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Suspension Problem on Model S

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I just heard from TESLA AND THEY SAID THEY CAN NOT COVER THIS REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY. I an stunned. I now believe that Tesla is doing a cover up. They just turned a Tesla Ambassador into a Tesla vigilante for truth. However I will not take the law into my own hands. LOL

I have two Model 3's reserved, may have to cancel my reservations.

I do hope you will follow up with a fresh complaint to NHTSA.
I'm just a concerned citizen but you have a lot more power as an actual owner in possession of the physical evidence.

Date Complaint Filed: 05/02/2016
Date of Incident: 03/01/2016
Component(s): SUSPENSION
NHTSA ID Number: 10862640
Consumer Location: Unknown

All Products Associated with this Complaint
Details
question-mark.png

0 Available Documents


  • Crash:No
  • Fire:No
  • Number of Injuries:0
  • Number of Deaths:0
Manufacturer: Tesla Motors, Inc.

Vehicle Identification No. (VIN): UNKNOWN...

SUMMARY:
YOU HAVE A COMPLAINT LISTED FOR A SNAPPED FRONT SUSPENSION ( REF # 10862066) THERE IS A DISCUSSION THREAD HERE Tesla Motors Club WHICH SHOWS A TOP BALL JOINT THAT HAS BEEN CORRODED SO BADLY THAT IT HAS POPPED OUT OF THE SOCKET. POSTERS ARE SAYING THAT SIMILAR CASES HAVE HAPPENED IN NORWAY AND OTHER PLACES THAT USE SALT ON THE ROADS. THE DESIGN OF THE MODEL S ALLOWS ROAD DIRT TO BE THROWN ON TO THE SUSPENSION PARTS. IN THE THREAD THERE ARE PHOTOGRAPHS OF TESLAS WITH HEAVY CORROSION. IT IS LIKELY THAT GALVANIC CORROSION IS OCCURRING. ALUMINIUM AND STEEL COMPONENTS ARE IN DIRECT CONTACT WHICH WILL CAUSE CORROSION IN WET AND SALTY CONDITIONS. IN NORTHERN USA,CANADA, NORWAY AND MANY OTHER COUNTRIES SALT IS USED ON THE ROADS. THIS FAULT WAS NOT PICKED UP UNTIL IT ACTUALLY FELL APART AND THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOUND THAT BALL JOINTS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR NEEDED REPLACING. THIS IS A DANGER TO OWNERS AND TO OTHER ROAD USERS. PLEASE INVESTIGATE.
 
I do agree that the reporter was negligent in using the autopilot in that fashion.
This is a motoring journalist who should have known better.
He actually describes it as "autonomous" in the video.
He should have known that it should only be used on divided roads.

Dr Who has said that he would be comfortable to drive across the Harbour Bridge on Autopilot.
He too has not got the message about using it only on undivided roads.
The reality is that many (perhaps even the majority) of drivers are placing too much faith in the autopilot and using it in situations in which there is very little margin for error.
Would you like to be driving in the opposite direction to this lady?
Lucille, I think you meant to say that the AutoSteer should be used in divided roads, if you live in Sydney you'd know that the Harbour Bridge road is divided
 
Lucille, I think you meant to say that the AutoSteer should be used in divided roads, if you live in Sydney you'd know that the Harbour Bridge road is divided

The Cahill Expressway is divided from the Bradfield Highway.
The Cahill has 2 lanes Southbound only.
The Bradfield has 6 lanes with no divider.
In the morning the lanes are set to 4 lanes South 2 Lanes North.
That is reversed for the afternoon peak.

The reporter was driving in the 4th lane adjacent to oncoming traffic.
Fatal head on accidents are a regular occurrence.

(and yes, I did mean to say divided)
 
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I'm not sure if any real use can come of this thread now, but I'll give it a try. Galvanic corrosion is a very serious problem. I've spent enough miles at sea trying to keep steel and aluminum separated (easier now with more carbon fiber) because when they get together, something will fail pretty quickly.

Does anyone know for a fact that there are areas of steel and aluminum contact with no electrolytic isolation?
 
