Swapping out wheels/tires for a winter set - do you lubricate the threads?

[UncaNed]

If you go this route and get a doughnut in the frunk you will need a jack; (a good one)and ratchet/socket to carry as well. I think most have gone the route of myself and got a tire repair kit with slime and a small compressor. Tesla sells this of course; not sure if you are aware of this or not:

Model S/X/3 Tire Repair Kit

A doughnut in the frunk you say? Where could I get such a doughnut?

Could any one of my existing front or rear wheels work in any position in an emergency?

 

[MountainPass]

You will always get mixed answers when you ask a group whether to lubricate wheel studs or not. Even a shop full of licensed mechanics will disagree. With anecdotal references to how they have never had a wheel fall off, and have been oiling threads for 40 years. I have personally never had a lug nut become seized to the threads. Since you are removing and reinstalling them bi-annually, they will never have a chance to become seized to that degree.

 

[A-Wimoweh]

I always lubricate threads. A light application of moly grease or copper-ease prevents seizing.

Though folks are right that a clean, dry thread offers a predictable, linear response to torque wrenching.

You have calibrated your torque wrench haven’t you?

I did the swap this weekend. Pretty easy, except for the weight of the darn wheels. Did not have any issue breaking the lugs loose. In fact, it seemed like the studs were already coated in some light gray compound like anti-sieze.

I have not calibrated my torque wrench since I purchased it back in 2001 I think? A craftsman. I'm always very careful in handling it, never drop it, and always put it back to the lowest torque setting once I am done using it. Is there a way I can calibrate/test it myself?

 

[PrGrPa]

I have not calibrated my torque wrench since I purchased it back in 2001 I think? A craftsman. I'm always very careful in handling it, never drop it, and always put it back to the lowest torque setting once I am done using it. Is there a way I can calibrate/test it myself?

My guess is that for the levels of torque on wheel nuts there’s probably not much in it for a well-cared for tool. I suppose I had slightly humorous intent. However, I used to service medical equipment. Some of the torque tolerances were small and tools were recalibrated by the manufacturer on a regular basis.

 

[dark cloud]

A doughnut in the frunk you say? Where could I get such a doughnut?

Well haven't done any research, so not sure, but I do recall reading it somewhere... cross reference a 5 x 120 bolt pattern with an offset of 35mm; would you need 20" or does a 19" fit on the X? Call your nearest wrecker: they have tons of these but not sure how many are 19" or larger.

edit: did some research for you

Spare tire option, one more time | Tesla

Spare Tire Option?

Could any one of my existing front or rear wheels work in any position in an emergency?

Yes. the rear on your X is wider than the front, and may rub at severe steering input, but for emergency purposes yes. It has the same bolt size and offset; it will fit. Are you planning on just carrying another wheel just in case?

 

[PhilDavid]

Nonononononono!
If you lubricate the threads and then use a torque wrench, you will actually over tighten the lugnuts. This would be bad.
The rated torque is for a 'dry' mating.

It's fine and even wise to put some antiseize, copperslip, jollop of choice on the mating face between the back of the wheel and the face of the hub/disc.

Never use an impact wrench. I do mine by hand twice a year. No biggie. Use a breaker bar to loosen all nuts 1 turn or so (with the car on the ground), put suspension to high setting, enable jack mode, lift her up. With the weight off the car, you put the socket on the nuts and undo by hand (use a normal ratchet handle if needed).
Swap the wheel (adding antiseize to the faces if you wish)
Put all nuts on by hand, finger tight, using no tools.
Drop the car gently.
Now take your torque wrench, set to 129lbft, and tighten all nuts in an opposite pattern. (12 o'clock, 5 o'clock, 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 7 o'clock).
One last click on each but don't over tighten.
Next corner x4.
Disable jack mode and return suspension to normal height (I do this while test driving to avoid that dreadful side force when you drop the car off the jack for the final time).
Do a tpms reset and be sure to switch settings to 19 or 21" as needed.
Photos.
Beer.

Also, check those torques in about 50 to 100km.

Thanks so much for sharing this. Tesla should have a little icon to display what you wrote next to the Jack Mode button!

