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Subframe Bolt Came Out; Tesla Says My Fault??

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Tesla didn't tell me sh*t. For those following this thread--

(1) In response to my request for proof that I damaged the halfshaft, they sent me back the original photo with a red square around the halfshaft - IMG_6516.jpg. Of course I responded saying all you did was draw a box; where is the evidence that I caused the halfshaft to fail??

(2) I asked them which bolt came loose and they said you couldn't see it in the photo, so they highlighted it for me in this photo - image002.png

And in case you missed my post #3, I misread the service notes in my original post. Tesla is claiming I hit something that damaged the halfshaft, and that the resulting impact caused the bolt to come loose (not the other way around as I stated in my original post).

Make sure to file a complaint with NHTSA:
Subframe bolts don't come unscrewed unless they weren't properly torqued regardless of how badly you damage the car.
 
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Make sure to file a complaint with NHTSA:
Subframe bolts don't come unscrewed unless they weren't properly torqued regardless of how badly you damage the car.

I'm going with they didn't torque the part. I was changing my air filter and noticed one of the bolts that held the AC compressor in place was totally loose. Tesla quality!
 
Tesla didn't tell me sh*t. For those following this thread--

(1) In response to my request for proof that I damaged the halfshaft, they sent me back the original photo with a red square around the halfshaft - IMG_6516.jpg. Of course I responded saying all you did was draw a box; where is the evidence that I caused the halfshaft to fail??

(2) I asked them which bolt came loose and they said you couldn't see it in the photo, so they highlighted it for me in this photo - image002.png

And in case you missed my post #3, I misread the service notes in my original post. Tesla is claiming I hit something that damaged the halfshaft, and that the resulting impact caused the bolt to come loose (not the other way around as I stated in my original post).
That boot is nowhere near the bolt or subframe. Looks like they tore the boot when trying to get the bolt back in and are trying to put the blame on you.
 
That boot is nowhere near the bolt or subframe. Looks like they tore the boot when trying to get the bolt back in and are trying to put the blame on you.
Your 2 sentences contradict each other :)
Yes i agree with all other ppl, boot is nowhere near the bolt and no impact is visible (my guess) since they didn't show a pic. I smell BS...
If u had impact u'd have bigger problems n damages.
My MX had whole left side torn out n none of the bolts came loose lol

Also, boot rip is normal either for age or its possible the clamp was over-tighten n cut into it.
Usually boot rips right along the crevice somewhere in between.
 
My MX had whole left side torn out n none of the bolts came loose lol
Those things are forged and hardened, will likely be the last thing to break. But they still can be damaged. My SC found my subframe bolts stripped from the assembly process. If the same thing happened to the OP that would explain them just falling out on a brand new car.
 
Any update on this? I took mine in recently and they are claiming I hit something and the bolt sheared, which caused the suspension to make noises etc and now I have a 4K+ bill. All of this is after they initially diagnosed it as warranty repair work.
 
Any update on this? I took mine in recently and they are claiming I hit something and the bolt sheared, which caused the suspension to make noises etc and now I have a 4K+ bill. All of this is after they initially diagnosed it as warranty repair work.

Since they log all the pot holes you hit, ask them to tell you when you hit something?
 
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They maintained that I hit something but agreed to fix it as a courtesy. I think they knew they were full of it and ultimately wanted to do the right thing.

If you forced the issue in arbitration, there would be immediate red flags such as how did the subframe bolt break without you severely damaging other suspension components that have designed failure thresholds far lower than the crumple thresholds of subframes which in themselves have lower thresholds than the bolts that fasten them to the frame.

Their response is designed to catch the 50% of customers who will just rollover and pay it. If this happened to me outside of warranty I'd still insist they fix it for free lest I file an NHTSA complaint. Too many of those with subframes coming detached will result in an investigation and potentially a very expensive recall.
 
