Swapping out wheels/tires for a winter set - do you lubricate the threads?

[A-Wimoweh]

When you do a wheel swap, do you lubricate the threads with oil or anti seize? If you do, do you still use the full 129 ft-lbs of torque?

Any tips for making the wheel swap go little smoother for the DIY'er at home? I purchased the 19" lugano wheels from tirerack. I know I need to put the suspension in jack mode. I've done this many times in the past with Audi's, because I tracked those cars and had a dedicated wheel set for track use. Is it going to be hard to break the lug nuts loose on the car? I don't have a 21mm impact socket.

 

[mrElbe]

I recommend against using an impact socket. Use a 6 point socket with a breaker bar to loosen them. When jacked up above ground then I use a cordless driver to remove the nuts. When mounting, start the nuts by hand to prevent cross threading. Then I use the cordless driver again to tighten them. Once back on the ground use a torque wrench to tighten to spec.
Impact tools tend to deform the nuts. i use no lubricant.

 

[snellenr]

Air suspension to Max Height also helps, if you have air shocks...

 

[DrSmile]

I use an impact to get the lugs off, but a good breaker bar works just as well. You should use a socket that's specifically made for lugnuts (has plastic on the outside and inside to not to mar the lug nuts or wheels). The OEM torque is pretty high, an impact makes it easier. I do use antiseize on the threads because the northeast Winters here will corrode anything and make getting the wheel off very hard. I also apply a little to the mating surface where the wheel touches the hub of the rotor. I torque the lugs with a breaker bar to my usual "hella tight" setting which has served me well for many decades. It's higher than 80 ft lbs for sure but I don't have an actual number. If you're concerned that this isn't high enough feel free to torque to spec.

 

[Siggy101]

Nonononononono!
If you lubricate the threads and then use a torque wrench, you will actually over tighten the lugnuts. This would be bad.
The rated torque is for a 'dry' mating.

It's fine and even wise to put some antiseize, copperslip, jollop of choice on the mating face between the back of the wheel and the face of the hub/disc.

Never use an impact wrench. I do mine by hand twice a year. No biggie. Use a breaker bar to loosen all nuts 1 turn or so (with the car on the ground), put suspension to high setting, enable jack mode, lift her up. With the weight off the car, you put the socket on the nuts and undo by hand (use a normal ratchet handle if needed).
Swap the wheel (adding antiseize to the faces if you wish)
Put all nuts on by hand, finger tight, using no tools.
Drop the car gently.
Now take your torque wrench, set to 129lbft, and tighten all nuts in an opposite pattern. (12 o'clock, 5 o'clock, 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 7 o'clock).
One last click on each but don't over tighten.
Next corner x4.
Disable jack mode and return suspension to normal height (I do this while test driving to avoid that dreadful side force when you drop the car off the jack for the final time).
Do a tpms reset and be sure to switch settings to 19 or 21" as needed.
Photos.
Beer.

Also, check those torques in about 50 to 100km.

 

[Evbwcaer]

Nonononononono!
If you lubricate the threads and then use a torque wrench, you will actually over tighten the lugnuts. This would be bad.
The rated torque is for a 'dry' mating.

It's fine and even wise to put some antiseize, copperslip, jollop of choice on the mating face between the back of the wheel and the face of the hub/disc.

Never use an impact wrench. I do mine by hand twice a year. No biggie. Use a breaker bar to loosen all nuts 1 turn or so (with the car on the ground), put suspension to high setting, enable jack mode, lift her up. With the weight off the car, you put the socket on the nuts and undo by hand (use a normal ratchet handle if needed).
Swap the wheel (adding antiseize to the faces if you wish)
Put all nuts on by hand, finger tight, using no tools.
Drop the car gently.
Now take your torque wrench, set to 129lbft, and tighten all nuts in an opposite pattern. (12 o'clock, 5 o'clock, 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 7 o'clock).
One last click on each but don't over tighten.
Next corner x4.
Disable jack mode and return suspension to normal height (I do this while test driving to avoid that dreadful side force when you drop the car off the jack for the final time).
Do a tpms reset and be sure to switch settings to 19 or 21" as needed.
Photos.
Beer.

Also, check those torques in about 50 to 100km.

You really only finger tighten the nuts before setting the car down? The nuts are recessed in the wheel, you are probably setting the car down without the rim even flushed up against the hub.

I don't full torque until on the ground either, but I make them snug with a ratchet using a star pattern before I set the car down.

 

[Siggy101]

What I do is the reverse of my description above.
I put the socket over the nut and use that to finger tighten. It's plenty tight enough to hold the wheel flush against the disc/hub and ensure that the hub ring is located securely. Remember that the bolts do not take much/any of the weight of the car. That job is done by the hub ring. The nuts and bolts just hold the wheel in tight to keep it located on the ring.

