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Suspension / Sway Bars
- Thread starter camkelly
- Start date
HP Autosport
Former Vendor
The best bang for your money for your "floaty" issue will be a good set of coilvoers. MPP, KW and UP all make really good stuff. Ohlins R&T has been delayed until 2021 because of Covid-19. MCS is also available but will likely kill your wallet.
Sway bars will add springs rates in a turn and your dampers will have to work harder. You will get reduction in body roll which may make the car feel tighter. Typically, larger bars mean softer springs.
I went back and forth between Eibach and UP swaybars. At first I was leaning on the Eibachs because good previous experience with their products. Also I was worried about some noise issues reported for the UP swaybars due to bushing material/supplier and possible rubbing of front bar at full lock. As I understand it, these issues have all been addressed and provided the bars are installed correctly there should be no noise. With the noise no longer being an issue, I like the built-in flanges on the UP kit as well as the 3 way adjustability on the RSB vs 2 way. Now the only disadvantage was the $100 price gap but as many Eibach owners recommend to buy lateral locks for about $50, that gap is further reduced. I think by now you can guess that I ordered the UP kit since the extra $50, in my view, has value for the additional rear adjustment as well as not need to crank on these locks against the powder coating potentially creating a rust point.
Just to make it harder: it's pretty easy to find the Eibach kit for more like $350 (I paid $336 via Discount Tire on eBay). But I see UP lowered the price by $70 as well (I paid $655 after tax and shipping).
To be honest I'm not happy with either product. Eibach because I think the rear bar shouldn't move so much and UP because I didn't pay $655 to beta test your product.
To be honest I'm not happy with either product. Eibach because I think the rear bar shouldn't move so much and UP because I didn't pay $655 to beta test your product.
I have the street version.
I had *all* of the problems with the UP sway bars
Front bar rubbing on the control arm, front bar clunking because of the bushings.
Another thing worth mentioning is my UP bars arrived with chips in the powder coat (presumably from shipping, their packaging was a joke), so they're eventually gonna rust anyway.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; i.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer.
And don't let me get you down, I'm sure the UP bars are fine at this point. I'm just disgruntled by the whole experience.
I had *all* of the problems with the UP sway bars
Front bar rubbing on the control arm, front bar clunking because of the bushings.Another thing worth mentioning is my UP bars arrived with chips in the powder coat (presumably from shipping, their packaging was a joke), so they're eventually gonna rust anyway.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; i.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer.
And don't let me get you down, I'm sure the UP bars are fine at this point. I'm just disgruntled by the whole experience.
I appreciate the honest feedback! Will keep my fingers crossed.I have the street version.
I had *all* of the problems with the UP sway bars
Another thing worth mentioning is my UP bars arrived with chips in the powder coat (presumably from shipping, their packaging was a joke), so they're eventually gonna rust anyway.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; i.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer.
And don't let me get you down, I'm sure the UP bars are fine at this point. I'm just disgruntled by the whole experience.
HP Autosport
Former Vendor
Wanted to share my overall experience:
Back in June, decided to pull the trigger on the Eibach spring and sway bar kit, because you save $130 bux. Called a few stores and they were out of stock. So i called them directly, and placed a back order with them since they don't charge shipping. I saw that the springs were available, but the sway bars were not. I waited a couple weeks, and called to see if they can split up the order, and they did, while keeping the same lower price for the whole kit. Installed the springs last month when i got them. Finally this past weekend, the sway bars came in!! (i received then next day since i live in so cal) and i installed them. Set them at middle setting for the front, and stiff in the rear. The car is corners shockingly flat!! I have not had a chance to push it too hard, but its definitely noticeable. All my previous cars i've bought sway bars as well and it never disappoints! No clunking, no issues. I watched a youtube vid on installation, and i did not need to remove the plastic undershield just behind the bumper (of course i removed the furry cover under the subframe). I removed a couple of the plastic clips holding it to the fender liner, and i was able to access the fwd nuts pretty easily.
I seriously do not think that not having the flange is problem at all. The bushing sits so close to the bends of the bar that its not going anywhere. And besides, they're designed to float a bit, Im sure that's why the end links are outfitted with ball joints.
