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Switched NEMA 14-30 & Mobile Charger

Wanna switch my 30A dryer circuit with this:Legrande-Pass & Seymour
The neutrals will not be switched, just tied together. This will feed an outside NEMA 14-30r:
Enerlites
Which will feed the Tesla Mobile Charger with its 14-30p adapter.

Plan to leave the Mobile Charger plugged in most of the time with the whole assembly permanently covered to keep out the weather. Will want a door to access the charger.

Suggestions? See any problems?
 
Yeah, should be fine. It probably doesn't comply with your electrical code but the charger will only pull 24A on that circuit so it's really not much different than the light switch in your living room (which also leaves the neutral floating).

You could use an in-use outlet box cover to deal with the plug but you'll need to be crafty to protect the box on the cable.
 
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Frank99

April 2018 Model 3 LR RWD, EAP, FSD
Apr 7, 2016
402
546
Arizona
Interesting solution to the problem. I wouldn't have thought of that. It would be a heck of a lot easier than plugging/unplugging.

Looks like a quality switch, rated appropriately for your use. I don't know the electrical code well enough to know if your plan (switching the hots and tying the neutrals) is allowed; seems like it should be and should work just fine. If it's not allowed by code, installing a 6-30 could be an alternative (NEMA 6-30 doesn't have a neutral).

Are you planning on covering just the outlet, using something like:
or are you planning on covering the outlet + UMC? That might require a custom enclosure.
 
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The 30A circuit breaker and Main panel is between the dryer (about 20ft away) and the parking spot. All I have to do is break the existing line to the dryer at a spot closest to where I want the 14-30 for the car. Install the switch there and run a new line to the new 14-30 for the car.
So the manual switch will be easier to install, and substantially cheaper as well.
And as we rarely use the dryer, manually switching is not a problem.
 
I'm not familiar with the switch, but I'd avoid switching a live load due to possible arcing.

As mentioned earlier, if you want to avoid splitting the neutral, just use a NEMA 6-30R for the UMC and leave the neutral for the dryer (which actually uses it)
Looking at Tesla's Mobile Charger manual, I don't see a 6-30 adapter. If they had one, I'd go for it.
 
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If it were me, I'd add a small meter to show amperage while you're doing it. Help keep you from killing the dryer you didn't know was running.

61odPG9VEoL._SL1500_.jpg

 
If it were me, I'd add a small meter to show amperage while you're doing it. Help keep you from killing the dryer you didn't know was running.

61odPG9VEoL._SL1500_.jpg

Oh the dryer Is old and rather loud. When it runs which is rare. We still use outdoor laundry lines (and deal with frozen sheets) and indoor drying racks next to the wood stove.

The Tesla will definitely be the highest Tech item in our lives.

But I like the meter ...
 
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Well got that Pass Seymour 30A switch linked in the first post.
But it also has stamped onto it:
2HP @ 120V
2HP @ 240V
But 2 HP is only 1.5 kW, or 6.2A @ 240V?

The switch is designed as a motor controller so maybe there are surge issues with motors? Issues that I can ignore for car charging and clothes drying?
 
Please clarify that you are wiring this as "either-or" load and not just an on-off switch for your dryer. You want this to be a single 240V circuit with the switch selecting one of the loads, not both simultaneously, correct?

EDIT: this switch may not allow source selection. You should try to run a dedicated circuit to the EVSE and leave the dryer circuit alone.
 
Please clarify that you are wiring this as "either-or" load and not just an on-off switch for your dryer. You want this to be a single 240V circuit with the switch selecting one of the loads, not both simultaneously, correct?

EDIT: this switch may not allow source selection. You should try to run a dedicated circuit to the EVSE and leave the dryer circuit alone.
The switch is DPDT, with the center terminals connected to either end depending upon switch position.

Actually glad you asked. Just verified the above with an ohmmeter but discovered that with the toggle thrown to the right, it is the Left terminals that are connected to the center. Reverse of what I had assumed.

(Also, this switch has no center off position.)
 
Well it's all in and working. Rather, there are no sparks/smoke, and the dryer works when it's selected via the switch. And I measure 240V at the charger's NEMA 14-30 (no charger yet) when it's selected.

But, dam, wrapping 10ga wire around the switch's screws, and cramming all those 10ga leads into an extended octogon box was challenging.

Thanks all for the assistance.
 

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