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Sway Bar Issues?
- Thread starter Mod Y Guy
- Start date
Note my issue and most I have heard of were with front control arms.
Yah, that's the problem I have seen as well. It's been so tough tracking this noise down. I even bought a GoPro camera to record underneath the car and still came up empty. It's pretty maddening. I just want to make sure it's not a safety issue. All is torqued down as it should be and nothing is visibly off.
The saga continues...
The Tesla Service Center passed the buck and two pro shops couldn't place the noise. Maybe I just chose the wrong places to take my car. Anyway, I kept researching and ended up buying the Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR Auto Diagnostic Tool Kit. Why didn't I do this three months ago?! Better yet, why didn't one of the places I took it to do this?! Well, that's neither here nor there. I hooked up the ChassisEARs and voila!! There was heavy chatter coming from the driver side knuckle. I stuck those clamps on various suspension arms, near the drive shaft, and all around both knuckles. The noise was truly only heavy in one area on the rear driver side knuckle (pictured below). I have to assume it's a bad knuckle joint or bushing. I purchased a couple low mile used rear knuckles online and will be replacing them this coming weekend. Not an easy task but Tesla wants a boat load of cash to do the job and lucky for me there's You Tube University!
The only other consideration for the noise would be a bad hub wheel bearing (connected to the knuckle) but one step at a time. I'm hunting this damn clunk and I'm close now, finally.
By the way, there's various torque specs everywhere for all the different nuts/bolts that connect to the knuckle and the rear wheels in general. I know the lug nuts are 129 foot pounds, and I believe the axle nut is 185 foot pounds. Can someone lead me to where I can find torque specs for all the rear suspension arms, sway bar end links, etc.? If so, that would be great!
The Tesla Service Center passed the buck and two pro shops couldn't place the noise. Maybe I just chose the wrong places to take my car. Anyway, I kept researching and ended up buying the Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR Auto Diagnostic Tool Kit. Why didn't I do this three months ago?! Better yet, why didn't one of the places I took it to do this?! Well, that's neither here nor there. I hooked up the ChassisEARs and voila!! There was heavy chatter coming from the driver side knuckle. I stuck those clamps on various suspension arms, near the drive shaft, and all around both knuckles. The noise was truly only heavy in one area on the rear driver side knuckle (pictured below). I have to assume it's a bad knuckle joint or bushing. I purchased a couple low mile used rear knuckles online and will be replacing them this coming weekend. Not an easy task but Tesla wants a boat load of cash to do the job and lucky for me there's You Tube University!
The only other consideration for the noise would be a bad hub wheel bearing (connected to the knuckle) but one step at a time. I'm hunting this damn clunk and I'm close now, finally.By the way, there's various torque specs everywhere for all the different nuts/bolts that connect to the knuckle and the rear wheels in general. I know the lug nuts are 129 foot pounds, and I believe the axle nut is 185 foot pounds. Can someone lead me to where I can find torque specs for all the rear suspension arms, sway bar end links, etc.? If so, that would be great!
android04
Active Member
I can't remember if he goes over torque specs, but this guy shows how he replaced a rear knuckleThe saga continues...
The Tesla Service Center passed the buck and two pro shops couldn't place the noise. Maybe I just chose the wrong places to take my car. Anyway, I kept researching and ended up buying the Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR Auto Diagnostic Tool Kit. Why didn't I do this three months ago?! Better yet, why didn't one of the places I took it to do this?! Well, that's neither here nor there. I hooked up the ChassisEARs and voila!! There was heavy chatter coming from the driver side knuckle. I stuck those clamps on various suspension arms, near the drive shaft, and all around both knuckles. The noise was truly only heavy in one area on the rear driver side knuckle (pictured below). I have to assume it's a bad knuckle joint or bushing. I purchased a couple low mile used rear knuckles online and will be replacing them this coming weekend. Not an easy task but Tesla wants a boat load of cash to do the job and lucky for me there's You Tube University!
By the way, there's various torque specs everywhere for all the different nuts/bolts that connect to the knuckle and the rear wheels in general. I know the lug nuts are 129 foot pounds, and I believe the axle nut is 185 foot pounds. Can someone lead me to where I can find torque specs for all the rear suspension arms, sway bar end links, etc.? If so, that would be great!