Back in June, decided to pull the trigger on the Eibach spring and sway bar kit, because you save $130 bux. Called a few stores and they were out of stock. So i called them directly, and placed a back order with them since they don't charge shipping. I saw that the springs were available, but the sway bars were not. I waited a couple weeks, and called to see if they can split up the order, and they did, while keeping the same lower price for the whole kit. Installed the springs last month when i got them. Finally this past weekend, the sway bars came in!! (i received then next day since i live in so cal) and i installed them. Set them at middle setting for the front, and stiff in the rear. The car is corners shockingly flat!! I have not had a chance to push it too hard, but its definitely noticeable. All my previous cars i've bought sway bars as well and it never disappoints! No clunking, no issues. I watched a youtube vid on installation, and i did not need to remove the plastic undershield just behind the bumper (of course i removed the furry cover under the subframe). I removed a couple of the plastic clips holding it to the fender liner, and i was able to access the fwd nuts pretty easily.
I seriously do not think that not having the flange is problem at all. The bushing sits so close to the bends of the bar that its not going anywhere. And besides, they're designed to float a bit, Im sure that's why the end links are outfitted with ball joints.
Just a front bar makes a huge difference in cornering flatness. would be really interesting to compare to just a bigger rear bar...if anyone travels through Eureka...Mall has an empty Sears parking lot at the Supercharger
JKB8
Jkb8
How did it go with your UP Sway Bars? Any issues? Also, where did you get them installed?
JKB8
Jkb8
So, UP sent directly to me in Czechia new bushings and I don't have noise problem any more!
They also very generously proposed me a discount for the next purchase. I have to say customer service improvement is enormous - that's great. Sad that Pikes Peak doesn't go that smooth. I'm inclined to look into more UP parts. Caster/Camber adjustable FUCA looks interesting, waiting for the new aero CFD, 25mm rear sway bar.
They also very generously proposed me a discount for the next purchase. I have to say customer service improvement is enormous - that's great. Sad that Pikes Peak doesn't go that smooth. I'm inclined to look into more UP parts. Caster/Camber adjustable FUCA looks interesting, waiting for the new aero CFD, 25mm rear sway bar.
Got the UP swaybars installed today. Fairly straight forward but I wouldn't DIY without a lift.
Couple notes. Some say to replace the rsb bushing bracket bolts with the M10 1.5x25 so I bought a set. In my case it seemed not necessary as the oe bolts seemed long enough. However since a had new ones anyways, I used the new ones. There are some benefits but length wasn't one of them. The oe bolts have an 11 mm hex head and the new M10 bolts have a 15mm head so there is a bit more clamping area which is helpful for distributing the force.
I did not find official torque ratings for the bushing clamp bolts but found somewhere that mentioned 26ftlbs. Hopefully that's correct and if someone believes that to be incorrect please chime in.
I haven't had a chance to whip around since I was carrying the oe sway bars in my trunk on the drive home. But no increase in ride harshness and zero noise.
Front bushing could use a helping set of hands to install onto the bar. Needs some persuasion.
The flanges in the bars line up exactly right to the mounting location so there is no room for creep. I see this as being a good feature.
Couple notes. Some say to replace the rsb bushing bracket bolts with the M10 1.5x25 so I bought a set. In my case it seemed not necessary as the oe bolts seemed long enough. However since a had new ones anyways, I used the new ones. There are some benefits but length wasn't one of them. The oe bolts have an 11 mm hex head and the new M10 bolts have a 15mm head so there is a bit more clamping area which is helpful for distributing the force.
I did not find official torque ratings for the bushing clamp bolts but found somewhere that mentioned 26ftlbs. Hopefully that's correct and if someone believes that to be incorrect please chime in.
I haven't had a chance to whip around since I was carrying the oe sway bars in my trunk on the drive home. But no increase in ride harshness and zero noise.
Front bushing could use a helping set of hands to install onto the bar. Needs some persuasion.
The flanges in the bars line up exactly right to the mounting location so there is no room for creep. I see this as being a good feature.
Bolt replacement is needed for the Eibach bars, not UP. Eibach uses aluminum brackets, so they're thicker.
Torque specs are here: Sway Bars, End Links, and Rear Control Arms Installation & Impression
Torque specs are here: Sway Bars, End Links, and Rear Control Arms Installation & Impression
Makes sense in the bolts. Thanks for clarifying. Also thanks for the torque spec link. I did front and rear bushing bolts/nuts at 26 lbs so my front is bang on and the back bolts are about 3lbs
over but I'll leave that alone hoping it won't cause issues.
JKB8
Jkb8
Glad you got them installed without incident. Happy to see the report that there was zero noise as well. I noticed UP has installation instructions here: model 3 sway bar installation guide - Unplugged Performance
In the guide there are notes on torque specs for both the front and rear sways as well as torque specs for the wheels.
Hoping to install mine in the next few weeks.
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