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Super weird issue with my Gen 3 WC

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Hey guys,

I'm going loco with my issue. I'm basically at an impasse.

I have a model 3 performance with a GEN 3 WC at home.

4 wks ago everything was working perfectly. However now i cant charge my car at home. It charges for about 30 SEC then WC goes solid blue and i get a notice that charging has stopped.

I have tried resetting, killing the power, rebooting both the car and the WC with no luck.

Here is why I'm at an impasse.

I can charge my car on public AC and DC chargers
I can charge my car at my parents with their GEN 3 WC.
My parents CAN charge with my GEN 3 WC without any issues.

But as soon as I connect my car the issue appears.

It seems to be just my car and my WC want don't match. Everything else works!

has this ever happened to anyone else? if so, how did you solve it?
 
Do your parents have an SR or is it LR? If it is an SR it pulls less AMPS, 32 vs 48 and therefore it might be related to heat. If the difference between the cars is the charging rate it might be overheating on your car. I would check the electrical connections to make sure they are all tight within the wall connector. If the difference between the cars is the charging rate it might be overheating on your car. Otherwise I would call Tesla and see if they can check the charger remotely and possibly review the car log to see what errors are occurring.
 
Do your parents have an SR or is it LR? If it is an SR it pulls less AMPS, 32 vs 48 and therefore it might be related to heat. If the difference between the cars is the charging rate it might be overheating on your car. I would check the electrical connections to make sure they are all tight within the wall connector. If the difference between the cars is the charging rate it might be overheating on your car. Otherwise I would call Tesla and see if they can check the charger remotely and possibly review the car log to see what errors are occurring.
They have a LR and i have a performance. I live in sweden so we have 3 phase 16 amp = 11 kw.

Will have to call them but was hoping there were a quicker fix :p
 
That's weird, blue indicates loss of grid power (in this case maybe panel breaker), but it may also be the WC resetting for done other reason if a multi WC setup.
Have you tried reducing the charge rate in the vehicle menu?

Power Outages
If there is a power outage while Wall Connector is charging a vehicle, charging will automatically resume within 1 to 3 minutes after power restoration. The Wall Connector will display a solid blue light on the faceplate to indicate that it is communicating with the vehicle and waiting to resume charging. Alternatively, pressing the button on the charging handle after power restoration will cause Wall Connector to resume charging immediately.

When multiple Wall Connectors are linked for power sharing, the center blue LED will illuminate during the 10-second startup window.
 
That's weird, blue indicates loss of grid power (in this case maybe panel breaker), but it may also be the WC resetting for done other reason if a multi WC setup.
Have you tried reducing the charge rate in the vehicle menu?
No i haven't, i will try it asap. But my car charges at my parents house with the same installation setup and their car works at my setup. But im going to reduce it to 12 amps and give it a try.

and their is no powerloss as i have been logged in to the WC and checked it shows 220v and no breakers are off or goes off.
 
No i haven't, i will try it asap. But my car charges at my parents house with the same installation setup and their car works at my setup. But im going to reduce it to 12 amps and give it a try.

and their is no powerloss as i have been logged in to the WC and checked it shows 220v and no breakers are off or goes off.
Yeah, a tripped breaker would be nice and obvious. I was just thinking your parent's car might have a lower charge rate. Although I'd expect a house wiring issue to show up as "charging reduced" in the car.
Do the lights on the WC go out or do anything else before the blue light comes on?
May be a SW issue between you car and the WC, though the 30 second timing is weird, maybe an out of range control signal...
 
Alright so i lowered the amp to 12A instead of 16A. Usually in stops within 30sec. It has gone passed it so maybe thats the issue BUT it still does not explain why my mom could charge her car at 16A at my house today for 3h without any faults??

What does it mean if i can now charge my car with no issues at 12A?

My breakers are 3 phase 16 AMP and my main breaker is at 25A.

I have already measured and I'm like at 12-14A TOTAL on 3 phases on the house.

