, was he easily able to get a replacement battery?
Click to expand...

I think so .. but at cost ....
1st post in thread


I am 54 years old and have been driving almost 2 years a Roadster Sport. Well, I had the car over the winter in a museum. At the spring I was looking forward to the first exit. Sorry, there was nothing more. After 4 months at Tesla Switzerland I was today informed that the battery needs to be replaced. The car has only 12000km and a good and new equipment. What should I do? Sell? Is there a battery in a vehicle accident? In Switzerland, the battery Fr.40'000.00 costs (€ 33'000.00)
Thanks for the feedback
Rene Meier

The rest of the thread reads OK in english on Chrome > TFF Forum - Tesla Fahrer und Freunde Forum Thema anzeigen - Batterieschaden
Or in Google translate > Google Translate
 
#76
wiztecy said:
Any idea what the lowest voltage a cell/brick can be at for a point of recovery? If they're too low it becomes harder or impossible to bring back alive.
Click to expand...

I can't remember off top of my head (I do have data of it somewhere), I do remember that it also has to do with how long it sat at a very low voltage too. Note I've never attempted recovery of an dead roadster ESS sheet/brick, as I've designed my PCB to do active balancing on a healthy ESS sheet/bricks. I would only try using my PCB on an dead sheet's as a last chance scenario.
 
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#77
spaceballs said:
I can't remember off top of my head (I do have data of it somewhere), I do remember that it also has to do with how long it sat at a very low voltage too. Note I've never attempted recovery of an dead roadster ESS sheet/brick, as I've designed my PCB to do active balancing on a healthy ESS sheet/bricks. I would only try using my PCB on an dead sheet's as a last chance scenario.
Click to expand...

Here's the datasheet:

http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf2/ACA4000/ACA4000CE254.pdf

Appears some say 2.5V but realistically 2.75V where it has any chance to be recovered.

Minimum Li-ion discharge voltage?

Only problem of recovering any of the cells is monitoring each cell individually, if you can't it becomes rather dangerous. Since you're just trying to get a boost into the cell above the cutoff point. I don't know if you can do that through the BMB to access each individual cell. I would think you can't. If you can't the only safe way to recover the cells is to pull the sheet out one by one. But then you'd have to take apart the sheet and access each individual cell for charge and monitoring purposes. Since the cells are glued in I don't think that's such an easy task let alone possible.

This guy was able to bring back a 18650 cell that appeared to be below 2.5V, explains about recovering an individual cell:

 
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#78
wiztecy said:
Here's the datasheet:

http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf2/ACA4000/ACA4000CE254.pdf

Appears some say 2.5V but realistically 2.75V where it has any chance to be recovered.

Minimum Li-ion discharge voltage?

Only problem of recovering any of the cells is monitoring each cell individually, if you can't it becomes rather dangerous. Since you're just trying to get a boost into the cell above the cutoff point. I don't know if you can do that through the BMB to access each individual cell. I would think you can't. If you can't the only safe way to recover the cells is to pull the sheet out one by one. But then you'd have to take apart the sheet and access each individual cell for charge and monitoring purposes. Since the cells are glued in I don't think that's such an easy task let alone possible.

This guy was able to bring back a 18650 cell that appeared to be below 2.5V, explains about recovering an individual cell:

Click to expand...

You can go lower than 2.5v without worries of cell damage (if you start to re-charge right after).. it's when it hits ~1.8v (if I remember right) get you start to loose capacity, ~1.5v (again if I remember right) is where you start to to really worry.
 
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#79
Does the OVMS allow you to set the SOC MAX during "Storage Mode" like the Tattler does. I travel and leave ny 2.5 in Storage Mode with max SOC dialed down to 40% and have had no problems for three year. I set a low SOC alert to 30% and that acts as a monitor to make sure the battery has the charge I want. If power goes out for some reason and SOC falls below 30% the Tattler sends me an alert and I can check status (Status?). Can't OVMS do that?
 
#80
Botbldr45 said:
Does the OVMS allow you to set the SOC MAX during "Storage Mode" like the Tattler does. I travel and leave ny 2.5 in Storage Mode with max SOC dialed down to 40% and have had no problems for three year. I set a low SOC alert to 30% and that acts as a monitor to make sure the battery has the charge I want. If power goes out for some reason and SOC falls below 30% the Tattler sends me an alert and I can check status (Status?). Can't OVMS do that?
Click to expand...

Sure. In ACC mode you can set a SOC limit (either range or %). You can also arrange an alert if SOC falls below a pre-set lower limit. Finally, if SOC hits 4%, OVMS will do everything it can to alert you.
 
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