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Tesla Dash Cam Install and Now Tesla wants $420 to UnDoIt

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dratifk

Model Y LR Seven Seater RED
Ok so I usually don't post complaints like this but I need peoples advice. I have a Tesla Model 3 (White) Standard Plus with Full AutoDrive. It was Delivered in March in that rush before the Quarter ended. I had scratches on my Steering wheel airbag and every single panel was misaligned. Left Passenger door was almost 1/4 inch sticking out in the closed position. I took pictures of everything and sent it to Tesla. Got a response almost immediately that I should schedule a service. I'd schedule using the app and within one day it would drop off the app- they were canceling it. This happened 3 times before I just called and asked them why they said I was in their system and they need to order a new airbag. I asked them why they couldn't let me know this was the case instead of just canceling my appointments.

I let this slide but we are in Mid June now and still no replacement airbag.

Next issue I used a fellow members technique in installing a Dashcam getting constant power from the overhead hazard light module. Installation was flawless and everything worked great. However, about a week ago I started losing all Audio from the car no turn signal noise no alarms no Music nada. I took the car in and the Tech blows me off as far as the panel alignment issues by saying we are a new company and that it's within normal limits. I was frustrated but got them to do at least some minor adjustments - Not perfect like it should be for a 50K car. Also the next day they say my T tap installation to the module needs to be reversed since its possibly the cause they weren't sure. He's not sure it is but just wants me to pay $420 to install new wire harness and module even though they work perfectly. I didn't splice the wires just used these small T Taps. They couldn't even replace the harness or module because the parts were not in stock. The sound came back on its own mysteriously on the day I dropped it off and had nothing to do with disconnecting the dash cam.

A couple of questions should I pay them to replace a perfectly good working harness and module for $420?
I have the car back and don't need to as everything has been working. Seems like a waste but I don't want them to blame any electrical issue to my install. I have disconnected by install and reconnected the wiring to the 12 V in the center consule.
 
Ok so I usually don't post complaints like this but I need peoples advice. I have a Tesla Model 3 (White) Standard Plus with Full AutoDrive. It was Delivered in March in that rush before the Quarter ended. I had scratches on my Steering wheel airbag and every single panel was misaligned. Left Passenger door was almost 1/4 inch sticking out in the closed position. I took pictures of everything and sent it to Tesla. Got a response almost immediately that I should schedule a service. I'd schedule using the app and within one day it would drop off the app- they were canceling it. This happened 3 times before I just called and asked them why they said I was in their system and they need to order a new airbag. I asked them why they couldn't let me know this was the case instead of just canceling my appointments.

I let this slide but we are in Mid June now and still no replacement airbag.

Next issue I used a fellow members technique in installing a Dashcam getting constant power from the overhead hazard light module. Installation was flawless and everything worked great. However, about a week ago I started losing all Audio from the car no turn signal noise no alarms no Music nada. I took the car in and the Tech blows me off as far as the panel alignment issues by saying we are a new company and that it's within normal limits. I was frustrated but got them to do at least some minor adjustments - Not perfect like it should be for a 50K car. Also the next day they say my T tap installation to the module needs to be reversed since its possibly the cause they weren't sure. He's not sure it is but just wants me to pay $420 to install new wire harness and module even though they work perfectly. I didn't splice the wires just used these small T Taps. They couldn't even replace the harness or module because the parts were not in stock. The sound came back on its own mysteriously on the day I dropped it off and had nothing to do with disconnecting the dash cam.

A couple of questions should I pay them to replace a perfectly good working harness and module for $420?
I have the car back and don't need to as everything has been working. Seems like a waste but I don't want them to blame any electrical issue to my install. I have disconnected by install and reconnected the wiring to the 12 V in the center consule.
Hell no, just remove the T and make sure the wire isn't damaged.

They didn't start taking me seriously on alignment issues until I told them I will return / lemon the car (might be too late for you). Suddenly the crooked trunk that was as good as they could get it became fixable.
 
T taps can damage the wire.

Why did you need a dash cam as the model 3 has one already?


