Tesla Claims Warranty is Void Due to Aftermarket Puddle Lights

[Pianewman]

Not true - When you manually unlatch the door, it also rolls down the window slightly (if the electrical system is working properly)

Go try it.

So my question remains, will it be possible to open a door (using somewhat normal force) without the electric roll down system working ?

Thank you for the correction. I just tried this, and you are correct. I'm wondering if this slight rolldown was a software upgrade at some point, because I distinctly remember being told, and reading here, that you should NEVER manually open the door because the window was being held in the roof slot. I never challenged this statement by testing it.

I'm now curious about the answer to your question.

 

[P3dStealth]

Thank you for the correction. I just tried this, and you are correct. I'm wondering if this slight rolldown was a software upgrade at some point, because I distinctly remember being told, and reading here, that you should NEVER manually open the door because the window was being held in the roof slot. I never challenged this statement by testing it.

I'm now curious about the answer to your question.

It was a software update. It use to not roll down and you had to push the door open. It scratch enough peoples trim that they pushed an update. It also use to alert you to not use it because it damages trim on the screen.

 

[P3dStealth]

As for a previous post about windows getting iced into the roof channel. Tesla has solve this problem by automatically lowering all windows approx. 1/4" when the temps drop near freezing, The seal still functions, keeping water out, but the glass isn't getting frozen inside the channel.

It doesn't work. I'm in the northeast and my windows freeze randomly in winter. The door handles also. The only way around it is to run the defrost on high for a while. Its the price we pay for cool door handles and frameless windows I guess. Normally there is another door that isn't frozen so you can get in and stay warm though. I've never been stuck in the cold from it. I like the door handles so it's a trade off.

 

[ps134]

Interesting thread, but I have to say when you are spending what it takes to purchase....say a MYLR, you should expect the same level of quality and service if you purchased any other luxury SUV. That certainly should be the goal, and no excuses. And if there is a gap (and lets be clear, there is) it should be addressed at all levels of the enterprise.

The 'problem' if that the the correct terminology is that Tesla can't fill the orders they already have, so it will delay dealing with the underlying weakness in the product offering and support systems. It is way easier to implement processes and procedures when the company is small; not so easy when huge.

Without fixing these issues, it will provide an opportunity for others to catch up and surpass; we have seen this time and again in similar and other industries.

I am a big fan of Japanese products, they are disciplined and I was waiting 3 years ago for Japanese car makers to come up with any hint of future EV development but nothing in spy photos or rumours. So I went with Tesla which at present is still the best in terms of range but the fits and finish is a disappointment, service is hit and miss. I would run out and buy another EV from Japan if its here. Tesla is a great software company, as automaker ?? the jury is out

 

[ps134]

When I said "manual", I was talking about the manual latch on the lower part of the door handle. It is NOT electric, and the windows do NOT open at all. It is meant to be used as an emergency release. The force of opening the door forces the window laterally out of the upper seal. It's important to slightly open the window prior to closing the door with the window in its full up position.

Tesla isn't alone with the frameless design. Tesla is getting around the problem by automatically opening the windows 1/4" when temps are at or below freezing.

Lol, if the windows freeze up, just have to stand up higher and pee on it, its rude , but believe me ,it will solve the problem

 

[ps134]

It doesn't work. I'm in the northeast and my windows freeze randomly in winter. The door handles also. The only way around it is to run the defrost on high for a while. Its the price we pay for cool door handles and frameless windows I guess. Normally there is another door that isn't frozen so you can get in and stay warm though. I've never been stuck in the cold from it. I like the door handles so it's a trade off.

I read story that some newer Tesla owners on heat pumps up in Alaska had to have the car serviced 1000 miles away from their home.

