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Suspension problems. OEM dampers are failing.

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If you have great suspension knowledge you should be able to give a technical description of why the dampers feel the way they do - piston has broken free from the shaft, o-ring failure with fluid leak. The one thing you have going against you is that you claim it is all four that are a problem. It would be highly unlikely for all four to fail. It seems that if they are really changing, it could be the nature of the Tesla damper.
 
If you put your shocks on a shock dyno you will be easily able to see differences between individual shocks. Then I imagine that Tesla would be willing to replace that individual shock, or you could just buy one yourself.

It would be highly unusual for ALL the shocks to become defective at the same time, unless the entire car came in for a hard landing, and even then you would most likely be able to see oil leaking from the blown seals.

We are trying to figure out what might be going on in your case, but the forum is not coming up with any possibilities.
 
You need some real data, not just your "feeling".
Someone suggested a "shock dyno" to measure shock performance.
Or, you could get an earthquake/shake sensor app for your phone... something like this:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.exatools.vibrometer
Run over a few bumps.
Still, it's odd that all four seem to be wrong. Unlikely that all four would fail... it might be your "feeling" is off.
 
Its not about preference in the suspension's feel. The problem is that the suspension (dampers) are getting softer which is a manufacturing problem. Imagine if I told someone to get a whole new paint job if they weren't satisfied with the scratches when their car was delivered.

I hear you but I think you are going to drive yourself nuts with this. The fact that you can actually "feel" the dampers getting softer is quite impressive. How do they get softer? Do they have a break in period? If so, what is it? Are they leaking fluid? Who actually makes the Model 3 damper for Tesla? Can you call them and find out the specs and if they are used in any other cars on the market?

IMO, from performance perspective the Model 3 suspension is nothing to write home about, even in the Performance version I own. It strikes a pretty good balance between sport and comfort for the street. What would make it a lot better is adaptive dampers like you see on a lot of other performance cars. This way when you are in the mood and the roads a smooth you flip it to Sport or Track mode and you get the firm ride and body control you are looking for, then back to Tour mode for the crappy roads and cruising.

Since Tesla does not offer adaptive dampers as an option the next best thing is to turn to the aftermarket. The Miata is a fun car but many can't stand how much body roll it has even in Club trim. Immediately new owners swap out the sway bars, springs and struts and dial in the suspension just the way they like it.
 
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Did your friends drive your car and tell you that yours handles differently? Did you have your steering set to the same setting as their car? Is it vertical dampening or could there be aspects of lateral dampening?

If you are really a suspension guy, then you really should be able to diagnose the problem beyond "it feels bad". Did you measure your ride height and rule out spring fatigue? Pull off a spring and measure the spring rate? Is fluid leaking from your shocks? Dyno the shocks (Any local university with a formula SAE or SAE Baja team will probably dyno them for you for a small donation)? Are your sway bar and bushings in good shape and properly attached? Did you inspect your suspension bushings for damage? What about body welds for cracks?

Is it all in your head?
 
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I hear you but I think you are going to drive yourself nuts with this. The fact that you can actually "feel" the dampers getting softer is quite impressive. How do they get softer? Do they have a break in period? If so, what is it? Are they leaking fluid? Who actually makes the Model 3 damper for Tesla? Can you call them and find out the specs and if they are used in any other cars on the market?

IMO, from performance perspective the Model 3 suspension is nothing to write home about, even in the Performance version I own. It strikes a pretty good balance between sport and comfort for the street. What would make it a lot better is adaptive dampers like you see on a lot of other performance cars. This way when you are in the mood and the roads a smooth you flip it to Sport or Track mode and you get the firm ride and body control you are looking for, then back to Tour mode for the crappy roads and cruising.

Since Tesla does not offer adaptive dampers as an option the next best thing is to turn to the aftermarket. The Miata is a fun car but many can't stand how much body roll it has even in Club trim. Immediately new owners swap out the sway bars, springs and struts and dial in the suspension just the way they like it.
I agree. You are not going to be able to make Tesla tune the suspension to your liking. Since you have such a sensitive feel, I think you'll have to tune it yourself.
 
