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Subwoofer and Door Speakers dead for months

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I have recently been to service and had a frustrating experience where the techs could not fix the issue as presented, though they acknowledged it. The solution was literally to wait for a couple of updates and see if they would fix things automagically. If this is an issue with my car, maybe it is an issue with others as well?

In the past I had been used to a bug where the rear audio including door speakers and subwoofer would drop out at times. In almost every case a 2 button MCU reset fixed the issue and I had audio back.

When I recently got a new MCU a few months ago due to a USB issue (USB dead could not be fixed with a new wiring harness or USB unit) this problem went away entirely for a while. For a few months, the audio was rock steady, and the USB issues were totally fixed. I was super happy and back to the Tesla experience. Not sure if that MCU was new or refurbished. I imagine they might have had some extras, since tons of early model 3's were getting HW3 MCU's.

Now I am back to listening to all music in the most horrible of formats, with just the tweeters working. First world problems I guess...

I hope that this issue is something others are having as well because if it's just me I don't see a lot of hope that some programmer is just going to fix me. I guess I need to be patient somewhat as they might do just that.

In possibly related or unrelated mention- The MCU itself also lags significantly every about 10-20 seconds. If I have the backup camera on, it will drop frames regularly. If I am playing sky force it will basically try to kill me by going to 5 fps every 10-20 seconds. I cannot prove this is related or unrelated.

I asked them for another new MCU but they didn't really respond to that request and I didn't get pushy. I'll be patient and try to wait for a firmware update to see if that is fruitful.
 
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Wow, I sort of suspect this isn't something they will be working on unless I am really lucky.

I will be good and wait "An update or two" before escalating this. I actually would feel better if even one other person had this issue, as that might elevate the priority at Tesla.
 
For the past few weeks Ive only only audio coming from the tweeters and my microphone isn't working. A remote technician tried pushing a new update for the firmware but it didnt work. I have a appointment with the service center at the end of the month. Will keep you posted.

My current versionis 2022.12.3.2
 
I'm having this issue as well. I got my 2018 just over a month ago. Sounds seemed to be okay when I got it. Last week I noticed it seemed a bit weak but didn't really put any effort into confirming. I did notice mine didn't have the subwoofer control others had mentioned. Saw one of the posts complaining about missing rear speakers yesterday and performed a reset as I exited my vehicle while running an errand. Got back to the car and the wind was much fuller and the subwoofer control was now there. Today, I got into the car to go to lunch and noticed the bad was not quite as full. Checked the EQ and the subwoofer control was gone again. Reset it again when I got back to work. I'll check it when I leave but there definitely seems to be an issue.
 
I'm having this issue as well. I got my 2018 just over a month ago. Sounds seemed to be okay when I got it. Last week I noticed it seemed a bit weak but didn't really put any effort into confirming. I did notice mine didn't have the subwoofer control others had mentioned. Saw one of the posts complaining about missing rear speakers yesterday and performed a reset as I exited my vehicle while running an errand. Got back to the car and the wind was much fuller and the subwoofer control was now there. Today, I got into the car to go to lunch and noticed the bad was not quite as full. Checked the EQ and the subwoofer control was gone again. Reset it again when I got back to work. I'll check it when I leave but there definitely seems to be an issue.
Oh that is promising, as mine is also a 2018. I will be happy for my thump back.
 
Just a quick update. The subwoofer controls were available last night. But diapered this morning. I didn't really get to check the audio at higher volumes, but at lower volume, there still seemed to be a lower rumbling than I would expect if the subwoofer wasn't working. Seems there may be various components that may or may not be working with this issue.
 
I would take it in to service, so they realize this issue is larger than just the car they know about.

Sunnyvale Service literally told me they cannot fix it, only a "Firmware Update" will fix it.
I'm thinking there are going to say the same thing--firmware issue when i go into service this Monday. A remote tech tried forcing an update but it didnt work. I also bought a working used amp from someone and tried swapping- still no sound.
 
I'm thinking there are going to say the same thing--firmware issue when i go into service this Monday. A remote tech tried forcing an update but it didnt work. I also bought a working used amp from someone and tried swapping- still no sound.
Let us know what you hear Monday. My car is rebuilt due to a minor fender bender so I’m worried the SC won’t touch it.
 
Let us know what you hear Monday. My car is rebuilt due to a minor fender bender so I’m worried the SC won’t touch it.
Tesla's had my car for a day and half- i'm told there is a short circuit with the computer caused by moving the subwoofer/amplifer when i installed sound dampening material in the trunk. They are doing a few more diagnostics today but high possibility i will need a new computer. They claim outside influence caused the issue, repair is not covered under warranty--estimate to be $1-2k but will get the breakdown of parts/labor once they figure it out.
 
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Tesla's had my car for a day and half- i'm told there is a short circuit with the computer caused by moving the subwoofer/amplifer when i installed sound dampening material in the trunk. They are doing a few more diagonostics today but high possibility i will need a new computer. They are claim outside influence caused the issue, repair is not covered under warranty--estimate to be $1-2k but will get the breakdown of parts/labor once they figure it out.
I would ask for photos of any damage they found that shows what you did caused the problem and to return any parts to you that they replace.
 
Can you get a second "opinion" from another service center or an independent car stereo installer or escalate to someone with technical expertise?

This debugging analysis they gave you sounds inept.
* Shorting out a speaker should at worst case burn out one transistor in that one power amp channel, and that's if the amp was not designed well enough to survive a temporary short by limiting the current or blowing a fuse, and it wouldn't affect all the other audio channels or the mic.
* Shorting out the signal input to the power amp should have no lasting impact.
* Shorting out the power wires to an amp could damage the power supply if it doesn't have a fuse.

I don't see how this could wreck the computer. They sound like they just want to try replacing large parts hoping that might fix it rather than actually debug the problem.
 
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Can you get a second "opinion" from another service center or an independent car stereo installer or escalate to someone with technical expertise?

This debugging analysis they gave you sounds inept.
* Shorting out a speaker should at worst case burn out one transistor in that one power amp channel, and that's if the amp was not designed well enough to survive a temporary short by limiting the current or blowing a fuse, and it wouldn't affect all the other audio channels or the mic.
* Shorting out the signal input to the power amp should have no lasting impact.
* Shorting out the power wires to an amp could damage the power supply if it doesn't have a fuse.

I don't see how this could wreck the computer. They sound like they just want to try replacing large parts hoping that might fix it rather than actually debug the problem.
Or it could be there is a known problem with computers losing the audio to the subwoofer and door speakers. Service is trying to make that your fault.
 
Can you get a second "opinion" from another service center or an independent car stereo installer or escalate to someone with technical expertise?

This debugging analysis they gave you sounds inept.
* Shorting out a speaker should at worst case burn out one transistor in that one power amp channel, and that's if the amp was not designed well enough to survive a temporary short by limiting the current or blowing a fuse, and it wouldn't affect all the other audio channels or the mic.
* Shorting out the signal input to the power amp should have no lasting impact.
* Shorting out the power wires to an amp could damage the power supply if it doesn't have a fuse.

I don't see how this could wreck the computer. They sound like they just want to try replacing large parts hoping that might fix it rather than actually debug the problem.
Below is their explanation. I'm not sure what my options are in terms of 2nd opinion. I could perhaps request another service appointment at a different service center but they will charge me another $255 for diagnosis? I'm told two different tech inspected my vehicle over the course of 2 days having my car. If anyone knows a indepedant shop in the SF-Bay Area region that can take a look please let me know.
Description of issue.GIF
 
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