I'm good for up to 25A for each phase so I'm not really overloading anything.
 
Yeah, a tripped breaker would be nice and obvious. I was just thinking your parent's car might have a lower charge rate. Although I'd expect a house wiring issue to show up as "charging reduced" in the car.
Do the lights on the WC go out or do anything else before the blue light comes on?
May be a SW issue between you car and the WC, though the 30 second timing is weird, maybe an out of range control signal...
No it goes straight to solid blue.

Yeah i thinks its just my car and the WC thats not collabing correctly.
 
No it goes straight to solid blue.

Yeah i thinks its just my car and the WC thats not collabing correctly.
Yeah, car/ WC comms issue. Like you said super weird that all your A-B tests work.
When you say it stops after 30 seconds, does the car show any charge rate before the fault, and if so, what current?
Thought... the geographic charge level for your house may be corrupt. Setting the charge down to 12A might reset it. If so, then high rate would work again.
 
Yeah, car/ WC comms issue. Like you said super weird that all your A-B tests work.
When you say it stops after 30 seconds, does the car show any charge rate before the fault, and if so, what current?
Thought... the geographic charge level for your house may be corrupt. Setting the charge down to 12A might reset it. If so, then high rate would work again.
Yeah it shows 226-230v which is correct.

I can tell you that it has kept on charging! No errors yet but it looks promising! I'll try resetting to 16a if this works to see if I get any errors!
But it still leave me with the big question!

Why the hell can I charge at 16a at my parets and they at my house but I can't charge my own car at my house on 16a!

Cuz if my parents are able to charge at 16a for couples of hours, you can't really say it's a faulty wiring or breaker issues, yet since I can do a full charge at my parents house and public chargers we can't blame the car!!

So why can I charge at 12a but not at 16a?

You know what, I'm going to increase to 13a then wait 10min then increase to 14a and keep increasing until it shuts off or maybe it doesn't :)
 
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Yeah it shows 226-230v which is correct.

I can tell you that it has kept on charging! No errors yet but it looks promising! I'll try resetting to 16a if this works to see if I get any errors!
But it still leave me with the big question!

Why the hell can I charge at 16a at my parets and they at my house but I can't charge my own car at my house on 16a!

Cuz if my parents are able to charge at 16a for couples of hours, you can't really say it's a faulty wiring or breaker issues, yet since I can do a full charge at my parents house and public chargers we can't blame the car!!

So why can I charge at 12a but not at 16a?

You know what, I'm going to increase to 13a then wait 10min then increase to 14a and keep increasing until it shuts off or maybe it doesn't :)
Coolness!

The geographic specific charge limit would not be active anywhere other than your house. And it is controlled by the car, so your parent's car would not be affected.
If 16 now works, that was the problem. Basically, the car was sending an invalid charge request to the WC, and the blue light was it complaining that it was talking to a car, but it wasn't requesting something valid.
 
Coolness!

The geographic specific charge limit would not be active anywhere other than your house. And it is controlled by the car, so your parent's car would not be affected.
If 16 now works, that was the problem. Basically, the car was sending an invalid charge request to the WC, and the blue light was it complaining that it was talking to a car, but it wasn't requesting something valid.
Cool!!!
So 13A worked for 20min. I'm now at 15A so imp going to let it charge to 100% then tomorrow afternoon I'm going to increase to 16A and see if stops working or not. Maybe 15A is the sweetspot and I can live with that even though I will still be curious on why 16A wont work but I will update the thread tomorrow.
 
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Cool!!!
So 13A worked for 20min. I'm now at 15A so imp going to let it charge to 100% then tomorrow afternoon I'm going to increase to 16A and see if stops working or not. Maybe 15A is the sweetspot and I can live with that even though I will still be curious on why 16A wont work but I will update the thread tomorrow.
Super !
(16A should fail in 30 seconds though, right? Not that I'm super curious or anything ;) )