Because It records 4k and has Front Rear and it records sounds. There have been a few accidents that have been blamed on the Driver and the Tesla Cams don't record audio so no way for the driver to prove there was or wasn't a sound warning. Lots of Tesla owners use their own Dash Cams in addition to The built-in system.
 
Because It records 4k and has Front Rear and it records sounds. There have been a few accidents that have been blamed on the Driver and the Tesla Cams don't record audio so no way for the driver to prove there was or wasn't a sound warning. Lots of Tesla owners use their own Dash Cams in addition to The built-in system.
All good reasons. I bought my BlackVue before the TeslaCam was released and now I use both.
 
As to the door alignment issue that's completely unacceptable.

It's exactly why I advise people not to accept a delivery when there panel/body alignment issues. You can't trust any company to fix it once you've lost the power position.

The power position being you're in a position to walk away.

Disclaimer - I didn't follow my own rules when picking up my Model 3 so I recognize I'm a bit of a hypocrite. It's easier to let go of something imaginary than when it's right in front of you waiting to take home. :p
 
Delivered in March in that rush before the Quarter ended. I had scratches on my Steering wheel airbag and every single panel was misaligned. Left Passenger door was almost 1/4 inch sticking out in the closed position. I took pictures of everything and sent it to Tesla. Got a response almost immediately that I should schedule a service. I'd schedule using the app and within one day it would drop off the app- they were canceling it. This happened 3 times before I just called and asked them why they said I was in their system and they need to order a new airbag. I asked them why they couldn't let me know this was the case instead of just canceling my appointments.

I let this slide but we are in Mid June now and still no replacement airbag.

Problem #1 - you believed Tesla's promise of "we will fix it later".
The only solution now is to camp out in front of the service department until they address your concerns. It may take more then one trip, but eventually, you will get the to pay attention.

Forget about calling, emailing, or waiting on them to get back to you with anything that was promised in the past.
If you need something - you need to go and nag on them in person.


Next issue I used a fellow members technique in installing a Dashcam getting constant power from the overhead hazard light module. Installation was flawless and everything worked great. However, about a week ago I started losing all Audio from the car no turn signal noise no alarms no Music nada. [...] they say my T tap installation to the module needs to be reversed since its possibly the cause they weren't sure. He's not sure it is but just wants me to pay $420 to install new wire harness and module even though they work perfectly. I didn't splice the wires just used these small T Taps.

Unless the dealer can prove that the T-taps are actually causing the problem, this seams like a lame excuse to get you off their back.
For what it's worth, I've had sound muting on my TM3 on two occasions. One time, rebooting the infotainment system (two steering wheel rollers pressed simultaneously for a few secs) fixed the problem. The other time I left it charging overnight, and everything worked the next morning.


A couple of questions should I pay them to replace a perfectly good working harness and module for $420?

Hell no!
Double check that the camera taps did not brake the power source wire, but if the hazard light switch works, you know it didn't. Then hide the power wire and the camera out of sight in the roof liner before taking the car back in for service.

Don't give them a chance to scapegoat an unrelated item instead of fixing an actual problem with the car.

I've always been a supporter of Tesla's efforts to cut-out the dealer model from the distribution channel. One unintended consequence of that, however, is that you have no-one left to appeal to for help when your automotive OEM is shafting you with poor after-sales service, or lack thereof.

It is what it is.

a
 
This is why I don’t like the idea of tapping circuits in a car like the Tesla. In my Land Cruiser, I ran 2 gauge wire from the battery to an aux fuse box and isolated it with a circuit breaker and only run accessories off that. In the Tesla though, I wouldn’t add anything that’s not simply plug and play even if it “shouldn’t” cause a problem.
 
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This is why I don’t like the idea of tapping circuits in a car like the Tesla. In my Land Cruiser, I ran 2 gauge wire from the battery to an aux fuse box and isolated it with a circuit breaker and only run accessories off that. In the Tesla though, I wouldn’t add anything that’s not simply plug and play even if it “shouldn’t” cause a problem.
Too bad running dashcamera to the battery causes an issue in the tesla.
 
