Strange Wall Connector issue

[Ringerso]

I’ve had my Model Y about a month now and having a strange issue with the Wall Connector, that I had installed by a Tesla recommended electrician.

When my car is charging, our dishwasher inside the house restarts (powers on/off) every 8-10 minutes. The only reason we know this is because the dishwasher makes a chiming sound whenever its restarted or the door is opened, otherwise we may have never known. The charging never seems to be disrupted and we haven’t noticed any other electrical issues in the house. We have had the electrician that installed the Wall Connector back out to check everything and he can’t find any issues. Its a new house (about 15 months old), so we had the builder’s electrician come out and check everything. Both have said that they checked all the connections and have attempted to diagnose it, but haven’t been able to find anything.

I’ve tried adjusting the charge setting in the car from 48A down to 40A to see if that made any difference, but that had no Impact.

We have the electrician coming back out tomorrow to try and figure out what’s going on, but wanted to see if anyone else has any ideas what to try or to have the electrician check?

thanks in advance!

 

[Not4me]

Have you contacted the Dishwasher company to find what would trigger a restart?
Alternatively, try plugging the dishwasher into a power bar that filters transient noise and possible harmonics.

 

[ATPMSD]

So I assume what you mean is when the dishwasher is running and you charge you car the dishwasher restarts by itself. A possible issue is the voltage at the dishwasher is not what it should be. Have your electrician check the voltage with dishwasher and car charger off, then with car charger on and dishwasher off. Then check it again when the dishwasher is running and the Wall Charger is off, then once more with both running. The voltage should be the same each time.

 

[Sophias_dad]

The voltage should be the same each time.

Not really. Its entirely reasonable to have the voltage arriving at the main panel drop by a few volts potentially(see what I did there?) when an extra 48 amps of load comes online.

I agree that if the voltage is marginally low and the wall charger drags it lower that the dishwasher might have issues with it.

 

[jcanoe]

How old is the dishwasher? Older home appliances can start to malfunction due to variations in the line voltage. In the past few months I had to replace a wired sensor in my home alarm system that became overly sensitive, after 15 years, to power supply voltage variations and would trip the home alarm. Just this month I had a service technician replace the controller board in my 9 year old standby power generator. The generator was becoming increasingly flaky. The controller board has started to lose the date and time settings, the weekly exercise schedule too.

 

[Sophias_dad]

How old is the dishwasher? Older home appliances can start to malfunction due to variations in the line voltage. In the past few months I had to replace a wired sensor in my home alarm system that became overly sensitive, after 15 years, to power supply voltage variations and would trip the home alarm. Just this month I had a service technician replace the controller board in my 9 year old standby power generator. The generator was becoming increasingly flaky. The controller board has started to lose the date and time settings, the weekly exercise schedule too.

Capacitor plague - Wikipedia, perhaps?

 

[DoctorNomNom]

Did you ever figure this out? i am having the same issue - my dishwasher restarts constantly but only when my car is plugged in. We temporarily fixed it by adding a smart outlet to where the dishwasher is plugged in but it drives us insane.

 

[techjag]

Found this post from another site.. I'm having the exact same issue... my dishwasher is an almost brand new GE Profile. I put a scope (albeit an cheap slow scope on the circuit) and see no disruption in the waveform.. the voltage dips slightly to around 119.5 and on the high side was in the upper 120.x range. certainly not enough to cause a problem one would think, I did a load calculation before I installed the charger at 48 amps and it should be fine on our 200 amp service. We also only charge after midnight so most of the rest of the load on the service is off at that time.

I can 100% recreate it on demand... the Tesla charger is in an out building on a 100A sub panel that is fed from our primary service. I am going to check all the connections in the meter base and the main panel tomorrow but its beyond crazy.. car charges fine... one interesting fact is that if I reduce the amps on the charge to 30-32 it stops. There is a voltage drop on at the charger to 234V when under full load but that should be within acceptable 3-5% margin.

I'm a bit baffled so far..

 

[Chiyu Zhang]

I have been having this issue since January. I hired a licensed electrician to set up the charger. My dishwasher is also almost brand new, and I have a 200A service.
One interesting thing that I noticed was sometimes, if I charge my car during "off-peak (not the regular off-peak hours determined by my utility provider, but sometime between 7 PM - 9 PM)" hours, it would not trigger the restart/ chime.
I also tried to limit the charger to 40 A (or blow 40), which will not trigger the restart/ chime.

Did any of you ever resolve this issue?

 

[David Green]

Here it is 2024 and I am still fighting the same issue with my wall connector and my GE dishwasher. Anytime the car is charging the dishwasher constantly turns on and off. Here is a new spin my wife’s heating pad will not work while the car is charging. Gives a F1 error code. The code means loss of power. I have put a meter on the outlet and it never drops below 119 but status on 120 for the most part. Called Tesla support they told me to call GE. I called GE and they told me to call Tesla. Did anyone ever figure this out. Been trying since January. 200 amp service,60 amp Breaker #6 wire. I tried ferrite on the wires did not help. Bought a 45 amp RF filter and it also did not help. I m stumped. Thanks David

 

[flixden]

Here is a new spin my wife’s heating pad will not work while the car is charging. Gives a F1 error code. The code means loss of power. I have put a meter on the outlet and it never drops below 119 but status on 120 for the most part.

Are you able to measure the voltage (better yet would be the current) when the heating pad is on, or only on the outlet while being idle? I wonder if that actually causes a droop. One way to do that is a kill-a-watt device, very helpful.
Amazon.com

Compare the current (power) that the pad draws with the car not charging and charging. Try to reduce the amps that the car draws also. Start with the lowest, then move up, step by step, and capture all the values of car current vs heating pad current in a table. This assumes that the heating pad works at all when the car is charging at low amps. If it doesn't, you can experiment with another (maybe less sensitive) high load on the same outlet. For example a simple heater of some sort, or a high powered shop light.

 

[jcanoe]

How old is the home? I am not an electrician, only waiting for one. A manager where I worked was remodeling their kitchen. This summoned all sorts of electrical demons into the home. They tried everything to find the source of their problems. Nothing helped. The problem was eventually traced to a corroded meter head (the large receptacle/mount where the electric utility meter is connected to the power grid.) The house was over 50 years old. Over time galvanic action had corroded the connections inside the meter head so badly that it was affecting the home's power. After they replaced the meter head the demons were gone and did not return.