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I'm not sure if any real use can come of this thread now, but I'll give it a try. Galvanic corrosion is a very serious problem. I've spent enough miles at sea trying to keep steel and aluminum separated (easier now with more carbon fiber) because when they get together, something will fail pretty quickly.

Does anyone know for a fact that there are areas of steel and aluminum contact with no electrolytic isolation?

I'm equally curious here.
 
Assuming the original poster is not leaving any information out of his story, and that his car is still in the warranty period, he should retain a lawyer. His description is of a defect which is covered under warranty; as well as repairing the car under warranty, Tesla should pay his legal bills and punitive damages for behaving in a ridiculous manner. It's also worth filing an NHTSA report, since this is a bizarre occurrance under normal driving conditions.

Driving on dirt roads with the suspension in high in Pennsylvania winters is a perfectly normal driving condition.
 
He stated in the OP that the car had 73,000 miles. So unless he had the extended warranty, it was out of the original warranty period.
I'm not sure about the laws in USA (which may vary state to state) .
In many countries consumers rights are protected under common law and can not be over-ridden by manufacturers warranties no matter what the wording.
Goods must be fit for the purpose and of merchantable quality.

Posters on the Norwegian forums have been discussing the issue of warranty period and they seem to be confident that they are well protected under the consumer rights laws of that country.
I sympathise with the OP who is now facing a hefty repair bill and diminished value (would you want to buy that car off him?)
Far more importantly.....how many other cars are in a similar condition and might fall apart at any moment?
 
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I'm equally curious here.
I'm not sure if any real use can come of this thread now, but I'll give it a try. Galvanic corrosion is a very serious problem. I've spent enough miles at sea trying to keep steel and aluminum separated (easier now with more carbon fiber) because when they get together, something will fail pretty quickly.

Does anyone know for a fact that there are areas of steel and aluminum contact with no electrolytic isolation?

Have a look at the Edmunds Tesla walkaround.
2012 Tesla Model S Signature Performance Suspension Walkaround
Close up photographs.
There are certainly no fibre washers.
If there is actually a film of some special material then it has never been mentioned anywhere (so far as I am aware) and it would require great care to ensure it is always maintained and reapplied after any bolts are re-torqued or replaced.

For all you owners out there you can perform a simple check yourselves.
Simply use a multimeter to measure between a steel bolt and the mating Aluminium component.
Say between the top ball joint and the Aluminium steering knuckle.
If it is insulated then you should get a reading of at least 10K Ohms.
I expect that you will see a reading of close to zero Ohms.

A
 
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I'm not sure if any real use can come of this thread now, but I'll give it a try. Galvanic corrosion is a very serious problem. I've spent enough miles at sea trying to keep steel and aluminum separated (easier now with more carbon fiber) because when they get together, something will fail pretty quickly.

Does anyone know for a fact that there are areas of steel and aluminum contact with no electrolytic isolation?

As one who has lived aboard a steel trawler for the past 15 years or so, I am curious as well. Coatings tend to require maintenance at some point.

The car itself lives less than 100 yards from the ocean. Guess what I'll check in the morning and during next week's SvC visit... as best we can, anyway.
 
As one who has lived aboard a steel trawler for the past 15 years or so, I am curious as well. Coatings tend to require maintenance at some point.

The car itself lives less than 100 yards from the ocean. Guess what I'll check in the morning and during next week's SvC visit... as best we can, anyway.
If anyone has any doubts that Galvanic Corrosion is a real issue then they should have a look at this thread which is right here on TM

Rusting of the rear lift gate attachment points
Discussion in 'Model S' started by eddiemoy, Mar 7, 2016.


#1eddiemoy, Mar 7, 2016
I just noticed today how rusted mine are. The attachment point to the rear lift gate are rusted so bad they are about to break off...

Anyone else have this problem, my P85+ is about 2.5 years old...
 
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So, question is are they perhaps using Dacromet coated bolts?

