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Subwoofer with custom box installed in my Tesla Model S!

Discussion in 'Model S' started by Jason Shelton, Aug 11, 2016.

  1. Jason Shelton

    Jason Shelton Member

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    So I initially thought about getting the NVX subwoofer system installed in my Model S. As I searched around "Orange County" and "Los Angeles" I couldn't find a shop to install the NVX kit. So I decided to go with Audio Lab in Laguna Hills. They made a custom subwoofer box that is insane and looks great! The subwoofer is a 10" hertz and the sub amp is a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D. The sound is amazing and adds so much to the premium Tesla sound package. Below are some pictures, enjoy!
    IMG_5850-1.JPG IMG_5851.JPG IMG_5849-1.JPG IMG_5848.JPG
     
    • Like x 3
  2. demundus

    demundus Member

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    This looks really good. Mind if I ask the price?
     
  3. Jason Shelton

    Jason Shelton Member

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    $1,300 thanks for checking it out!
     
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  4. theslimshadyist

    theslimshadyist NashVegas!

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    A few questions if you don't mind me asking.

    1. Do you order the car with the UHFS? I ask because personally, I think it sounds sub par at best.
    2. Did they bypass the factory sub?
    3. Are all of the other speakers factory or did you replace any with aftermarkets?
    4. Is that an 8" or 10" sub enclosure they installed in that space?
     
  5. bsk997

    bsk997 Member

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    Very nice install!
    Why'd you end up choosing the custom 10" hertz install vs the NVX?
    I've been contemplating the NVX sub but haven't made up my mind.
     
  6. Jason Shelton

    Jason Shelton Member

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    Most if not all shops told me that the NVX sub isn't that great. I was told that the hertz was a lot better.
     
  7. Jason Shelton

    Jason Shelton Member

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    1) Yes I did. The stock sub sounds ok but def lacks bass... I like bass a lot I think it makes a good system to have a solid sub.
    2) YES they did.
    3) All the speakers are factory. I was told that there is no reason to replace the speakers as they are very good. I fully agree with them.
    4) it is a 10inch and perfect for my car.
     
  8. theslimshadyist

    theslimshadyist NashVegas!

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    Awesome and thanks for the info. I think I will do this to my car when it arrives!
     
  9. murraypetera

    murraypetera Member

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    Im in the middle of a very simular install. Did your installer use input to the amp from the existing sub or did they tap into the feeds up in front of the car?

    The amp I have has speaker level input as well as RCA. If I use the speaker level input and put the amp in the back I can save time and effort of hooking into the pre-amp level outputs.

    Thoughts on this?

    NVX kit hooks up to front left & right but never mention leveraging the existing sub for a source for some reason.

    Thank
     
  10. Model S M.D.

    Model S M.D. Ludicrous Radiologist

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    Very clean install, well done.
     
  11. Zextraterrestrial

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    #11 Zextraterrestrial, Nov 14, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2016
    really? the NVX are really pretty good for the price of the speaker. ~$150 for the 10" / $200 for the 12"
    once the 10" breaks in it will kill a similar JL speaker. even sounded better when it was brand new.
    but I have never heard of or heard a hertz speaker. It seems like there are lots of good (and many $$$) speakers out there now

    I just got a 12" NVX + the biggest NVX sub amp to replace the 10"VCW and 750 amp. Almost put the box together last night, speaker facing down & taking up a little more than 1/2 of the foot well.
    massive 12" compared to the 10" - 30 lb speaker! should be sick
     
  12. HebrHmr

    HebrHmr Member

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    I don't know car audio that well. What's the reason to bypass the stock sub rather than incorporate it? Why is more not better in this case?
     
  13. SoCaliGuy81

    SoCaliGuy81 Member

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    Hey guys, I'm new to the Tesla family as I just bought a 2013 P85+ (studio sound) CPO last month, but I do have 20 years experience in car audio and mobile electronics. I held an MECP Level 2 Certification for years and have designed, installed or listened to just about every brand of stereo/speaker there is. I hold 1st & 2nd place victories from IASCA & USAC for SQ/SPL competition and attend SEMA, CEDIA & CES religiously in order to stay current with what the market is offering.

    Well, now that you know a little of my background, please feel free to pick my brain anytime.

    Okay, back to the thread...

