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Switched 12v power line to tap into?

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by tornado, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. tornado

    tornado Member

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    Hi,

    I'm installing a built in radar detector to my Model S and am looking to tap the equivalent of switched (ignition on) power in the cabin. Has anyone done something similar? I don't want to do an always-on tap in case my RD doesn't auto-shut-off after inactivity. Any suggestions appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

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    I used the Power steering 5 amp fuse for mine. It comes on when the car is turned on.
     
  3. tornado

    tornado Member

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    Thank you
     
  4. grisnjam

    grisnjam P6316

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    Thanks for this, is it easy to get the wire from the frunk (where the fuse box is) into the cabin?
     
  5. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

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    I went through the gromet where the power for the Heater is routed in front of the passenger seat just towards the middle from the cabin air intake (also posted in 9500 ci thread) . There are two orange wires about #8's going through a large gromet. I made a small hole lateral to those wires for my power and sensor wires to pass through the firewall. Silicone to seal afterwards.
     
  6. JohnQ

    JohnQ Active Member

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    Funny to read 'firewall' in this context. Did you use high-temp sealant, too? :smile: I don't know what you'd call it other than that, though.
     
  7. grisnjam

    grisnjam P6316

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    Thanks. I looked thought the 9500ci thread and was wondering if you have photos of the power wire entering the cabin as well (or did I miss them) or on the other side in the frunk entering the fuse area? I just hardwiring a 9500xi up near the rearview mirror ...

    I am sure it will all be more clear once I have the car in hand next week.

    Thanks,
     
  8. Ditpixs

    Ditpixs Member

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    I actually made a hole through the "firewall" just to the left of the drain hose you will see when you take the frunk apart. Worked well since I needed to pass so many wires through for the laser detectors and radar unit.

    For power, I used the glove box light fuse. I like to keep it powered since it saves the noise and delay of waiting for boot-up.

    Note that the coating on the windshield will significantly impact a detector put in the window - hence why so many are doing custom installs.

    Aaron
     
  9. grisnjam

    grisnjam P6316

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    Right, has this been tested? I heard that there was a window in the coating near the rearview?
     
  10. Ditpixs

    Ditpixs Member

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  11. Lloyd

    Lloyd Active Member

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    I did not take photos. It will be readily visible if you follow my directions above.
     
  12. grisnjam

    grisnjam P6316

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    Yeah I have been following that thread as I will have both a toll pass and detector. Looking though the posts again I see some questions about radar detectors and the coating but no tests. Maybe I'll run some tests once I get mine next week since I already have a 9500xi ...

    Thanks,
     
  13. Xenoilphobe

    Xenoilphobe Active Member

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    #13 Xenoilphobe, Dec 27, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
    Just got done installing my Power Magic Pro (Battery Discharge Prevention Device) to support the install of my BlackVue DR650GW HD 2 Channel Dash Camera. I was extremely uncomfortable following the directions that directed us to go through the passenger side firewall (right next to the DC to DC 400 VDC 85KW Inverter that feeds the Low Power DC Battery 12VDC.

    Here is the option I chose:

    1. Remove the rear funk cover parallel to the windshield.
    2. Zip tie the Power Magic Pro near in between fuse Panel #2 and fuse panel #3 (see picture)
    3. Jack the car up and remove passenger side wheel and wheel well liner (5 quick disconnects and one 12 MM bolt)
    4. Move wheel well liner out of the way
    5. find the conduit that run the long axis of the car parallel to the High Power Battery (see picture)
    Model S Passenger side wheel well.png Model S Passenger side conduit.png
    6. Remove passenger side skid plate and drill one hole through skid plate 2 inches back from the door hinge.
    Model S Passenger side door sill.jpg
    7. Fish a coat hanger down the conduit to connect to the wire that has been fed into the passenger side wheel well.
    8. Pull coat hanger back with wire connected - you are now in the passenger compartment and have worked your way around the firewall.
    9. Connect the accessory wire "Trigger" to #F75 (Power Steering) in fuse box 3 and connect constant "battery" wire to #F54 (Open) in fuse box #2.
    Model S Fuse Box.png
    10. Connect ground wire to location in picture.


    Hard part is over - reassemble and test for power.
     

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  14. Xenoilphobe

    Xenoilphobe Active Member

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    Power Magic Pro failed within 24 Hours, removed it and wired direct - no issues as the DC to DC Converter prevents discharge and has a sensor that monitors battery discharge. Returning PMP for credit.
     
  15. HankLloydRight

    HankLloydRight Fluxing

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    So much complication for a switched 12v supply. Simply remove the passenger side console wall ( just snaps out) and you'll find the power lines for the USB jacks. Tap into those for switched 12 volts. Add a fuse if you want. No need to do anything in the frunk or mess with the fuse box.
     
  16. HankLloydRight

    HankLloydRight Fluxing

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    I'm out tonight but I can post a pic or two tomorrow. It's very simple .
     
  17. Xenoilphobe

    Xenoilphobe Active Member

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    Now you tell me! Got to spend several hours playing with the Tesla and it could have been much more simple...
     
  18. HankLloydRight

    HankLloydRight Fluxing

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    #18 HankLloydRight, Dec 31, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2014
    Sorry! But I found out about the USB feed lines from other folks in the many other dashcam and radar install threads right here on TMC.
     
  19. liuping

    liuping Active Member

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    I read the dash cam thread periodically (I'm currently just plugged into the lighter port) but missed the posts about the USB power taps. That sounds pretty easy. Looking forward to you pics.
     
  20. HankLloydRight

    HankLloydRight Fluxing

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    See attached images.

    Step 1: Remove trim panel #1 (blurry pic, sorry). You can use your fingers or a pry tool. It just snaps off in one piece.
    Step 2: Remove trim panel #2 (clear pic). It also just snaps out. You may need to remove the floor mat to get it out.
    Step 3: Pull back carpet in the corner (last three pics) to reveal the connectors. They might be further down/back the first time, but they should be there.

    You can see one connector in the pic, but there are actually two down there. There is a little slack in the wire, so you can pull them out to get to the leads going into the connectors. I used a wire tap to tap into the existing wires. Use a voltmeter to figure out which one is positive and negative (or just use any other ground for negative).

    I used this tap to install both a rear-view mirror mounted dashcam as well as a Valentine 1, including the concealed display and remote audio adapter. I did add a 5 amp inline fuse on the positive tap just for extra protection.

    I've since pulled out the V1 and had a Bell STiR+ professionally installed, and they also used this same tap location for power. I also ditched the mirror mounted dashcam and installed a LUKAS 5900 duo connected to constant +12v via the OBDII connector in the driver's footwell. That's also very easy to do for constant power not needing to tap the fuse box or run wires from the frunk or through the firewall.
     

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