Suntek vs XPEL PPF for 2023 Black M3P - Which is a Better Brand?

[SithLord]

Just bought a brand new 2023 M3P with a black exterior and picked it up, last Tuesday, from the dealership.

Since I live in Southern California where everyone is forced to drive on freeways, my peers are telling me to consider paint protection film (PPF) before driving it anywhere! They are also saying that ceramic coating should come second...

Shopped around at two different local body shops and these are the competing brands/work orders from each of them:

1. Full front-end protection package using XPEL Ultimate plus film (ceramic coating including on top of PPF film).
2. Suntek Ultra Paint Protection Film (Full Front Full Front Clear Bra Installation Bumper, Full Hood, Full Fenders).

Have never had any of this done to any of my previous cars (which were non-electric)...

What brand/work order seems better (item # 1 or item #2)?

Any other items (e.g. a differing competing product and type of work order) would be also welcomed and appreciated as answers to this post.

Thank you!

 

[SithLord]

Am looking to tint my brand new 2023 Tesla M3P...

Went to two different local body shops and got the following two competing work orders:

3M ceramic IR vs 3M FX-Premium Tint

Question(s):

1. Which brand is better?
2. What's a good tint / shade level to request if living in Southern California?
3. Should the entire sun roof be tinted or just the part where the back passengers sit?

 

[launchd]

As far as PPF is concerned, I've had both film brands installed on my vehicles before and I can honestly say, if one is better than the other, it isn't discernible to me. The real decision has always been what installer to use. I got parts of my M3LR wrapped by a very reputable detailer in my area and man was it done right. They use XPEL, so XPEL is what I ended up with. No pre-cut pieces of film were used in my install, it all came from a roll and was cut to fit. I paid for a "driver's package" which included; front bumper, hood, front fenders, headlights, mirror caps, rocker panels, lower doors, behind each wheel well and a luggage strip on the trunk lip. Every edge that could be tucked is tucked for a seamless application. You can not tell the front end of my car is wrapped because you can not find where the film ends anywhere. I was told some disassembly was performed but I didn't ask what this included. Again, detailer matters most. Trust the detailer, trust what they use and trust that they will stand behind their services and products offered.

I believe for tint, the same applies. Find a reputable detailer and let them tint your car with whatever film they use. If they're reputable, they're using a good tint film and most importantly, they will stand behind their work. Regarding the darkness level, this website has a lot of examples that you can look through. I ended up with XPEL Prime XR Black 20% on the side windows and rear window. This was the film the detailer used so this was the film that was installed. The rear window was done in one piece which I would say is important enough to ask about. You do not want to see a seam from two pieces of film being used to cover the rear window. I did not do the windshield or roof. For me, the roof was fine as is and since windshields get pelted the most out of any window on your car, I stay away from tinting them because my luck is bad (I tend to crack one a year).

 

[heavyD]

Installer skill is more important than brand of film at the end of the day. That said there are differences in the films. XPEL has a stronger adhesive and is a little thicker than Suntek Ultra. However Suntek has slightly less orange peel and some think more clear. I have used both and I go back to XPEL Ultimate as Suntek Ultra is the only film that I have had issues with film coming off in the car wash as the adhesive just isn't as strong as XPEL or even 3M.

 

[Ppf.nyc]

Just bought a brand new 2023 M3P with a black exterior and picked it up, last Tuesday, from the dealership.

Since I live in Southern California where everyone is forced to drive on freeways, my peers are telling me to consider paint protection film (PPF) before driving it anywhere! They are also saying that ceramic coating should come second...

Shopped around at two different local body shops and these are the competing brands/work orders from each of them:

1. Full front-end protection package using XPEL Ultimate plus film (ceramic coating including on top of PPF film).
2. Suntek Ultra Paint Protection Film (Full Front Full Front Clear Bra Installation Bumper, Full Hood, Full Fenders).

Have never had any of this done to any of my previous cars (which were non-electric)...

What brand/work order seems better (item # 1 or item #2)?