Ok so I usually don't post complaints like this but I need peoples advice. I have a Tesla Model 3 (White) Standard Plus with Full AutoDrive. It was Delivered in March in that rush before the Quarter ended. I had scratches on my Steering wheel airbag and every single panel was misaligned. Left Passenger door was almost 1/4 inch sticking out in the closed position. I took pictures of everything and sent it to Tesla. Got a response almost immediately that I should schedule a service. I'd schedule using the app and within one day it would drop off the app- they were canceling it. This happened 3 times before I just called and asked them why they said I was in their system and they need to order a new airbag. I asked them why they couldn't let me know this was the case instead of just canceling my appointments.

I let this slide but we are in Mid June now and still no replacement airbag.

Next issue I used a fellow members technique in installing a Dashcam getting constant power from the overhead hazard light module. Installation was flawless and everything worked great. However, about a week ago I started losing all Audio from the car no turn signal noise no alarms no Music nada. I took the car in and the Tech blows me off as far as the panel alignment issues by saying we are a new company and that it's within normal limits. I was frustrated but got them to do at least some minor adjustments - Not perfect like it should be for a 50K car. Also the next day they say my T tap installation to the module needs to be reversed since its possibly the cause they weren't sure. He's not sure it is but just wants me to pay $420 to install new wire harness and module even though they work perfectly. I didn't splice the wires just used these small T Taps. They couldn't even replace the harness or module because the parts were not in stock. The sound came back on its own mysteriously on the day I dropped it off and had nothing to do with disconnecting the dash cam.

A couple of questions should I pay them to replace a perfectly good working harness and module for $420?
I have the car back and don't need to as everything has been working. Seems like a waste but I don't want them to blame any electrical issue to my install. I have disconnected by install and reconnected the wiring to the 12 V in the center consule.


I’ve seen someone else post a thread about losing audio to multiple things in their car. Use search in the Model 3 forum to see what turns up. Might find you have company there and from something else you have in common.

And communication with the service centers could use improvement. Some have very communicative centers and others not so much.
 
Say what you will about the traditional dealership model and how crappy it is - (and it sure can be) but when it comes to in warranty service traditional dealerships have Tesla beat by a mile. Everyone's on the same page, techs are top notch, everyone wants to keep you happy so you buy your next car there & so you keep servicing there as it's the biggest profit center for the dealership.

With Tesla, the service department is in a completely different physical location from the "not dealership", there's no communication between departments, and it's not a profit center for Tesla so they're getting hammered just as much, if not more, but all the cost cutting going on....Really Tesla should structure these as profit centers with their own separate budgets and staff them appropriately. They're never going to be staffed as needed if it's just a money sucking warranty hole for the company.

The only caveat I'll throw in here is Mobile service - this is a great idea, I applaud Tesla for that - even if actually scheduling the service is not exactly transparent.
 
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Interesting that taping power would cause it to fault.
The Model 3 doesn’t use normal fu
Interesting that taping power would cause it to fault.
The Model 3 doesn’t use traditional fuses but rather a solid state device that will cut the circuit during over-current situations. The name escapes me. It ALSO enables the measurement of current draw on the circuit. If the draw exceeds a programmed value, the computer can decide what to do. You are playing with fire tapping 12V circuits on the M3 as there is no way to tell how much current draw will cause this condition. I don’t blame the technicians for not wanting to trouble shoot circuits where current draw is more than was programmed.
 
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Well, The Hazard light and the two dome lights work just fine. Yes, the T Taps go through the wire but it doesn't break the wire. My Dashcam and Radar work fine I have them connected to the 12 V cigarette wiring. Hopefully, they won't catch that. I got lucky they let me have the car back since the harness and module weren't in stock they ordered it but I won't go back now. My sound issue hasn't returned. Wish this car had an easy way to tap for 12 v. I've seen at least 6 ways people are getting power for their accessories.
 
My first Model 3 had an audio issue. Would lose sound randomly and a double scroll wheel reboot would fix it most the time. Sometimes it would just start working again after parking the car and coming back later. I was finally able to reproduce it if I struck the headliner where my sun visor was. They replaced a wiring harness in the headliner and the hazard module. The problem never returned. So they may not be 100% wrong with your diagnosis.
 
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