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Stripped down P over fully-loaded AWD?

Discussion in 'Model 3' started by swhang, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. swhang

    swhang Member

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    So I got a fully-loaded AWD with upgraded tires, EAP, and FSD with delivery date Sept-Nov.

    That comes out to $63,500.

    I am debating about changing my order to AWD P, white interior, without the performance package and just EAP without FSD. That comes out to $71,500.

    With that, I may be able to get delivery in August. And with it, a possibility I'll get the full tax credit and not half with the AWD. But I know none of us are really sure about when the 200k mark was passed just yet.

    Are any of you guys thinking of these two options?

    I'm so annoyed that the AWP P only offers the nasty aeros and the $5k performance package with 20" wheels. I wish they offered just the 19"s. But I'm thinking I can get a new set $2-3k and either use the Aeros for long trips or just sell them.
     
  2. JulienW

    JulienW Member

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    You can always buy wheels/tires, spoiler, brake covers and caliper covers (just not the performance brakes) later but you can't buy Performance later.
     
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  3. ℬête Noire

    ℬête Noire Active Member

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    Probably not as many as the 18" but there will probably be plenty of Tesla 19" rims and/or full wheels coming on the market as people decide to upgrade to aftermarket (including Tesla's 20").

    TESLA MODEL 3 OEM Silver Turbine 19" Rims Wheels SET of 4 | eBay

    Then there is a huge number of aftermarket choices with a wide range of prices.
     
  4. SteveTack

    SteveTack Member

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    Yeah. It's what pushed me to the 20" wheel package, even though I don't need upgraded brakes. Hope that doesn't lock me into 20" wheels for the life of the vehicle (like if 19's can't fit over the bigger brakes). I wish I could flip a switch in my brain and just enjoy the look of the aeros, but that hasn't happened yet.
     
  5. ForeverFree

    ForeverFree Supporting Member

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    Have you looked at the Aeros with aero covers removed?

    We’ve had our LR for seven months and have appreciated the versatility of being able to throw on the covers for max range on road trips.
     
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  6. eSpiritIV

    eSpiritIV Member

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    At the 3-5 delivery window fo the AWD (non P) dont you think you are guaranteed the full tax credit through December?
     
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  7. kengchang

    kengchang Member

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    Personally 4.5 is plenty fast already (current car does 5.5) , so I am going with fully loaded AWD.
     
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  8. e-FTW

    e-FTW New electron smell

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    For what it's worth, I am skipping FSD (but I would never skip EAP), as I don't see the "full" part of FSD being legalized in all states for many more years. So, I'll keep that money and invest it/use it instead of loaning it to Tesla at 0% for an unknown length of time.
     
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  9. swhang

    swhang Member

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    It is fast enough. I've been driving a Nissan Leaf for the last 4 years.

    But I REALLY want the white seats.

    And I don't see those deliveries happening for the rear wheel nor AWD until next year. =(

    Yes. I could get the Tsportsline white seats for about $2k extra. But I thought, why not just use that money to put towards the P?
     
  10. Knightshade

    Knightshade Active Member

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    Yeah- the aeros without the covers and with the little kit from Tesla looks better than the 19s or 20s IMHO

    Personally even if I didn't like the aeros at all I still wouldn't drop $1500 on the 19s since they still come with crap all seasons on em- I'd take the "free" 18s, sell em, and put the $ from that plus the saved $1500 toward a set of wheels in whatever size I preferred that I genuinely liked the look of, plus a set of 4S summer tires.

    As to the OPs main question... are you planning to track the car?

    If not, and Tesla didn't hit 200k in June (and I don't think they did) then you're gaining basically nothing from the P other than:

    Option for white interior earlier than other configs
    1 second quicker 0-60

    is that worth $11,000 to you?


    Personally? I didn't think it was. I don't like the white interior anyway- and I've had cars that ran 0-60 in the 3s and in the 4s...outside of a track you can usually count on one hand the # of times that difference matters at all in a given year (the rare stoplight race against a car actually quicker than the 4s), so that sure didn't seem worth 11k.

    If the P had offered a significantly more advanced suspension and performance tires on the aeros for that 11k I'd have been a lot more inclined to spend it- but there's no solid indication of either coming with the car.
     