 

[Evbwcaer]

What I do is the reverse of my description above.
I put the socket over the nut and use that to finger tighten. It's plenty tight enough to hold the wheel flush against the disc/hub and ensure that the hub ring is located securely. Remember that the bolts do not take much/any of the weight of the car. That job is done by the hub ring. The nuts and bolts just hold the wheel in tight to keep it located on the ring.

I see. That makes sense, putting the socket over the nut to give you something to hold on to.

 

[Siggy101]

Also... here's a little video I made to share a tip I devised to get those pesky lugnut covers off...
Enjoy!

 

[mswlogo]

Don’t lube threads. The lube will attract dirt and eventually they will be a mess. Just keep them clean. I also tighten lugs as much as I can before setting them down and doing a final torque.

 

[dgpcolorado]

I also don't lubricate the lugs; my impression is that the lug nut caps likely keep the lugs fairly clean — at least they seem clean on my car, no corrosion or anything like that.

All hand tools for me. Breaker bar to loosen the nuts, cross type tire iron to spin the nuts off or on. Snug them using the typical cross/star pattern before lowering the car onto the tires. I then go around the car and torque all the nuts one wheel at a time, again using a cross pattern and using the lug nut caps to mark which ones I have completed. Easy enough to do, although it takes some time. Hardest part is lining up the wheel holes with the lugs.

 

[PrGrPa]

I always lubricate threads. A light application of moly grease or copper-ease prevents seizing.

Though folks are right that a clean, dry thread offers a predictable, linear response to torque wrenching.

You have calibrated your torque wrench haven’t you?

 

[srredbeard]

The threads should not be lubricated prior to assembly and torquing. These are heavy cars with a lot of force on the lugs especially during turns. When you use a lubricate or anti-seize you have to reduce the set torque by 25% in order to not over torque the lug. If you feel you need to apply a protective coating to prevent rusting due to salt and other chemicals on the roads, spray a coating of protective spray after the torque is set. Like others have said, recheck the torque after about 50 to 100 miles.

https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

http://www.intermotive.net/Tech Tip/Tech Tip - Jan 08.pdf

 

[dhrivnak]

When you do a wheel swap, do you lubricate the threads with oil or anti seize? If you do, do you still use the full 129 ft-lbs of torque?

Any tips for making the wheel swap go little smoother for the DIY'er at home? I purchased the 19" lugano wheels from tirerack. I know I need to put the suspension in jack mode. I've done this many times in the past with Audi's, because I tracked those cars and had a dedicated wheel set for track use. Is it going to be hard to break the lug nuts loose on the car? I don't have a 21mm impact socket.

I do as a quick shot of silicone spray helps keep rust off making the next change easier.

 

[Mirlen]

No.

 

[dark cloud]

I would add (for those with a lesser degree of mechanical aptitude who may read this) that you might want to be careful going from "finger tight" to the specified torque of 129 ft/lbs immediately. I would recommend repeated star pattern tightening of the nuts in a gradually increasing the torque a few times (from 40 to 80 ft/lbs etc.) first just to make sure the wheel is seated properly before cranking on one side of it with anything close to 129 ft/lbs. You can even put about 20 ft/lbs with a free suspended wheel with a quick rachet spin before lowering the car. It is just good common practice and worth the extra 20 seconds per wheel IMO.

And brush off/clean debris/possible surface rust between the wheel and the hub before mounting or using your anti-seize.

 

[David.85D]

And brush off/clean debris/possible surface rust between the wheel and the hub before mounting or using your anti-seize.

This! Probably the source of much phantom vibration. Clean both the inside of the wheel where it contacts the hub and the hub. Most people clean the hub and forget the inside of the wheel.

 

[dark cloud]

This! Probably the source of much phantom vibration. Clean both the inside of the wheel where it contacts the hub and the hub. Most people clean the hub and forget the inside of the wheel.

Including the 1lb of crud in the crevasse on the outside edge of the slipstream wheel; who designed those things?

 

[UncaNed]

For my 2018 Model X75D, is there is a universal tire and wheel rim set that could be used like a spare in a pinch on either side, front or rear just to drive home or to a tire shop if I'm stuck somewhere?

If so, exactly what tire and rim do I need to order?

 

[dark cloud]

For my 2018 Model X75D, is there is a universal tire and wheel rim set that could be used like a spare in a pinch on either side, front or rear just to drive home or to a tire shop if I'm stuck somewhere?

If so, exactly what tire and rim do I need to order?

If you go this route and get a doughnut in the frunk you will need a jack; (a good one)and ratchet/socket to carry as well. I think most have gone the route of myself and got a tire repair kit with slime and a small compressor. Tesla sells this of course; not sure if you are aware of this or not:

Model S/X/3 Tire Repair Kit