View attachment 655308
View attachment 655309
Thanks @android04
Funny, I’ve had this video bookmarked for a few weeks now. Unfortunately, torque specs aren’t discussed. However, this is basically the only video out there that shows how to replace the knuckle on a Model 3. Turns out it didn’t solve his clunking noise but I’m hopeful it’ll fix mine. Fingers crossed.
Here is my experience, after installing the rear eibach sway bars I hear the clunk on my rear passenger side. Went back under to investigate, the problem is once you have both sides bolted on and then you have the two center bolts to bolt down you have to center it so it would not slide over more to one side which causes the clunk. The clunk happens when its off centered and usually when your hitting a dip or backing out of a drive way. I recenter and the clunk went away for about 3 months, and just heard the clunk again but have not had the time to investigate. But I can stick my hand in and I can tell its moved over more to the right again, will readjust one more time if it happens again I'll probably reinstall the stock sway bars. I will post some pictures so you'll see, the clunk is touching the black lower control arm or whatever its called.
Yah, I think also depending on what setting you have your adjustable sway bar on--soft, medium, or hard--the sway bar can come in contact with one of the arms since the car is most likely lowered as well. If on OEM Tesla sway bar and stock springs there isn't any contact.
Unfortunately, my noise has been happening for months now, well before I installed new adjustable sway bars and end links. I truly think the noise is coming from either (a) the knuckle (bad joint/bushing) or (b) hub wheel bearing (possibly needing lubricant on the splines/axle). I'm hopeful it will be resolved soon.
yeahthatguy
Member
The saga continues...
The Tesla Service Center passed the buck and two pro shops couldn't place the noise. Maybe I just chose the wrong places to take my car. Anyway, I kept researching and ended up buying the Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR Auto Diagnostic Tool Kit. Why didn't I do this three months ago?! Better yet, why didn't one of the places I took it to do this?! Well, that's neither here nor there. I hooked up the ChassisEARs and voila!! There was heavy chatter coming from the driver side knuckle. I stuck those clamps on various suspension arms, near the drive shaft, and all around both knuckles. The noise was truly only heavy in one area on the rear driver side knuckle (pictured below). I have to assume it's a bad knuckle joint or bushing. I purchased a couple low mile used rear knuckles online and will be replacing them this coming weekend. Not an easy task but Tesla wants a boat load of cash to do the job and lucky for me there's You Tube University!
By the way, there's various torque specs everywhere for all the different nuts/bolts that connect to the knuckle and the rear wheels in general. I know the lug nuts are 129 foot pounds, and I believe the axle nut is 185 foot pounds. Can someone lead me to where I can find torque specs for all the rear suspension arms, sway bar end links, etc.? If so, that would be great!
Man, this thing looks awesome! I've never heard of these before. So my understanding is that its basically a couple transmitters + amplifier that you attach to different points on the vehicle, drive around and isolate the area via which ever transmitter had the highest dB?
@yeahthatguy That's exactly right. I hadn't heard of it either but it definitely works. The wireless feature is great! I took a short video so those of you unfamiliar with ChassisEARs can see it in action. It clearly picks up the noise where it's the loudest.
Noise in the rear suspension
Noise in the rear suspension
yeahthatguy
Member
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing, I cant believe I haven't heard of these before. It makes perfect sense, one of those "why didnt I think of that" types things.
@DK21 you are doing an incredible job with this. Thanks for all the time and effort (and money) your spending trying to track it down. I recently had my car at the SC and did a ride along to have the tech hear the issue. While I was able to reproduce, they didn't completely fix the issue. They did find that the trunk was bumping against the chassis and made an adjustment but I still hear the clunk. I can't wait to see what you come up with on this one and how you stop it permanently.
