Hey everyone, here is my write up on a temp fix for the back up camera if you think it’s because of the coaxial cable losing connection due to crimping of the cable from opening and closing the trunk as opposed to just a SW bug. This fix is completely reversible when the time comes for Tesla to implement their recall fix, whenever that may be. Because this fix is plug and play and is non-destructive, they can’t deny performing the recall fix because you modified something. And at this rate, with their “don’t call us, we’ll call you” attitude, I’ll probably take delivery of a Cybertruck before they actually fix this.
For me, and more importantly my wife, a backup camera is a must. Yes, I know, you can do an over the shoulder check, but the trunk on this car sits so high up, there is no way you would see a toddler or a kid’s bike out the rear window. Anyways, the reason why you may want a working rearview camera doesn’t matter. If you want to a temp fix here is mine.
At a high level, my workaround is to disconnect Tesla’s coaxial cable from the backup camera to the downstream wiring harness and connect a new one in between, but leave it hanging down in the trunk and not have it go through the rubber tubing that is getting crimped by the trunk closure.
The cost is $8 for a cable from Amazon and about ~2 hours of labor which is almost all spent on trying to remove interior panels.
First some details on my experience:
What finally convinced me that this was indeed caused by the cable crimp issue and not so much a SW issue was when I did a hard reset sequence, with the trunk open, and the rear view was working on the center screen. Then I slowly closed the trunk while watching the rearview display and I could see it cut out. This was repeatable multiple times at about the same angle of trunk closing. It was only about 3-4 degrees of closing – so barely closing the trunk at all.
Onwards to the temp fix. The hardest, most time-consuming part of this process is trying to remove the rear passenger side trim. That took me about 2 hours the first time to take it apart and put it back together. The cable connection itself takes about 5 minutes.
First, the part you need:
Replacement coax cable – 10 Foot RG174 Coax cable with FAKRA Z connectors - $8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P2VBYWZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
*Note, I believe the Tesla Connectors for their cable are FAKRA type D. But FAKRA type Z is a universal connector and supposedly fits all FAKRA types. The one I linked to above fit perfectly.
Power down the car. This helps with two things:
www.mountainpassperformance.com
Next pop off the tesla trunk liftgate cover: Follow this video starting at 2:31
Now you can see the connection to the rear camera:
Go ahead and disconnect that cable
Next is the tedious part. Removing the rear passenger side seat and overhead doorway trim.
You don’t actually have to remove the whole rear deck panel. I only removed the rear passenger side, the side seat trim, overhead door sill trim, and the roof trim that slants down the back window. That allowed me to lift the rear deck panel enough to squeeze my hand underneath to disconnect the coaxial cable connection as seen here:
I couldn’t really find any good videos with much detail on removing the rear door sill trim. Just know that you need to be able to lift up the passenger side of the rear deck cover, which is the pretty carpet like panel just below the rear window. If you search up “Tesla 3 rear deck lid removal”, you might find some videos on it. Here is one example:
Once you disconnect Tesla’s coaxial cable, you just plug in your new one. For me, I took off one of the grab handles on the trunk liftgate cover and ran the cable through there, then up and into the underside of the rear deck. I added some plastic loom to cover the cable and I just taped it down with some painter’s tape. I plan on getting some gaffers tape as the painter’s tape doesn’t stick too well to the trunk liftgate cover.
Once you make the connection power back on your car, check the rear view display works, and put everything back together.
Well, I hope this helps someone who is tired of waiting for Tesla to address this issue.
For me, and more importantly my wife, a backup camera is a must. Yes, I know, you can do an over the shoulder check, but the trunk on this car sits so high up, there is no way you would see a toddler or a kid’s bike out the rear window. Anyways, the reason why you may want a working rearview camera doesn’t matter. If you want to a temp fix here is mine.
At a high level, my workaround is to disconnect Tesla’s coaxial cable from the backup camera to the downstream wiring harness and connect a new one in between, but leave it hanging down in the trunk and not have it go through the rubber tubing that is getting crimped by the trunk closure.
The cost is $8 for a cable from Amazon and about ~2 hours of labor which is almost all spent on trying to remove interior panels.
First some details on my experience:
- 2018 Tesla Model 3 AWD, w/ enhanced autopilot
- Rearview camera intermittently gave black screen over past ~3 years
- Became more frequent over time
- Last 2 months – 99% of time, no review camera
- Soft reset rarely helped (2 thumb button press down until center display disappears)
- Hard reset sometimes worked (disconnect 12v battery, open contactor relays under rear passenger seat)
- My VIN is included in the backup cam recall – I received the letter in the mail and the email.
What finally convinced me that this was indeed caused by the cable crimp issue and not so much a SW issue was when I did a hard reset sequence, with the trunk open, and the rear view was working on the center screen. Then I slowly closed the trunk while watching the rearview display and I could see it cut out. This was repeatable multiple times at about the same angle of trunk closing. It was only about 3-4 degrees of closing – so barely closing the trunk at all.
Onwards to the temp fix. The hardest, most time-consuming part of this process is trying to remove the rear passenger side trim. That took me about 2 hours the first time to take it apart and put it back together. The cable connection itself takes about 5 minutes.
First, the part you need:
Replacement coax cable – 10 Foot RG174 Coax cable with FAKRA Z connectors - $8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P2VBYWZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
*Note, I believe the Tesla Connectors for their cable are FAKRA type D. But FAKRA type Z is a universal connector and supposedly fits all FAKRA types. The one I linked to above fit perfectly.
Power down the car. This helps with two things:
- Brings the rear camera back online faster after you replace this cable, as opposed to waiting for a deep sleep
- Maybe reduces the chances of accidentally setting off the side airbags when removing the rear passenger side door sill trim? I’m not sure if they get their own auxiliary power. Would make sense if they do, but doesn’t hurt to do this step.
Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - How-To Perform a 12V Reset on Your Tesla!
Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - Mountain Pass Performance - A How-To/DIY Guide on performing a hard 12V Reset in Your Tesla Model 3!
www.mountainpassperformance.com
Next pop off the tesla trunk liftgate cover: Follow this video starting at 2:31
Now you can see the connection to the rear camera:
Go ahead and disconnect that cable
Next is the tedious part. Removing the rear passenger side seat and overhead doorway trim.
You don’t actually have to remove the whole rear deck panel. I only removed the rear passenger side, the side seat trim, overhead door sill trim, and the roof trim that slants down the back window. That allowed me to lift the rear deck panel enough to squeeze my hand underneath to disconnect the coaxial cable connection as seen here:
I couldn’t really find any good videos with much detail on removing the rear door sill trim. Just know that you need to be able to lift up the passenger side of the rear deck cover, which is the pretty carpet like panel just below the rear window. If you search up “Tesla 3 rear deck lid removal”, you might find some videos on it. Here is one example:
Once you disconnect Tesla’s coaxial cable, you just plug in your new one. For me, I took off one of the grab handles on the trunk liftgate cover and ran the cable through there, then up and into the underside of the rear deck. I added some plastic loom to cover the cable and I just taped it down with some painter’s tape. I plan on getting some gaffers tape as the painter’s tape doesn’t stick too well to the trunk liftgate cover.
Once you make the connection power back on your car, check the rear view display works, and put everything back together.
Well, I hope this helps someone who is tired of waiting for Tesla to address this issue.