Any other items (e.g. a differing competing product and type of work order) would be also welcomed and appreciated as answers to this post.

Thank you!

Compare apples to apples:. Xpel Fusion ppf vs. Suntek Reaction ppf. Both are 8mil thick and they got ceramic coating built into the top coat (the coated film looks so much better on dark color cars) I'm was a suntek vendor but switched to Xpel few years ago. Check YouTube for comparison. If you don't have front mud guards, definitely get the factory ppf that goes on the bottom of the rear door.

 

[Ppf.nyc]

As far as PPF is concerned, I've had both film brands installed on my vehicles before and I can honestly say, if one is better than the other, it isn't discernible to me. The real decision has always been what installer to use. I got parts of my M3LR wrapped by a very reputable detailer in my area and man was it done right. They use XPEL, so XPEL is what I ended up with. No pre-cut pieces of film were used in my install, it all came from a roll and was cut to fit. I paid for a "driver's package" which included; front bumper, hood, front fenders, headlights, mirror caps, rocker panels, lower doors, behind each wheel well and a luggage strip on the trunk lip. Every edge that could be tucked is tucked for a seamless application. You can not tell the front end of my car is wrapped because you can not find where the film ends anywhere. I was told some disassembly was performed but I didn't ask what this included. Again, detailer matters most. Trust the detailer, trust what they use and trust that they will stand behind their services and products offered.

I believe for tint, the same applies. Find a reputable detailer and let them tint your car with whatever film they use. If they're reputable, they're using a good tint film and most importantly, they will stand behind their work. Regarding the darkness level, this website has a lot of examples that you can look through. I ended up with XPEL Prime XR Black 20% on the side windows and rear window. This was the film the detailer used so this was the film that was installed. The rear window was done in one piece which I would say is important enough to ask about. You do not want to see a seam from two pieces of film being used to cover the rear window. I did not do the windshield or roof. For me, the roof was fine as is and since windshields get pelted the most out of any window on your car, I stay away from tinting them because my luck is bad (I tend to crack one a year).

Tip: Find a cheap (because of your bad luck) but good tint installer to do the windshield 70%(almost clear) because it let in the most heat.

 

[Ppf.nyc]

Installer skill is more important than brand of film at the end of the day. That said there are differences in the films. XPEL has a stronger adhesive and is a little thicker than Suntek Ultra. However Suntek has slightly less orange peel and some think more clear. I have used both and I go back to XPEL Ultimate as Suntek Ultra is the only film that I have had issues with film coming off in the car wash as the adhesive just isn't as strong as XPEL or even 3M.

Solid ppf adhesion is subject to how well the panel edges were prepped before installation, and how hot (as hot as possible {based on installer experience}) was the heat gun the installer use to seal the edge.

 

[heavyD]

Solid ppf adhesion is subject to how well the panel edges were prepped before installation, and how hot (as hot as possible {based on installer experience}) was the heat gun the installer use to seal the edge.

Yes but that doesn't change the fact that XPEL uses a stronger adhesive. It makes XPEL a little more difficult to install but will adhere to the car better in the long run.

 

[Ppf.nyc]

Yes but that doesn't change the fact that XPEL uses a stronger adhesive. It makes XPEL a little more difficult to install but will adhere to the car better in the long run.

Yes I agree Xpel got the stronger adhesive(I'm a authorize Xpel dealer), but when it comes down to it, an experience installer with any film will NEED know how to make any film stick more than a on a temporary basis

 

[joebruin77]

I had a whole-car Xpel PPF installed when I took delivery in Dec 2018 of my P3D and I have been extremely impressed with the film. My car sits outside 24/7 including several months each year in 100+ temps and the PPF has performed extremely well. I wash my car every week and have applied a PPF-safe ceramic spray sealant every 2-3 months. As long as you wash, maintain, and protect the film, it should indeed last many years.

Another reason I chose Xpel is that my local installer said that Xpel really stands behind their 10-year warranty. And the warranty is transferable to a new owner if I decide to sell the car before the 10 year warranty expires.

 

[zoomer0056]

What did you go with? Happy?