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Suspension problems. OEM dampers are failing.

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The dampers are either failing or getting weaker by design.

Well if all 4 are failing(unlikely but possible...and evenly failing? more unlikely), but the SC says they aren't, then you will have to put money out to prove that the dampers don't meet spec.

If they are getting weaker by design, then that's it, nothing to do except make adjustments/replacements yourself because of personal preference.
 
I feel for you @MrChoi. You have to realize your "softer" feeling is subjective and from the SvC perspective, likely within spec. You are in a tough position for sure. If you go coilovers or potentially even just springs, you can get your desired ride. However, I wouldn't think the SvC will be much help here without a leaking shock. At the very least, if you do get either CO or springs...you can return to stock to sell or if the CO need replacement. Likely the new owner won't know the difference and if you are getting CO maintenance, it won't be forever. Sucks, but when you think about it that way, it isn't so bad. I'm trying to decide upon $2500 COs or just $400 springs...I want the COs but my waller doesn't.

For the record, I scoured etc.tesla.com which lists all the part numbers, and while the springs have a part number for a performance model, the dampers do not, so my "assumption" is use the AWD part number. They only list dampers for RWD and AWD. There are two part numbers for some of them and I believe these would be for the hard to soft change they made for the early cars.
 
If you put your shocks on a shock dyno you will be easily able to see differences between individual shocks. Then I imagine that Tesla would be willing to replace that individual shock, or you could just buy one yourself.

It would be highly unusual for ALL the shocks to become defective at the same time, unless the entire car came in for a hard landing, and even then you would most likely be able to see oil leaking from the blown seals.

We are trying to figure out what might be going on in your case, but the forum is not coming up with any possibilities.

Yes and it's actually beyond unlikely that all four shocks are failing without evidence of blown seals or severe impact. It's just about statistically impossible. This entire thread in a sense is a reaction to someone who has provided no evidence of their claim, and is not willing to put their money where their mouth is and actually have the shocks Dyno tested.
 
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We can go for a ride, you can feel it for yourself. The only way I can explain it to a lay person is that there is more motion in the ocean. Its easily visible when you compare the horizon and the vehicle from the mirrors.

What? The only way you can explain it to a lay person is that there is more Motion in the ocean? You've got to be kidding!!
 
When I got my car it was black. When I look at it now I can tell it is not as black as my friends new car. I've taken it to SvC and they said all black cars have a different level of black and that my black is just fine. As I am an expert at recognizing black paint, I know without a doubt that my black car is no longer black. I thought about having it painted real black but I'm afraid of I want to go back to the original black i may not be able too. I just don't know what to do, can anyone help?

You wouldn't be upset if your black car was already visibly fading? You are more forgiving than me.
 
What? The only way you can explain it to a lay person is that there is more Motion in the ocean? You've got to be kidding!!

No dfwatt, I am not kidding. I'll try too explain it a little more. The car is bouncy over large low frequency bumps. It feels like a used Toyota Camry when it use to feel more like a new Honda Accord. I bring those two cars up because Honda's usually have a firm suspension than a Toyota and of course, an older suspension is softer than a newer suspension. Following me so far? Also do not confuse bouncy with bumpy. I can go into more detail but I might loose you when I start using the terms, dampening, compression, rebound, and stored energy. dfwatt, anything else?
 
I feel for you @MrChoi. You have to realize your "softer" feeling is subjective and from the SvC perspective, likely within spec. You are in a tough position for sure. If you go coilovers or potentially even just springs, you can get your desired ride. However, I wouldn't think the SvC will be much help here without a leaking shock. At the very least, if you do get either CO or springs...you can return to stock to sell or if the CO need replacement. Likely the new owner won't know the difference and if you are getting CO maintenance, it won't be forever. Sucks, but when you think about it that way, it isn't so bad. I'm trying to decide upon $2500 COs or just $400 springs...I want the COs but my waller doesn't.

For the record, I scoured etc.tesla.com which lists all the part numbers, and while the springs have a part number for a performance model, the dampers do not, so my "assumption" is use the AWD part number. They only list dampers for RWD and AWD. There are two part numbers for some of them and I believe these would be for the hard to soft change they made for the early cars.

Thanks jmaddr. With a weak damper, I wouldn't get lowering springs as it will accelerate the problem and worsen your handling. Coilovers will be better unless you're looking for a Cadillac soft ride. The way I see it is if you spend $400 on springs, you're gonna throw away $400 later and replace it with some quality parts.

Hey if you want, I have some performance dampers with low miles I'm getting ready to sell for at a reasonable price.
 