 

[Supahr_Ed]

I was surprised to see this in Permatex's MSDS:

GENERAL INFORMATION
WARNING: Not for use on wheel lug nut or stud applications.

If you live in a climate that requires maintenance of your lugs & suspension knuckle, I would apply it to the outside of the lug/nut. I still put it on the center hub if you have aftermarket wheels or metal hub centric rings.

 

[Shock-On-T]

I did the swap this weekend. Pretty easy, except for the weight of the darn wheels. Did not have any issue breaking the lugs loose. In fact, it seemed like the studs were already coated in some light gray compound like anti-sieze.

I have not calibrated my torque wrench since I purchased it back in 2001 I think? A craftsman. I'm always very careful in handling it, never drop it, and always put it back to the lowest torque setting once I am done using it. Is there a way I can calibrate/test it myself?

I find the easiest way to lift the wheels back onto the bolts is to sit on the ground in front of the wheel.
Makes it easier to line up the bolts with the holes. I swap between my 19 and 21" rims a lot.
I never lubricate, sounds like a bad idea.

 

[UncaNed]

Yes. the rear on your X is wider than the front, and may rub at severe steering input, but for emergency purposes yes. It has the same bolt size and offset; it will fit. Are you planning on just carrying another wheel just in case?

YAY! Thanks for your reply. I'd like to keep one spare wheel and tire at home and use anywhere on the car in an emergency and otherwise rotate with the other wheels- I guess the other two rear wheels anyway.

Thanks for the other info in your original post, but none seems to apply to Model X.

Also, my front tire got a small puncture in the sidewall; are Model X's a little prone to that? I wonder if there's a tire with a higher sidewall ply rating?

 

[dark cloud]

Thanks for the other info in your original post, but none seems to apply to Model X.

My apologies, but this is the model S forum

Also, my front tire got a small puncture in the sidewall; are Model X's a little prone to that? I wonder if there's a tire with a higher sidewall ply rating?

I would say that is the wrong concept. Did you hit a curb? How about these?

Seriously the Tesla's have prescribed the highest load rating for a tire in their respective sizes due to their weight. You don't have a lot of choice in 265/45/20, (a little more in 22" sizes, which I assume doesn't apply to you?) and all have a load range or service description of 102 (850 kg per tire) or go up to 108 (1000 kg per tire). Difference in sidewall robustness between them? Any tire engineers out there?

The priority with Tesla's, for most people, is performance, noise and ride comfort over maximum resistance to flats. Now if you could get a truck tire with a huge load range to fit in the Tesla wheel well, would you do it? and sacrifice high speed performance and ride? And then if you get suspension damage you would have no warranty. But hey, stranger things have been done by people.

I have never seen any tire tests which test sidewalls against curb damage or nails?? I would assume most reputable tire manufacturers have similar sidewall constructions. Going full circle here I think it is counterintuitive to choose a tire based on the strength and nail resistance of its sidewall, even if you could get the information. it is luck of the draw whether some road borne object becomes lodged into your tire.

If you are that concerned about flats I would say go with run-flats if there is an option, but I had a set (Not on my model S but a different car) and didn't like them much and they are a little pricier.

 

[LukasSwan]

I recommend against using an impact socket. Use a 6 point socket with a breaker bar to loosen them. When jacked up above ground then I use a cordless driver to remove the nuts. When mounting, start the nuts by hand to prevent cross threading. Then I use the cordless driver again to tighten them. Once back on the ground use a torque wrench to tighten to spec.
Impact tools tend to deform the nuts. i use no lubricant.

This is how I do it and it is great.

 

[jerry33]

Never use lubricant. If you do, you'll be lucky if you don't snap the bolts off. Torque settings are for clean dry threads.

 

[nevrenuf]

Confession : I've made that mistake on a brand new car. I pulled the wheels off to paint my calipers. When putting wheels back onto my brand new Corvette, I decided to put anti-seize on the threads and mating surfaces. When tightening the lug nuts, I simply couldn't get to the 100 ft-lb torque. Eventually the lug nut pulled nearly through the aluminum wheel, ruining it. i had to replace the wheel. YMMV but this is a lesson I Iearned the hard way. Just my 2 cents.