Galvanic Corrosion and Cross Contamination - Body Shop Business
"When bolting dissimilar metals together or even similar aluminum metals to an aluminum body, always use cathodic bolts – never anodic. In other words, you’ll use steel bolts. These bolts will most likely be coated with Dacromet (see figure 3), which is a special coating applied to steel bolts by different hardware manufacturers under license from Dacromet. The coatings should always be inspected to detect compromised protective coating upon removing a bolt. These coatings cannot be repaired and the fastener, which is coated and insulated and recommended by OEs to be replaced every time one is removed, must be replaced. When fitting parts with these bolts, use the original bolts for fit-up and, when you’re done, replace them with new bolts. Be aware. If the factory is going to this additional effort and expense, you should know it’s for a serious reason."
Any reference in Tesla service bulletins or advice to owners regarding precautions to be taken?
Any proud claims by Dacromet to be suppliers to Tesla?
Any advertising by Tesla to show what grhttp://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/galvanic-corrosion-and-cross-contamination/
 
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NEWS FLASH.
I may have got the Galvanic Corrosion part back- asswards.
The Aluminium is the less noble metal and therefore ought to become the sacrificial anode.
SOMETHING is causing those steel parts to corrode but I am not entirely sure of the mechanism.
That does not disprove my assertion that the Tesla suspensions are fragile and snapping off far too easily but I will have to withdraw my claim that Galvanic Corrosion is a major factor in the phenomenon.

I have many images of loosened bolts and snapped alloy suspension parts but so far I have not seen another failure like that shown by the original poster.
Don't celebrate too early.
It just means there is yet another problem for Tesla and NHTSA to investigate.
 
I have "admitted" that I am against green scams.
That is not the motivation behind my concern about the suspension problems.
I'm happy to start another thread about why I believe the Tesla is not green and why I believe that Tesla executives are trousering ridiculous amounts of money that could be better spent on developing genuine energy saving technologies.

I doubt that such a thread would remain up for long.
Sacrilege against Tesla is forbidden.

I didn't manufacture the drama.
Wheels falling off caused the drama.

Conspiracy?
Time for you to bring out the tinfoil hat argument?
I have read posts on forums that request owners "take it private" and do not
report problems to NHTSA. Isn't that a conspiracy?
There may be legitimate concerns about the Tesla suspension. You may want to limit your discussions to that. There is no green scam at Tesla. It is very clear what they are doing, it is stated in their mission statement, and it is supported by their actions. I would argue they are doing more to advance green objectives than any other company on the face of the Earth. To argue in opposition of this obvious truth torpedoes your credibility and marginalizes your contribution to the suspension discussion. Less crazy talk, more suspension discussion please.
 
There may be legitimate concerns about the Tesla suspension. You may want to limit your discussions to that. There is no green scam at Tesla. It is very clear what they are doing, it is stated in their mission statement, and it is supported by their actions. I would argue they are doing more to advance green objectives than any other company on the face of the Earth. To argue in opposition of this obvious truth torpedoes your credibility and marginalizes your contribution to the suspension discussion. Less crazy talk, more suspension discussion please.
I disagree with your view on the greenness of Tesla but I that is a separate issue.
I agree that we should keep to the subject matter.
You can easily find the images of many Teslas with snapped suspensions.
You can also find quite a number of Tesla Sliced Wheels (just Goggle it)
Anyone like to offer an explanation for this?
Any similar examples on other brands of cars?
I've asked this question on many forums and never got an answer.
 
Aluminum touching steel = massive corrosion. Huh. I've been driving cars with aluminum wheels bolted directly to uncoated steel hubs for 40 years. Guess I'm just really lucky?

So you are saying that my ball joint is normal wear and tear? Better get yours checked at 40,000 mile and then comment. I own a fleet of 140 vehicles and never seen this type of wear within 70,000 miles!

I am just lucky it happened on a rough road at a very low speed.
 
Would you please go crawl back into the hole from whence you came?

You aren't trying to engage in rational discussion, far from it. So I ask you again, could you please go crawl back into the hole you came from?

Jeff
I'm all for rational discussion.
I have admitted that I was incorrect about the cause of the corrosion which can be seen on many Teslas.
It is possible that some other mechanism (induced current or potential induced corrosion?) is the cause.
Whilst we are having this rational discussion can you please explain how wheels get sliced in half on the Tesla.
I haven't seen that happening on any other cars.
 
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