 

[spokey]

I am a big fan of Japanese products, they are disciplined and I was waiting 3 years ago for Japanese car makers to come up with any hint of future EV development but nothing in spy photos or rumours. So I went with Tesla which at present is still the best in terms of range but the fits and finish is a disappointment, service is hit and miss. I would run out and buy another EV from Japan if its here. Tesla is a great software company, as automaker ?? the jury is out

Same here. Started with Datsun in the 70's, moved to Toyota in the 2000's and Subaru in 2015. I wrote to the president of subaru in 2019(?) telling him I'd buy an Outback EV tomorrow if it got >250 mi. I got an answer but it was apparent that an EV might not come in my lifetime.

I considered the Kia/Hyundai cousins but really felt I wanted more range so here I am. Like my MY alot. Lots of utility. I'd do it again although maybe do the the 19" wheels and spend the money on aftermarket better looking wheels. I've had good luck so far with 3 mobile services. Fit and finsih? Yeah not as good as the Outback or our Camry Hybrid but I don't really notice it and no one has ever commented.

 

[Operator64]

The driver side door didn't close so I banged harder to shut it and the window cracked and more cracks followed.
I’m not sure why common sense don’t prevail here and the op don’t accept personal responsibility for their own actions, warranty has never covered abuse no matter what manufacturer made the product.

 

[a2t2]

for sure that was a bone headed move. never good to force it when something obviously isnt right.

But why the heck did this happen to begin with ? now im super paranoid about closing my doors. And you should see my kids close the doors, I promise you they could give a sh/t if your cute puddle lights are plugged in/working lol. you would think they are closing a 1970 buick skylark 900# front door

 

[spokey]

for sure that was a bone headed move. never good to force it when something obviously isnt right.

But why the heck did this happen to begin with ? now im super paranoid about closing my doors. And you should see my kids close the doors, I promise you they could give a sh/t if your cute puddle lights are plugged in/working lol. you would think they are closing a 1970 buick skylark 900# front door

I have a bit of the same issue and it's not the kids. I winced when the front passenger door is closed. But I did that in previous cars too so I guess I'm just a wuss

 

[Daekwan]

The same thing just happened to me yesterday. I would strongly advise anyone who has 3rd party puddle or panel lights in their doors to remove them and restore the OEM lights. For the people pointing fingers, it's something that happens so suddenly and out of the blue, you simply don't have time to react. Its muscle memory, most of use close car doors with a pretty good amount of force. There is no warning that the 3rd party puddle light has become unplugged.. as it's inside the door and something you cannot immediately visually inspect.

It's virtually impossible for you to notice the window did NOT index correctly before closing the door and seconds later you realize what happens with the window either slams into the car's frame.. or most, unfortunately, shatters on impact. Had no idea this was even possible as I never would have bothered with the puddle lights. Simply not worth the risk.

What sucks most is that I had an appt with CarMax today for them to review the vehicle and make an offer to buy it. I was fully prepared to order a brand new Performance Model Y tonite if the price was right. Once I get the repair completely will see how I feel about it, as this has put such a sour mood on everything. My Y had been flawless since I purchased it 5 months ago.

 

[TomServo]

does anyone know of another vehicle that has frameless windows that auto up/down into a channel in the roof ?

Corvette's have had this feature since 2005 (I owned a 2006 and 2007) and yes they can get "out of sync" and need to be "reindexed" to work properly. If the windows don't "drop" to open they can be damaged when you FORCE the door OPEN or CLOSED as the OP did.

 

[Pianewman]

Ditto for the Cadillac ELR (WHAT? You don't know what an ELR is/was? Time for a google search...)

 

[TomServo]

Doesn’t the Model S and X also have “frameless windows”? This is not something NEW.

 

[ElectricIAC]

Ditto for the Cadillac ELR (WHAT? You don't know what an ELR is/was? Time for a google search...)

I had one. Nice ride.

 

[Srad600Volt]

There are 2 discussions crossing here...we should just keep this on the puddle lights issue and move the "service is bad" rant to some of the other 1,000 or so posts already on here. I do agree the service is bad ... but this isnt a service issue -- its a design flaw issue.

