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Hello Everyone, sorry I’ve seen this a bit late to the Feb 12th revival of this thread as I’m not on the boards often. We 100% stand behind the engineering of our parts and we thrive on clients that love our work.
In a limited # of cases (depending on front sway bar setting and use) we’ve become aware of paint transfer at the end of the sway bar due to light contact on full lock. This subject is related to our very first batch of sway bars and we’ve only seen reports of it occurring a handful of times relative to the # of bars on the road.
Since we work on long term client projects all the time, we have cars come back for further upgrades and we monitor the use of all of the upgrades. We’ve been watching the first batch of sway bars and usually when we see cars come back in with them we see zero evidence of paint transfer (no interference).
Nonetheless, late last year we identified that we wanted to optimize this and so we adjusted the front sway bar design to ensure zero chance of this ever happening again in any use case.
We make micro adjustments to our products all the time which is an added benefit of being made in USA and having direct involvement with our clients and friends in the community.
For any of our valued clients who have ordered the earliest batch of our front sway bar, you are welcome to reach out to us with a photo of any chipping on the sway bar and we will offer a 100% free replacement for you to our newer front bar with the shorter ends.
Our newer front bar is identical visually and has the same stiffness and rates, we’ve just slightly shortened the ends to ensure this never happens again.
If you have this occurring please email me directly [email protected] and ask for Eddy so that I can work with you and assist you personally.
First and foremost we are members of the community and users of our own products since 2013. We’ve been at forefront of innovation and Tesla tuning and we stand behind all of our products to ensure that our clients love them. We will be here to support all requests with our best efforts so please reach out by email at any time.
Email Sent!Eddy-
Email & photos sent earlier today. Should I expect a reply by tomorrow?
Thanks.
Email Sent!
-Eddy
b) At least two people, including me, have the front end-link rub the lower control arm when using the softest position. Nothing to do with the bar itself being too long and transferring blue paint; this is a tolerance issue of where the holes are drilled:
UP Front Sway Bar Endlink Rubbing
Well, since @UnpluggedP is responding to this thread:
a) Your sway bar instructions call for torquing the sway bar end-link nuts to 93 ft-lbs which is not only insanely high, it caused my rear end-link to snap. Never got a reply when I sent a web form about this. Doesn't anybody review the instructions?
UP sway bar install - end link snapped following torque spec
b) At least two people, including me, have the front end-link rub the lower control arm when using the softest position. Nothing to do with the bar itself being too long and transferring blue paint; this is a tolerance issue of where the holes are drilled:
UP Front Sway Bar Endlink Rubbing
Also sending a copy of the above issues to [email protected]
Big thanks to @SD_Engnr for figuring out KLC180-295 and KLC102 are the proper links for P3.
I don’t think the exact model matters that much. I’ve track my car with 180-295 and 180-275. Both of them can accommodate the full range of travel of my suspension setup.Weird, I ordered those PNs and the numbers on the links (the strut body itself) appear to be different. I see you have 65007 and 65014, but my KLC180-295 shows 65011...time to call whiteline!
I don’t think the exact model matters that much. I’ve track my car with 180-295 and 180-275. Both of them can accommodate the full range of travel of my suspension setup.
Yep. Photos don’t lie. Your KLC102 is much longer.Ah i believe it's the KLC102 that is off, look at what they sent me compared to yours in the third post. The KLC102 definitely looks longer for me compared to yours and doesn't fit in the rear.
View attachment 517758
So it’s the same number but they’re bagging a different length endlink altogether?
Ski
Follow up on the endlink rubbing issue from the UP sway bars: UP Front Sway Bar Endlink Rubbing