Sustained performance degraded?

[eyedrop]

I own a 2014 P85D and do almost exclusively hard highway driving in rural areas and closed circuits/tracks.

I've noticed my car power limits sooner than it used to. A basic "sports car" run from 80-120mph at 70F used to be a cake walk 2 years ago.

Now it quickly shuts the fun down after just ~ 5 seconds of being into the throttle. A run from 80-120 in 70F will send it limping at 200-300kW as a modest 4 banger hot hatch approaches in the rear view mirror!

In another example, I can be held at 155mph full throttle for around 20 seconds, then it literally starts dropping to 145, then 140, 135 (pulling 100kW maximum). It will just cruise there at 135 if you stay in it. Ughh.

It IS still a rocket from stoplight to stoplight...

Is it just me, or do these Tesla's get slower with age like a gas car would? They seem high strung from the factory.

I know cars like the Model 3, Taycan have better highway power. But have Tesla improved Model S Raven high speed sustained performance? And has anyone else here experienced performance degrading with your EV?

Thank you.

 

[Canuck9000]

Its definitely an issue! And will be more common when people get out and run their cars.

It started around the time the “raven” software update was released.....to increase their KW and launch (cheetah) to compete with the Porsche taycan.... somehow it affected Performance preraven cars.

i also have an issue with sustained KW in ludi++. Power Drops off a cliff past 60mph. I know the ravens were supposed to have repeat launches without kW drop but its caused the reverse effect with non raven performance cars.

i reported it to Tesla 3 weeks ago and they are running my data (?). You should report it too so they know its a common issue. Ive sent videos as well. My peak KW is also affected in Ludi++ launch mode.

 

[Canuck9000]

Dont let them tell you its because of degradation or your car is older. Its a known problem.

 

[sorka]

Your performance has been software limited to preserve battery life. Welcome to Tesla's new policy.

But aside from that make sure you're not in range mode. Range mode is far less aggressive at cooling the battery when you've been driving hard in order to maximize range.

So glad I'm still on V8.

 

[AmpedRealtor]

Tesla will tell you some BS to make you go away. Specifically, they will say that your battery degrades over time and so will your performance and DC charging speed. What they don't tell you is that this "degradation" is entirely artificial and imposed by their software "updates".

Tesla basically allows you to juice the car for maximum performance when new, for great PR, and then dials you back as the car ages. Tesla knows the vehicle cannot sustain the range and performance when new, and that operating the vehicle as Tesla encourages (fast and hard) will force Tesla to more aggressively dial things back over time to prevent the battery from failing under warranty.

#batterygate

 

[ThomasD]

How much has it increased your quarter mile times

 

[eyedrop]

And here is a recent SC session. Cabin AC didn't work at all, even 15 minutes after unplugging. The car used to have no issues supercharging on a hot day...

Tesla has serviced this AC 3 times in it's CPO days. The compressor was replaced about a year ago...

 

[AmpedRealtor]

View attachment 547904 View attachment 547905

And here is a recent SC session. Cabin AC didn't work at all, even 15 minutes after unplugging. The car used to have no issues supercharging on a hot day...

Tesla has serviced this AC 3 times in it's CPO days. The compressor was replaced about a year ago...

Sounds to me like your front louvers aren't opening properly.

 

[eyedrop]

Sounds to me like your front louvers aren't opening properly.

I can see both left and right are opening during Supercharging. Supposedly there is a middle louver but I think the frunk needs to come out to see...

 

[sorka]

I can see both left and right are opening during Supercharging. Supposedly there is a middle louver but I think the frunk needs to come out to see...

I've had my frunk out many times. Have never seen a motorized center louver.

 

[eyedrop]

I took out the frunk and verified there is no visible center louver, and verified all connections are plugged in... I did a little research and someone on this forum had a similar issue:

"They did a thermal test which the Center and RH Active Louver failed and needed to be replaced.

Parts replaced:
ASY, ACTIVE LOUVRE RH (1007269-00-F) - $239
ASY, ACTIVE LOUVRE CTR (1007256-00-K) - $385

Total cost $1,136 - covered by ESA."


So Im looking at blind buying louvers until its happy (if thats actually the problem. Could be another module or simple wiring issue.) And on top of that, my compressor for the air suspension has been running and purging like crazy. I looked for a leak with a spray bottle but could find none. Plus the car needs tires. So I think I'm just gonna sell the car/trade and get into a boring budget yet reliable EV that doesn't need 14,000 things replaced in the first 100k miles. I badly crave a refined design instead of the subscription based rolling tin can from the future that is Tesla.

 

[ucmndd]

What does your radiator look like?
Not sure about the mileage on your car but I believe @David99 recently posted a thread that showed the fins on his radiator thoroughly mangled and bent shut after a couple hundred thousand miles of driving.

I’ve been seeing the same “AC reduced” message lately in my S75 that has 110,000 miles of freeway driving and it got me thinking that might be a contributing factor. Haven’t gotten down there to take a close look yet.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Like ucmndd mentioned, I recall another member who took off their front bumper cover, and saw that their side radiators were something like 65% blocked by dirt and debris that built up over the years. If you spend most of your time driving in rural areas, you might be experiencing the same thing.

It definitely sounds like a cooling issue.

 

[eyedrop]

I simply forced the louvers open on both sides until I heard a horrible snap. I have no respect for my car anymore and don’t care to spend time or money doing it right. I’ll be trading it in anyhow...

Will drive the crap out of it tomorrow as well as supercharge and will let y’all know how it goes...

 

[eyedrop]

Here’s 3 minutes into my morning commute. All it took was a couple full throttle runs and this thing chokes.

And remember, this is with the louvers forced open, at 75F.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Never seen "Factory Mode" - what is that?

You've opened the louvres, but have you checked to see if there's any debris buildup behind them?

 

[eyedrop]

Never seen "Factory Mode" - what is that?

You've opened the louvres, but have you checked to see if there's any debris buildup behind them?

Had to hire remote Russian hackers to get me into factory mode, which helps me diagnose my car myself. Tesla makes it extremely difficult to own these cars out of warranty so drastic measures must be taken. All just to troubleshoot a stupid louver...

 

[eyedrop]

And for the record, the rads/condesor coils are totally clean and not bent up

 

[Majerus]

It was 106 in your one post where AC was reduced, so outside tempmight be a part of the problem. The other screenshot with 73 miles and good temps outside, and the huge reduction in power seems way wrong.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Yeah, but he wasn't running the nurburgring, he was just driving agressively for a couple minutes. I'd be pretty pissed too if I couldn't do a few drags without going into limp home mode on a hot day.

I've definitely had mine at 500+ average kWh for fun drives in Houston summers without overheating...I wish I had more insight for you, OP. Perhaps a sensor issue? Have you ever had your battery coolant flushed?