I'll bet there is some intelligence in the puddle lamp circuit - its probably measuring the amp draw and will shut off the circuit via electrically controlled fuse if the circuit draws too much current (ie, light bulb or wire shorted to ground). I imagine that limit is much higher than the aftermarket puddle lamp would ever draw under normal circumstances. It also seems to shut off the circuit if the light is unplugged or circuit is interrupted (ie, light bulb burns out or wire/connector wiggles loose). Im just thinking out loud here so let me know your thoughts ...

That just seems like a really bad idea to me. To open or close the doors, there MUST be functioning electric puddle lamps that dont draw too much or too little current. And, the electric window regulator and all its 1,000 parts must also be functioning correctly. Otherwise its difficult if not impossible to ingress or egress the vehicle. Thats effin crazy ! You do know light bulbs and window regulators die at some point on 100% of every vehicle ever made, right ? And so whats the effect of that failure mode ?

Regarding comment made above if its possible to actually open the door without the window electrically lowering slightly ... are you sure thats possible without alot of force/breaking the window ? I know there is a mechanical release on the arm rest but all that would do is unlatch the lock. The top of the window would still be engaged a good distance into that metal upper roof frame. I bet it would require alot of force to actually open a door when the window didnt drop down... i hope someone isnt drowning or burning while they are having to fight the door to open

this sounds like an incredible liability issue they have designed into something as simple as a car window.

The Abstract Ocean website explains the issue right on their puddle light page...https://abstractocean.com/pages/modely-lights

"Over 100,000 bulbs sold and 1250+ great reviews - welcome to the original and best-reviewed after-market accessory for your Tesla Model Y!

16x brighter than the factory bulbs, CE & RoHS certified - these are the only bulbs for your precious Tesla!

Bewareof lower-quality bulbs; the window motors in your Model Y are grounded through the puddle lights, so if the light fails, so does the window, and it will not lower when you open the door."

At least they are upfront about it. That being said, I have their lights installed, with no issues so far...

 

[a2t2]

Man I totally missed that on their site. I’ve got them too and they work awesome. But it’s a light bulb - it will burn out some day right ?

What a crazy half ass wiring design, wonder why they ground a window motor thru a puddle lamp light ?

so after all this, it’s all got nothing to do with the current draw of the aftermarket light. It’s simply a ground that isn’t there if the puddle lamp burns out. Regardless of If the puddle light is oem or aftermarket. (Right?)

or does the Tesla light have a ground also built into it somehow incase it’s bulb burns out ? I might take mine apart and see..

in my opinion, if the oem light is not designed any differently, then Tesla should be liable for the damages caused by the OP replacing a simple light. It’s a negligent design to begin with.

 

[jeremymc7]

This is why I don’t do anything aftermarket anymore, at least while under warranty.

I’m aware of the laws and how it works. I’m also aware of the lengths that dealers will go to in avoiding warranty repair.

It’s not worth my time, but effort, and stress to deal with these things anymore.

If I had a personal assistant and a lawyer on retainer then I would do it all day long. But if I had that I prob wouldn’t care about a $500 bill either.

 

[MP3Mike]

The same thing just happened to me yesterday.

What brand of aftermarket puddle lights did you use?

 

[spokey]

Man I totally missed that on their site. I’ve got them too and they work awesome. But it’s a light bulb - it will burn out some day right ?

What a crazy half ass wiring design, wonder why they ground a window motor thru a puddle lamp light ?

so after all this, it’s all got nothing to do with the current draw of the aftermarket light. It’s simply a ground that isn’t there if the puddle lamp burns out. Regardless of If the puddle light is oem or aftermarket. (Right?)

or does the Tesla light have a ground also built into it somehow incase it’s bulb burns out ? I might take mine apart and see..

in my opinion, if the oem light is not designed any differently, then Tesla should be liable for the damages caused by the OP replacing a simple light. It’s a negligent design to begin with.

They call it a bulb but it's an LED. While they do have a limited lifetime like everything, their lifetime is probably longer than mine.