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Stuck in "car off" mode, need help, any ideas?

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
I've tried soft reset, hard reset, charging, locking/unlocking. Even tried summon, which works, but then goes right back into "car off" mode.

Anyone had this issue in the past?

This is a 2017 75D w/2020.48.35.5
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
right and I would replace the battery just to be sure.
Yes 100% positive key is detected, since it says "key not detected" if that was the issue. Plus I can open it, close it, summon it, etc with the key. Funny, I can summon it and move it, but can not actually drive it. Goes back into "car off" mode as soon as summon is canceld.
Btw, I've used both key fobs. Both have new batteries and both work fine.
Also used the app to "start" the car. And app responded that it was in "keyless" mode, but still ... in "car off" mode.
 
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ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
Crazy, just scheduled an appointment, but absolutely no way of moving the car, short of having it towed.
This is first ever major issue with Tesla. Wow, impressive how bad a support experience this is.
 

Silicon Desert

Active Member
Oct 1, 2018
3,614
3,522
Sparks NV / GF 1
Very odd. I haven't heard this one yet. Call the number in the app and have them connect to the car to see if there is an obvious problems. I'll be interested hear what was the problem.
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
Very odd. I haven't heard this one yet. Call the number in the app and have the connect to the car to see if there are an obvious problems. I'll be interested hear what was the problem.

You can't connect to anyone at Tesla. They handle 100% of the service through the app now. Am I missing something? I tried every option, only to hear on that number, that I have to use the app to schedule service.
 

KyleDay

Active Member
Oct 29, 2016
1,342
2,959
AZ
If you’re up for it, open your hood, pull the High Viltage responder loop (it’s a quick disconnect little wire loop for exactly this purpose) and then disconnect the NEGATIVE cable of your 12v battery terminal under the hood. It’s fairly easy to get to. Then wait 5 minutes and reconnect both.

That’ll reboot the gateway which really might help.
 
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Silicon Desert

Active Member
Oct 1, 2018
3,614
3,522
Sparks NV / GF 1
You can't connect to anyone at Tesla. They handle 100% of the service through the app now. Am I missing something? I tried every option, only to hear on that number, that I have to use the app to schedule service.
Ok, maybe that changed since I needed to call them last year. As I remember, once I called the number on the center screen in the car. Who knows, maybe that has changed too.
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
Yes, has changed. I remember those days too

Good news is roadside assistance is responsive, and walked me though full power off (had already done that), bad news, they told me it needed to be towed. Surprised they can’t check anything on there end like they use too ...
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
If you’re up for it, open your hood, pull the High Viltage responder loop (it’s a quick disconnect little wire loop for exactly this purpose) and then disconnect the NEGATIVE cable of your 12v battery terminal under the hood. It’s fairly easy to get to. Then wait 5 minutes and reconnect both.

That’ll reboot the gateway which really might help.

hmm. Sounds like a big step, but I might just have to try that. Thanks for the idea!
 

Silicon Desert

Active Member
Oct 1, 2018
3,614
3,522
Sparks NV / GF 1
Ok, maybe that changed since I needed to call them last year. As I remember, once I called the number on the center screen in the car. Who knows, maybe that has changed too.
Ok. But did you try calling the number in the center display? Yup, they call it roadside service, but I have been able to get them to do a quick diagnostic on the car to see if it was anything obvious and been able to get them to push new software. This was recent when I had a software lockup issue. Not as bad as your issue since I was able to drive the car. I also called them last year when at a supercharger with an issue and they solved that too. But yup, I guess the phone app isn't good for that any more.
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
Ok. But did you try calling the number in the center display? Yup, they call it roadside service, but I have been able to get them to do a quick diagnostic on the car to see if it was anything obvious and been able to get them to push new software. This was recent when I had a software lockup issue. Not as bad as your since I was able to drive the car. I called them last year when at a supercharger with an issue and they solved that too. But yup, I guess the phone app isn't good for that any more.

yes. Agree have been able to talk to someone in the past but no more

yes using number on screen. They all go to same menu now.
 
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Reactions: Silicon Desert

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
If you’re up for it, open your hood, pull the High Viltage responder loop (it’s a quick disconnect little wire loop for exactly this purpose) and then disconnect the NEGATIVE cable of your 12v battery terminal under the hood. It’s fairly easy to get to. Then wait 5 minutes and reconnect both.

That’ll reboot the gateway which really might help.

You sir are a genius!!

That indeed worked. Thank you so much!!
 

JACMS3

Member
Jul 11, 2019
173
47
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Good it resolved the issue.
You still need to go to sc?

for me my Tesla apps cannot connect to my model S. I log out and back in same. I use the fob to unlock door and lock same.
The apps can connect to my model 3.

finally it connected after 15-20minutes.
Anyone know why?
Thanks.
 

ptbeale

Member
Jan 5, 2018
24
30
Acton, MA
Just for any future reference for any other poor soles that run into this issue, here's the youtube video that I watched that gave me enough info to get to the negative battery terminal {note, I was not locked out, I just referenced this video for it's details on how to remove the various bits up front to get to the battery}:

Like @kdday instructed above, I just removed the responder loop quick disconnect and the negative battery terminal, waited 5 minutes, and re-attached both. After a few minutes, the car came back to life and finally it came out of the "car off" mode and was fully functional.

I needed only a flat head screw driver to help (gently) release a few clips and a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut holding the negative terminal on. Will include both of those in the back of the car now in case this ever happens while on a trip.

Very curious now how it got into this state, would love to know more about the "gateway" and its role in this.
Also a little nervous this will happen again, but time will tell.

None the less, thanks again to @kdday for saving my weekend! It's folks like him on this board that make this place so great!
 

KyleDay

Active Member
Oct 29, 2016
1,342
2,959
AZ
Just for any future reference for any other poor soles that run into this issue, here's the youtube video that I watched that gave me enough info to get to the negative battery terminal {note, I was not locked out, I just referenced this video for it's details on how to remove the various bits up front to get to the battery}:

Like @kdday instructed above, I just removed the responder loop quick disconnect and the negative battery terminal, waited 5 minutes, and re-attached both. After a few minutes, the car came back to life and finally it came out of the "car off" mode and was fully functional.

I needed only a flat head screw driver to help (gently) release a few clips and a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut holding the negative terminal on. Will include both of those in the back of the car now in case this ever happens while on a trip.

Very curious now how it got into this state, would love to know more about the "gateway" and its role in this.
Also a little nervous this will happen again, but time will tell.

None the less, thanks again to @kdday for saving my weekend! It's folks like him on this board that make this place so great!

The gateway is an entirely separate computer, contained within the MCU unit, but separate from the “cid” computer (CID stands for center instrument display or something like that and runs the 17” screen and entertainment apps). The gateway is a small computer that talks to all the devices in the car on the Ethernet, canbus and LIN networks and it also assists with updating all the body controllers, etc. It runs FreeRTOS as its OS, I believe, and it contains important car configuration information, among other things. Anytime you have a weird car behavior and soft reboots of the MCU/cid don’t work, always worth a power cycle to get the gateway computer to reset.
 

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