Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Wiki Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Regarding supercharging, from my experience the current from the supercharger is the same, you just have lower charging power peak with the 350V pack. From what I've seen it may peak the beginning with 125kW, but will settle and stay at a combined SoC and charging level around 140-145 until SoC is 50% and then slowly go down a combined 120.
 
That is literally their explanation - we have improved your car with games, farts and optimized battery management. No reason stated to why optimized battery management is needed or why farts are a key feature to have. They know what is best for us and we should be grateful for any improvement they make.
Hehe, yes, in Teslas alternative reality it probably is an improvement. In the real world it is inflicting damage to the property of another person without the other person’s permission.
 
Hehe, yes, in Teslas alternative reality it probably is an improvement. In the real world it is inflicting damage to the property of another person without the other person’s permission.

In reality, it improves the company bottom line by reducing warranty replacements of the HV pack. Sheeple should not question, as it has been stated that Tesla's goal is sustainable energy, not an ever rising stock price.

My goal is to not give them any more of my money. Will probably decline the new MS with a EDD in May.
 
This is terrible advice, since nothing related to charging to 100% and using the full capacity can "blow a module".

THanks for that info. As a datapoint I was able to generate error msgs that resulted in a new battery under warranty by doing a long sustained 120+mph run. I found a very safe place to run at nearly top speed for a very long time, in the summer, and within a few minutes I got the error msg that said not to engage in hard acceleration. Tesla road service said I could still drive my car but to bring it in when convenient. I continued my road trip and got a new battery when I got back.
 
THanks for that info. As a datapoint I was able to generate error msgs that resulted in a new battery under warranty by doing a long sustained 120+mph run. I found a very safe place to run at nearly top speed for a very long time, in the summer, and within a few minutes I got the error msg that said not to engage in hard acceleration. Tesla road service said I could still drive my car but to bring it in when convenient. I continued my road trip and got a new battery when I got back.

Coincidence. Most likely something was already messed up and would have presented anyway. The "no hard acceleration" type messages are generally related to weak contactor hold (either the contactors or BMS circuit that holds them shut), or due to a weak main pack fuse (before the electronic ones were a thing).

Top speed runs don't actually tax the batteries much at all compared to things like launching the car over and over. During a hold-top-speed run, current tapers off quickly to a sustained level that the battery can do all day long without issue. The BMS also implements a clever algorithm to taper current in a sensible way to ensure wear over a short time period remains reasonable even with back to back launches and other hard use.

In fact, things like driving a Model X down the highway with a trailer will use more power than a top speed run, and still be perfectly fine on the pack.

Realistically, the hardest things you can do to a battery pack would be back to back to back launches of a hot battery. That's about it, and even then the BMS doesn't let you get away with much (which is one of the reasons back to back runs are always progressively slower).

Overall there's nothing you can do through normal operation (as in, without hacks or cheating somehow by like opening the battery) that can cause actual damage to the battery. Degradation, sure, but not a failure.
 
I'll just chime in again to reiterate that this entire issue has nothing whatsoever to do with fires.


This is terrible advice, since nothing related to charging to 100% and using the full capacity can "blow a module". You're just going to degrade the pack faster, and Tesla explicitly disclaims capacity loss due to degradation in the warranty the applies to all 85s.

The newer 350V "85" packs are a catch 22, IMO. The lower voltage means ~12% higher current required for the same performance, adding additional wear to HV components.

So "blow a module" is not an accurate technical description. I agree.

Hard use might throw a module or string out of balance quicker, and result in a failure to charge or early shutdown, which could lead to a warranty replacement.
 
Top speed runs don't actually tax the batteries much at all
My Teslalog file ( maybe I can find it but the website seems to be down) indicated that it was a sustained wide open throttle, not just cruising at a high speed, but a sustained wide open throttel, at over 400 kW. I doubt a Model X at regular highway speed needs to sustain more than 400 kW even w trailer.

But anyway, I did take my car to the drag strip a number of times prior to this, and my WOT counter was probably well up there, but this very sustained WOT definitely did cause something to throw an error message — perhaps on top of the multiple prior WOTs. Also the battery would always go into super noisy cooling mode after these sustained WOTs.

Sustained WOTs definitely tax the battery, at least under older software, maybe they dialed it back now, although my drag strip performance has not changed much: prior best after Ludi upgrade of 11.3 to recent 11.5 last year (under slightly less than ideal conditions).
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: aerodyne
Coincidence. Most likely something was already messed up and would have presented anyway. The "no hard acceleration" type messages are generally related to weak contactor hold (either the contactors or BMS circuit that holds them shut), or due to a weak main pack fuse (before the electronic ones were a thing).

Top speed runs don't actually tax the batteries much at all compared to things like launching the car over and over. During a hold-top-speed run, current tapers off quickly to a sustained level that the battery can do all day long without issue. The BMS also implements a clever algorithm to taper current in a sensible way to ensure wear over a short time period remains reasonable even with back to back launches and other hard use.

In fact, things like driving a Model X down the highway with a trailer will use more power than a top speed run, and still be perfectly fine on the pack.

Realistically, the hardest things you can do to a battery pack would be back to back to back launches of a hot battery. That's about it, and even then the BMS doesn't let you get away with much (which is one of the reasons back to back runs are always progressively slower).

Overall there's nothing you can do through normal operation (as in, without hacks or cheating somehow by like opening the battery) that can cause actual damage to the battery. Degradation, sure, but not a failure.
So, say someone has one brick of cells in a 75 pack, that is 60-70mV lower than the rest of the pack, throws off range calculations when SOC is below 20%, also the firmware update end of 2020 that increased supercharging rates for other vehicles killed rates for this one, and of course you know what service says :) It's just fine..... What would the tipping point be for a case like this?
 
My Teslalog file ( maybe I can find it but the website seems to be down) indicated that it was a sustained wide open throttle, not just cruising at a high speed, but a sustained wide open throttel, at over 400 kW. I doubt a Model X at regular highway speed needs to sustain more than 400 kW even w trailer.

But anyway, I did take my car to the drag strip a number of times prior to this, and my WOT counter was probably well up there, but this very sustained WOT definitely did cause something to throw an error message — perhaps on top of the multiple prior WOTs. Also the battery would always go into super noisy cooling mode after these sustained WOTs.

Sustained WOTs definitely tax the battery, at least under older software, maybe they dialed it back now, although my drag strip performance has not changed much: prior best after Ludi upgrade of 11.3 to recent 11.5 last year (under slightly less than ideal conditions).
I'll need to test again, but pulling my skid steer on a trailer (within the towing limits of the Model X but just barely) cruising on the freeway was doing 1000Wh/mile.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MP3Mike
I'll need to test again, but pulling my skid steer on a trailer (within the towing limits of the Model X but just barely) cruising on the freeway was doing 1000Wh/mile.
The 400 kW number is not a number per mile, but just a peak power number, like horsepower on a dynometer.

The peak power for Ludicrous is about 450 kW and then in drifts down as speed goes up.
 
The 400 kW number is not a number per mile, but just a peak power number, like horsepower on a dynometer.

The peak power for Ludicrous is about 450 kW and then in drifts down as speed goes up.
Yes, I know that. My MX75D tops out at about 320kW output. I was stating what my car was drawing per mile towing a John Deere Skid Steer. I sold that one but just bought a Bobcat, I'll be picking that up this week hopefully now that it's thawed from where it was frozen to the ground (literally). I'll need to see what the current draw is while towing on the freeway.