    HebrHmr, one might want to bypass an OEM sub in a vehicle when adding an aftermarket sub for one or more of the following reasons:
    1. Phasing: Depending on the physical orientation of the OEM sub versus your aftermarket sub/s, the phasing could be terribly affected. There might be tons of bass at the windshield or right behind the driver's seat, but virtually no bass at the listening positions.
    2. Impedance: Tapping into high-level speaker leads can affect some OEM amplifiers' automatic anti-clipping circuitry which relies on impedance feedback to correctly measure distortion. Example, on my Tahoe, you could rotate the volume knob endlessly and the Bose system would just know where to stop without reaching a potentiometer's physical limits.
    3. Efficiency: The OEM subwoofer would be drawing power from the system still, yet be virtually inaudible.
    4. Sound Quality: The OEM subwoofer could be adding distorted bass to the system versus the aftermarket subs.

    In my opinion, you can apply numbers 1 and 3 while number 4 is debateable. The fact that Tesla uses a ported subwoofer that faces sideways and relies on the rear compartment to help create a boomier and deeper bass effect, creates a difficult phasing issue. The exception for the Model S would be if you were to build a mirror image enclosure for the driver's side. For the D models, this would be the best overall solution in my opinion.

    Here are my personal goals with the audio system I would like in my MS:
    -Better Overall SQ
    -Louder & Tighter Bass (Sounds good with windows up OR down)
    -Higher Energy Efficiency
    -Stealth Installation
    -Low Weight

    Here's my design dilemma.. I'm torn between installing a subwoofer in the frunk versus the rear footwell or side compartments. While I appreciate what a good hatch can do for bass, it still lends to a bit of sloppiness because of all the phasing and reverberation issues that affect the waves before they hit your ears. I learned the value of Point Source stereo setups from the engineers at Eclipse, and by some hifi speaker engineers. Point Source means that you ultimately want all of your sound (ALL frequencies) coming from only 2 point sources (left & right front stage). We've all gotten used to having the sub behind us because until now, there was that pesky ICE in people's way. But in all honesty, as "omnidirectional" as low frequencies are labeled, we all know the bass is behind us. I believe s1nn Audio and Tesla really missed an opportunity to use the vast space in the dash area for subwoofer placement. In addition to the sound being phenomenally tight, it would also effectively free up usable cargo room in the trunk.

    Okay, so after some research, I've settled on the following initial system:
    -JL Audio MHX300/1
    -
     
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  14. SoCaliGuy81

    SoCaliGuy81 Member

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    Okay, so after some research, I've settled on the following initial setup:
    -JL Audio MHX300/1 (Yes, I know this is the Marine version, but it was $150 on Amazon)
    -JL Audio 10W0V3-4

    The amp is tiny, has high-level inputs, remote bass knob capability, the best Class D (NexD) circuitry IMO = super high efficiency, flexible impedance (2-4ohms), and it will push 160-250 watts @ 12.5V. I will tap into the high level sub output right at the OEM amp to grab input for the amp. Basically, I will be cutting the subwoofer high level speaker wire, running the end from the OEM amp to the MHX amp, and then connect the other end that goes to the OEM sub to the Sub Output to the MHX. Then, I think I'll remove the OEM sub enclosure altogether to free up weight/cargo room, and simply extend the wire to my custom 10" enclosure I will build for the footwell.

    The 10W0V3 will be installed in a small, sealed, fiberglass/MDF/Carbon Fiber enclosure that sits dead center in the footwell and fires directly up. Going to try and get as close to .7 cu/ft as possible.

    I will update this project next week with photos and an in-depth write-up started as a new thread. If you want to see my last write-up that went super sticky, here's the link:
    Adding Bass To 2007+ Tahoe w/Bose&Nav - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

    Thoughts, questions, comments are appreciated!
     
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  15. marty2112

    marty2112 Member

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    Please keep us updated. I'm getting less and less enamored with LH.

    I do remember my IASCA days......
     
  16. ekkeman

    ekkeman New Member

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    Where can I find an installer in the LA area? I have a rockford amp, sub, & need help sealing the deal on the installation. of the amplifier. I already have the sub in the box with spray damping on the inside & dynamat on the outside. I just need to wire in the audio & power to the amplifier which is installed on the inside of the tub in my frunk.
     
  17. Sp33dyFish

    Sp33dyFish New Member

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    San Diego
  18. theslimshadyist

    theslimshadyist NashVegas!

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    Hertz audio speakers and subs are incredible. I've had them installed in 2 previous cars and the first time I had to order them from a car audio shop in LA because at the time, there were no dealers in Nashville. I highly recommend!
     

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