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Any update on this? I took mine in recently and they are claiming I hit something and the bolt sheared, which caused the suspension to make noises etc and now I have a 4K+ bill. All of this is after they initially diagnosed it as warranty repair work.
Can you share the estimate/work order with us so we can see which bolt they are talking about?

Edit: Please blank out any personal information or things you don't want everyone to see
 
This is the original quote. They knocked off 2k after I complained about how the half shafts have been replaced twice already with the dreaded shudder, the car is less than 3 years old etc. The 2k I'm sure they feel is nice, but is really irrelevant if I have to file with insurance. At that point anything above the deductible doesn't matter to me.
Screenshot_2022-11-22-00-27-36-59.jpg
 
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You could have totaled the X into an accordion and that bolt still wouldn't have un-screwed. It MIGHT have broken in that case.

Just turn it over to your insurance company under a comp claim and they should set Tesla straight.

I'm dealing with the same issue right now. Are you saying comp claim as in comprehensive claim or what is meant by that? Not sure how it would swing as comprehensive if they are claiming it was damaged on a collision, but would love to be able to do this since my comp deductible is only 250 haha.
 
Does this make sense to anyone? We were driving the other day and suddenly started hearing a large rattling/clanking noise. We took the car into the dealer the next day. They said the right front subframe bolt became completely dislodged, which as a result caused the right front halfshaft boot to become torn. They put the bolt back in, but to fix the halfshaft (no idea what that is) will cost $800. The dealership said we "must" have hit something or gone offroading to cause the bolt to unscrew itself, so they are refusing to cover it under warranty. We never hit anything, and my wife definitely does not go offroading in between shuttling the kids to basketball and tennis practice. And there is no physical evidence of any damage to the car whatsoever. It is an April 2020 Long Range Plus with 20k miles, so still pretty new. Any advice as to whether what Tesla is saying makes sense and how to approach this?

Below is what they wrote up in my invoice/estimate:

Concern: Rattle or squeak - customer states: Loud rattling from under car when driving - Customer stopped by service center 11/15/21, confirmed noise/vibration, technician inspected and found the Right Front Subframe Bolt dislodged from impact to Right Front Halfshaft which resulted in the Right Front Halfshaft boot to be torn, secured and torqued all suspension bolts to specifications, recommend replacement of Right Front Halfshaft
Hey man, I’m going through something really similar, and they’re telling me that they have to order an entirely new subframe because the nut is typically wedded onto the subframe, but it’s completely missing.

They said it’s against their policy to do any type of welding so they need to order a new part. Was your nut still attached to the subframe?
 
Hey man, I’m going through something really similar, and they’re telling me that they have to order an entirely new subframe because the nut is typically wedded onto the subframe, but it’s completely missing.

They said it’s against their policy to do any type of welding so they need to order a new part. Was your nut still attached to the subframe?

Attaching photo technician sent. The bolt was there, but I think they removed it. He’s pointing to where the nut should be welded on I believe.
 

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Hey man, I’m going through something really similar, and they’re telling me that they have to order an entirely new subframe because the nut is typically wedded onto the subframe, but it’s completely missing.

They said it’s against their policy to do any type of welding so they need to order a new part. Was your nut still attached to the subframe?
I'm sure there's some legit legal liability reason for them not to change the specifications or weld, but I'd look for a third party to "fix this right." I'm not the expert to tell you what is right, but I've got to believe there are solutions that will secure a loose nut as well or better than that weld did and hold things together just the same. I'm also not the expert to tell you whether or not that is legal as far as the NHTSA is concerned, but you're not the car the car manufacturer, and while I'm also not the lawyer to tell you whether or not there is any liability for you, I doubt there is any liability for you (or your 3rd party repair hire) until/unless the "modification" causes death to someone else.

ETA: I mean if you are out of warranty or they are refusing to acknowledge warranty failure and you can't or don't want to expend the effort to prove it is one. Otherwise, if they are replacing the subframe for free (or for a warranty deductible), so be it.