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  11. ℬête Noire

    ℬête Noire Active Member

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    This is what made the decision for me. "Does the car I drive really need the acceleration level of a legit cafe racer motorcycle?" 4.5sec and a 13sec 1/4 mile (the LR-D will almost certainly do the quarter under that since the LR is sub-14sec) is the range of [not quite legit] Kawasaki Ninja 500. The Performance will be more in line with something like a Kawasaki Ninja 650, and not much short of ZX-6R and such.

    In my mind the acceleration is better listed as "0-trouble right ***ing now", but of course what you're looking for matters.
     
  12. ba2002

    ba2002 Member

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    I was in a similar position.

    AWD @ $59k vs PAWD at $71.5. I was also debating a S75D @ $92ish.

    I decided on the 3 vs S because interior space is similar, cash is less, tech is newer, and the 3 will just be my commuter car. Different car for road trips so I couldn't justify the cost of the S for the storage space. Also I'm in an S now and ready for a change into something smaller and different. I hope I don't regret the ride of the 3 - the S is a pretty nice cruiser but you also definitely feel the weight in the curves.

    I also am largely getting the P for the earlier delivery and the white interior, but am coming from a P90DL, so didn't want the car to "feel" too much slower :).

    I initially had FSD, but decided that seemed sort of like a waste of money at the present time. I don't need the car to drive me around the neighborhood. If it turns out they get level 3 reliability on the interstate with FSD but not EAP, I might bite the bullet later and upgrade. But for now I don't see the point.

    I think the performance package in the P options is a complete waste for 99% of people. There is a small group that tracks their car, but even if I was in that group, I would save the money for aftermarket brakes, wheels etc that are sure to come. The spoiler and aluminum pedals are insulting at that price.
     
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  13. kengchang

    kengchang Member

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    Ya, I would love the white seat too but I want to get the full tax credit and rather use that 12.5K (P+White) to get a base SR end of this year or next year for my parent to switch to full EV.
     
  14. TurnFast

    TurnFast Member

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    Yeah I've been wrestling with this too. I keep looking at my loaded awd config and thinking "for a little more I could have a base performance" but it's really hard to mentally justify it when all you're getting for your 11k is faster delivery and better quality control on your motors. To me it seems like you're really spending 11k on an awd with a software performance limiter removed, which to me is just frustrating.
    If they offered other mechanical differences/improvements it would be easier to justify.
    I can see how the performance models are much higher margin for them. Costs them nothing to flip a software switch (that 11k is pure profit) but it makes me feel more like a sucker for paying it.
     
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  15. TurnFast

    TurnFast Member

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    I'm maybe a little salty about this because despite the rashional side of my brain saying this is a terrible idea, there is a juvenile part of me that wants to pay it anyway and get pressed into the back of my seat when I mash the pedal.
     
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  16. ℬête Noire

    ℬête Noire Active Member

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    #16 ℬête Noire, Jul 9, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2018
    You're also paying for a bit extra testing up front and the warranty coverage, because uncorking is more wear thus risking damage within that first 120,000mi drive-train/battery warranty window.

    I still get what you're talking about, though. Almost certainly a very large amount of margin in there for Tesla.
     
  17. swhang

    swhang Member

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    Hahahaha! Yes. Exactly!

    Our rational side vs. our emotional side.

    I'm trying to find a way to rationalize a way to change my order to a P.

    But I know when I rationalize too much, all I get are rational lies!
     
  18. Powered By Jay

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    I think if you switch to AWD P now, your ETA will still be Sept-Nov.

    That’s what happened to me.
     
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  19. swhang

    swhang Member

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    Oh! So you originally ordered AWD with a Sept-Nov timeframe and at the time, could've gotten a P with an Aug-Oct timeframe? Then you switched your order from AWD to P and that original Aug-Oct was no longer valid and instead, it shows Sept-Nov for you?

    In my configuration, when I edit, it doesn't give months, it just says 2-4 months.
     
  20. Powered By Jay

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    Here is what I did:
    Ordered AWD w/ 19" wheels on 6/30. ETA was Sept-Nov. Was seriously considering AWD P which had an ETA of Aug-Oct, but I didn't bite.
    Changed to AWD w/ 18" wheels on 7/4. ETA was changed to Oct-Dec. I said oh sh*t what did I do.
    Changed to AWD P w/ 18" wheels 10 minutes later. ETA is now Sept-Nov.
     

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