No dfwatt, I am not kidding. I'll try too explain it a little more. The car is bouncy over large low frequency bumps. It feels like a used Toyota Camry when it use to feel more like a new Honda Accord. I bring those two cars up because Honda's usually have a firm suspension than a Toyota and of course, an older suspension is softer than a newer suspension. Following me so far? Also do not confuse bouncy with bumpy. I can go into more detail but I might loose you when I start using the terms, dampening, compression, rebound, and stored energy. dfwatt, anything else?

Oh brother. I was modifying cars and putting in coilover kits probably before you got your first car, so no need to dumb it down. You need to get to some place that has a shock Dyno where they can confirm that the shocks are behaving as you say. Talk is cheap, people can make all kinds of claims, evidence is not cheap and you need evidence for your claims. Especially if you have any desire to get Tesla to fix this putative problem.
 
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Tesla constantly changes their parts. Comparing suspension doesn't mean anything.

You thinking the suspension is a bit softer does not clearly describe a failed suspension component. More likely you're just feeling it this way because, you know, feelings. Most people who put on aftermarket suspensions end up not only worsening ride but also performance. At the same time, they feel their cars handle ten times better. Meanwhile, the Tesla techs, who work on and drive these cars all the time, think it's fine. Hrmmm...

So... if you want more damping, maybe there's an aftermarket solution that will make you feel happy.

Also everything you've posted in this thread makes me think you're ignorant about suspension. If you knew anything, you'd be telling us what is wrong with the suspension. You'd say that clearly the nitrogen has leaked out of the rears or the seal has blown. Also worn suspension is not softer. It damps less and less until the seals blow, and then you get much less damping. That's a rougher, unsettled ride, not a softer one.

As for damping vs dampening, it's probably called dampening by most people who aren't suspension engineers.

You're not a suspension engineer, are you?

More likely another type of engineer.
 
Tesla constantly changes their parts. Comparing suspension doesn't mean anything.

You thinking the suspension is a bit softer does not clearly describe a failed suspension component. More likely you're just feeling it this way because, you know, feelings. Most people who put on aftermarket suspensions end up not only worsening ride but also performance. At the same time, they feel their cars handle ten times better. Meanwhile, the Tesla techs, who work on and drive these cars all the time, think it's fine. Hrmmm...

So... if you want more damping, maybe there's an aftermarket solution that will make you feel happy.

Also everything you've posted in this thread makes me think you're ignorant about suspension. If you knew anything, you'd be telling us what is wrong with the suspension. You'd say that clearly the nitrogen has leaked out of the rears or the seal has blown. Also worn suspension is not softer. It damps less and less until the seals blow, and then you get much less damping. That's a rougher, unsettled ride, not a softer one.

As for damping vs dampening, it's probably called dampening by most people who aren't suspension engineers.

You're not a suspension engineer, are you?

More likely another type of engineer.

No I'm not an engineer, a spelling bee champion, or an expert on suspension. I never said I was an expert on suspension even though many of you stated that.

The problem with my suspension is that the dampers are getting weaker and does a poor job controlling the rebound of the springs. I noticed the difference around 6000 miles and when driving a friend's model 3, the difference is obviously noticeable. Don't believe me? That's fine, but so far no one has taken my offer to go for a test ride in my car. I'm sure I'm not the only Model 3 performance owner in the bay area.

Here are some videos: Tesla Model 3 Performance with PUP. - YouTube
 
jsimon7777, castro valley huh? I'm in San Jose. You're right, Tesla do change parts but it's not like they change parts every month. jsimon7777, lets try this. Compare the part numbers of our suspension, and if they're the same, I'll drive up to Castro Valley so you can feel my suspension. And you know what, maybe what I'm feeling is normal but so far, the other model 3 (SR+) I've ridden in has a firmer suspension.

I have another appointment with a different service center. If they tell me it's normal again, I'll have to gather some data via the recommended vibration apps to show you and Tesla. I just need another model 3 performance to get a valid data.
 
jsimon7777, castro valley huh? I'm in San Jose. You're right, Tesla do change parts but it's not like they change parts every month. jsimon7777, lets try this. Compare the part numbers of our suspension, and if they're the same, I'll drive up to Castro Valley so you can feel my suspension. And you know what, maybe what I'm feeling is normal but so far, the other model 3 (SR+) I've ridden in has a firmer suspension.

I have another appointment with a different service center. If they tell me it's normal again, I'll have to gather some data via the recommended vibration apps to show you and Tesla. I just need another model 3 performance to get a valid data.

If I were you I’d take some well lit, properly focused pictures of the wheel well, including the part labels on the dampers and the spring...front and rear...and post them here. Would serve the purpose of allowing people to compare part numbers with you, and also let people evaluate whether they see anything wrong.

Probably easiest to just take a wheel off and take a picture, but not necessary if you have a really bright light; should be able to slip a camera behind the wheel along with the light.