SC = Supercharger

SvC = Service Center

No idea what to call mobile techs other than, um, mobile techs.

Bummer about the failed components. Document, document, document, and good luck. It can take awhile to get to a satisfactory resolution. *mutters something about 10 months for a headliner kit (all 10 pieces* *mutters something else about being on a 3rd set of half shafts, a 2nd jack shaft, a 3rd MCU, and soon to be a 4th steering column - all before 50K miles*
 
When I got my car it was black. When I look at it now I can tell it is not as black as my friends new car. I've taken it to SvC and they said all black cars have a different level of black and that my black is just fine. As I am an expert at recognizing black paint, I know without a doubt that my black car is no longer black. I thought about having it painted real black but I'm afraid of I want to go back to the original black i may not be able too. I just don't know what to do, can anyone help?
 
If you have great suspension knowledge you should be able to give a technical description of why the dampers feel the way they do - piston has broken free from the shaft, o-ring failure with fluid leak. The one thing you have going against you is that you claim it is all four that are a problem. It would be highly unlikely for all four to fail. It seems that if they are really changing, it could be the nature of the Tesla damper.

Sorry but I don't have the tools to take apart the dampers. If you live near me, we can go for a ride and compare.
 
Did your friends drive your car and tell you that yours handles differently? Did you have your steering set to the same setting as their car? Is it vertical dampening or could there be aspects of lateral dampening?

If you are really a suspension guy, then you really should be able to diagnose the problem beyond "it feels bad". Did you measure your ride height and rule out spring fatigue? Pull off a spring and measure the spring rate? Is fluid leaking from your shocks? Dyno the shocks (Any local university with a formula SAE or SAE Baja team will probably dyno them for you for a small donation)? Are your sway bar and bushings in good shape and properly attached? Did you inspect your suspension bushings for damage? What about body welds for cracks?

Is it all in your head?

The springs has nothing to do with my problem. The dampers are either failing or getting weaker by design. No fluids leaks but that doesn't mean the dampers are good. I dont have a shock dyno, but I'd gladly let you dyno them. All the other diagnostic ideas you mentioned is irrelevant and no, it is not in my head.

If you have any way to measure the dampers (accelerometer etc) or anything else to put things on paper, please send those equipment my way.
 
You need some real data, not just your "feeling".
Someone suggested a "shock dyno" to measure shock performance.
Or, you could get an earthquake/shake sensor app for your phone... something like this:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.exatools.vibrometer
Run over a few bumps.
Still, it's odd that all four seem to be wrong. Unlikely that all four would fail... it might be your "feeling" is off.


Thanks, I will try that. I just need another car to compare the data to.
 
The service center telling you all cars are different is just noise trying to get you to go away.

You are very high on self certification on being a suspension expert, but very light on any evidence of such claim.

We can go for a ride, you can feel it for yourself. The only way I can explain it to a lay person is that there is more motion in the ocean. Its easily visible when you compare the horizon and the vehicle from the mirrors.
 
When I got my car it was black. When I look at it now I can tell it is not as black as my friends new car. I've taken it to SvC and they said all black cars have a different level of black and that my black is just fine. As I am an expert at recognizing black paint, I know without a doubt that my black car is no longer black. I thought about having it painted real black but I'm afraid of I want to go back to the original black i may not be able too. I just don't know what to do, can anyone help?

You just need to wash your car.
 
Someone with a "high knowledge of suspensions" will be more sensitive to minor differences, just as some with a "high knowledge of audio systems" will be a lot more nit picky about their speakers and sub woofers and amps and such things. I turn on the radio in my 3, it plays music or talk radio, good enough for me.

What did OP do with his car for 6200 miles? Road courses and 60 mph over speed bumps, or normal everyday driving?