Side note- I wish more people would read this because I'm sure it's more widespread than just the few on this thread. The bigger the sample size, the better chance at a resolution
Side note- I wish more people would read this because I'm sure it's more widespread than just the few on this thread. The bigger the sample size, the better chance at a resolution
PerfectNumber
Member
I've been on this forum for years now and have received help and info along the way from many members. It's a great community of people. I'm just trying to help others who may end up having a similar noise (and possibly hear from others that have had similar experiences as well). I was hopeful to do the work this weekend but will have to wait because the jack stands I purchased won't arrive for a couple weeks (went with The RennStand by Safe Jack). I figured I need to do this the right way and two jacks is definitely not safe enough.
I ended up buying a digital service manual for the Model 3 online for less than ten bucks but I also stumbled across fixyourtesla and found the same info there (where you can find all the torque specs and step-by-step directions for replacement and removal of parts... awesome!). I'm going on three years now with my Model 3 and hope to have it for at least five more years (hence the reason I'm hunting this clunk with vigor). Keep you all posted.
I ended up buying a digital service manual for the Model 3 online for less than ten bucks but I also stumbled across fixyourtesla and found the same info there (where you can find all the torque specs and step-by-step directions for replacement and removal of parts... awesome!). I'm going on three years now with my Model 3 and hope to have it for at least five more years (hence the reason I'm hunting this clunk with vigor). Keep you all posted.
android04
Active Member
Nice that fixyourtesla now has a lot more useful info now that they've added info from the service manual. When I checked it out some time ago it only had basic info for Model 3 and I discounted it as a useful resource for me. Now it's going on my bookmarks. Thanks for bringing that to our attention!
By the way, if you do plan on tackling a knuckle removal and replacement on your Model 3, here's what you'll need:
1. Service Manual (for step-by-step instructions with visuals)
2. 21mm combination wrench
3. 18mm combination wrench
4. 9/16-inch combination wrench
5. 5/8-inch combination wrench
6. 10mm socket (for ABS sensor bolt)
7. 1-1/4" or 32mm socket with breaker bar (for axle nut)
8. 9/16-inch socket with small ratchet
9. Torque wrench (with at least 180 Ft-Lb of torque for axle nut)
10. 8 or 10-inch adjustable wrench
11. Spring compressor
12. Two jacks
13. Two jack stands
14. Soft face mallet
15. Lug nut wrench
16. Penetrating oil or WD-40 (to loosen nuts and bolts if needed)
17. Paint Pen or Sharpie
18. 5mm hex wrench (allen wrench)
19. Power drill (with torx bit set)
20. Two wheel chocks
21. Wire cleaning brush
22. Molykote M-77 lubricant paste (for greasing parts that may need it)
23. Time, patience, and a friend (might be the toughest to find... haha)
1. Service Manual (for step-by-step instructions with visuals)
2. 21mm combination wrench
3. 18mm combination wrench
4. 9/16-inch combination wrench
5. 5/8-inch combination wrench
6. 10mm socket (for ABS sensor bolt)
7. 1-1/4" or 32mm socket with breaker bar (for axle nut)
8. 9/16-inch socket with small ratchet
9. Torque wrench (with at least 180 Ft-Lb of torque for axle nut)
10. 8 or 10-inch adjustable wrench
11. Spring compressor
12. Two jacks
13. Two jack stands
14. Soft face mallet
15. Lug nut wrench
16. Penetrating oil or WD-40 (to loosen nuts and bolts if needed)
17. Paint Pen or Sharpie
18. 5mm hex wrench (allen wrench)
19. Power drill (with torx bit set)
20. Two wheel chocks
21. Wire cleaning brush
22. Molykote M-77 lubricant paste (for greasing parts that may need it)
23. Time, patience, and a friend (might be the toughest to find... haha)
*UPDATE* completely swapped out both rear knuckles and the sound... is still there. Ugh. I’m just turning up the volume on the radio at this point. All is torqued down properly so I’m just chalking it up to normal wear and tear (although I know that ain’t it). If it gets worse I’ll either (a) chase it or (b) get a prius. 
Possibility for sure. Definite metal-to-metal contact going on. Only things left would be (a) wheel bearing (which looked good when replacing the knuckles), (b) half shaft/axle issue (not sure what the issue would be), or (c) as you mentioned the bushings connected to the drive shaft (don't think I could replace those on my own though). I'm really not sure why it's been so elusive but it definitely hasn't been fun. Chasing a suspension noise sucks.
