Catman20009
Member
Norge, your post was referenced in a LA Times article today about Tesla M3 issues.
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Norge, your post was referenced in a LA Times article today about Tesla M3 issues.
Tesla should fix this. The rubber supports need to be adjusted first and then maybe can deform the hood a bit to match it up. Tesla should experiment on some of their cars first and get the technique down. Should not repaint since it won’t be as hard or durable as factory paint. Their stamping press needs adjustment. Would have expected they would have tweaked their stamping by this time to get it tuned up before ramp.
dhanson865
Well-Known Member
18" is the smallest wheel that will clear the brake calipers. You can't put 17" wheels on a Tesla of any kind.
The Tesla Model 3 Wheel and Tire Guide
bnsfengineer
Active Member
bnsfengineer
Active Member
MikeBur
ManualPilot
The one place you want the frunk hood very slightly lower than the mating surface is at the front. If the front edge of the hood is higher than or even level with the the front bumper it will be a stone chip magnet like on my previous cars.
If the hood is slightly sunken when I get my car I’m just going leave it beyond what I can adjust with bump stops. New hoods come primed NOT painted from the factory. As I posted back in post #27 here I do not want any non factory paint unless absolutely necessary say following a collision.
If the hood is slightly sunken when I get my car I’m just going leave it beyond what I can adjust with bump stops. New hoods come primed NOT painted from the factory. As I posted back in post #27 here I do not want any non factory paint unless absolutely necessary say following a collision.
Rotate it. It will rise as it’s loosened, raising the hood. So if it’s already tightened all the way down, it won’t drop the hood any further. Then, I would look at tightening the rubber bumper on underside of the hood.
You’re welcome.
Posted the image in the other post when out of town without access to my Model S.
I had found a glimpse of it on a YouTube video. So, I posted a screen shot.
Shot these new images this morning.
I have the same issue on my Model 3 VIN 53XX. Wanted to report that I had moderate success adjusting the hood latching mechanism and also the hood rubber bumpers out further. The hood is a little closer to the fenders. Not perfect but not much better. Agree there is still some work to do on the hood stamping but I love the car too much to sweat it. My service center is over 150 miles away and I'm a mechanic so it wasn't a big deal to try this myself.
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I have a 54XX model 3 with the "sunken" hood. Also, it was very hard to close---to the point that I thought it would bend. I removed the front trunk striker ( the hook bolted to the trunk lid with two 8mm torx screws). I started to shim the striker away from the lid with fender washers. If you are not familiar, fender washers have a larger outside diameter relative to the bolt hole which in this case provides a larger surface area for the striker to clamp to when tightening the mounting bolts. When I reached about a1/8" stack of washers, the lid closing effort dropped dramatically. I also noticed most of the sunken appearance on the trunk was gone and now looked acceptable. With the shimmed striker, the trunk lid could be further adjusted with the two rubber bumpers until they just touched the body with enough pressure so the lid couldn't be pushed down in either front corner. If these are adjusted too high to try to get rid of some of the sunken appearance without raising the striker, the lid will be almost impossible to close. Going any higher then 1/8" (on my car) will eliminate the sunken appearance but will start to lift the leading edge of the hood above the bumper cover which is undesirable. I am now satisfied with the appearance and am going no farther with this. Hope it will work for others.
MacGreiner
5YJ
Also have sunken hood. 5300 VIN.One side deeper than the other. Norge did you take yours in to Rockville?
This thread is causing me to develop a concern about quality control. Fit and finish issues shouldn't still be a concern 5-6xxx vehicles into a production run. While it is encouraging that the SC can take care of most issues, I live 2 hours from a SC, and the inconvenience is not negligible.
Fortunately, I am not due to receive my copy for at least a year. Hopefully, these problems will have been resolved .... I will be watching this thread closely.
Fortunately, I am not due to receive my copy for at least a year. Hopefully, these problems will have been resolved .... I will be watching this thread closely.
Fit and finish is an issue but one I expected. What I didn't expect was the idiotic "smartphone key." I hope I don't get mugged someday while fumbling with my smartphone to connect with the car.
I also have the sunken hood but blew it off at least until I hear any surefire solution.
My Model 3 was sent out to local Tesla approved body shop for 4 days. It came back literally same. Not much improvement. I don't trust local body shop enough to push them to reshape the hood. Basically, no effective solution.
I took the cover off the latch area in the Frunk today. It pulls straight up off a couple off molded guides at the bottom. You can then see two bolts that take a 10mm socket to loosen. There is a slotted hole on each side of the latch to adjust it up or down. I removed the shims that I added to the striker (described in an earlier reply) and adjusted the latch higher and achieved the same fit that I wanted without the shims. It was interesting to see the bolts and washers had paint marks showing where the bolts were originally installed. Someone had adjusted the hood before delivery and lowered the latch. I adjusted the latch bolts to line up with the paint marks and (drumroll) the hood closed to where I had adjusted it with the shims. If the car had been left alone, I wouldn't have had a problem with the "sunken hood" that would have been obvious enough to warrant a repair.
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