Don't have issue with sound even though I have been running T tap headlight unit for several months already.
I was doing fine as well until 16.2 update. What version of software are you on?
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Don't have issue with sound even though I have been running T tap headlight unit for several months already.
Went from 12 straight to 20, totally skipped 16.I was doing fine as well until 16.2 update. What version of software are you on?
In their defense those OBD dongles cause a ton of problems on high end cars.It seems like Tesla service will try to shift the blame to anything you've changed on your car when there's a problem. I had MetroMile insurance and it required plugging their dongle into the OBDII port. I started having "Power Reduced" on my MS75D and they blamed the dongle immediately. After multiple service visits and temporarily removing the dongle, they finally found it was a bad wiring harness between the accelerator pedal and the rear motor. Moral of the story is be ready to fight Tesla when you have a problem with a car that's not 100% stock.
This is why I don’t like the idea of tapping circuits in a car like the Tesla.
Too bad running dashcamera to the battery causes an issue in the tesla.
I have read tons of posts warning not to use a direct 12v connection to the battery. I guess some people get away with it, but the draw causes errors for other people.There is nothing special about 12V circuits in a Tesla!
Or any other EV, for that matter.
I've T-tapped 12V in my TM3 with zero side effects.
As I had previously done in BMWs, Hondas, MINIs, and MBs.
None of the above wiring arrangements had any negative warranty impacts, or push-backs from those dealers.
Then again, all of the above brands managed to deliver a far more competent dealership service experience then Tesla does.
It does not.
There is zero evidence that it does anything to the car.
The only data point we have is that a clueless and incompetent Tesla service rep tried to take <dratifk> for a ride blaming lack of sound (a known recurring Tesla malady) on his 12V power tap.
a
Coming to 2 years on mine and no issues either.Not necessarily. My BlackVue has been running off the 12v battery for about a year and a half. No issues.
I was doing fine as well until 16.2 update. What version of software are you on?
I have read tons of posts warning not to use a direct 12v connection to the battery. I guess some people get away with it, but the draw causes errors for other people.
20.1 currently. I was on 16.2 without issue though. What problems are you seeing?
It is true, it's highly unlikely tapping 12V will cause any issues. It does not matter to apply logic. The problem is convincing every technician that might touch your car that it's not a problem.
My Jeep has a standard plug for plugging in an Electric Brake Controller under the dash. The receptacle under the dash is basically wired into the Trailer Hitch receptacle. Brake controller gets power from the trailer hitch wiring and sends proportional power to a brake lead on the trailer hitch to operate the brakes on the trailer. It's a very common standard. Most trailers with electric brakes and trailering vehicles have a receptacle for it. My Jeep threw an ABS error code (like a bad ABS sensor, not while a trailer was even hooked up). Jeep refused to work on it because I had a non Mopar Brake Controller plugged in. Mopar OEM's the cheapest junkiest brake controller made. I bought one of the best most common ones folks recommend. Boy, did I lose it with this tech. I now remove the brake controller every time I bring it in for service. Luckily that isn't often.
However, one thing to be careful of is tapping anything that is "always on" in the Tesla because it could confuse the BMS that periodically charges the 12V. Car might not sleep correctly or not charge the 12V correctly or something. One person on the forum hooked directly to the battery for a dashcam. The battery went bad and Tesla replaced it (on good faith for free) and removed the dashcam connection. And told the customer don't hook it up again if you want things covered.
There is no way the harness is causing the sound to not work. Even if you cut the wire or shorted it and blew the fuse it's not gonna stop the sound from "temporarily" working
People need to understand the 12V system in the M3 is not like those in Jeeps. Their hardware can constantly monitor current draw and reports the values to the software stack. Without knowing exactly what the software defined limits and checks are, you don’t know whether or not adding current with adversely affect the system. People are too used to thinking the 12V system in the model 3 is pretty independent like in every other car. It’s not. Blanket statements that tapping the 12V lines should/will not affect anything else are false.
The 12V power port is the only source where you can assume you’re safe to tap that I’m aware of.
The Model 3 doesn’t use normal fu
The Model 3 doesn’t use traditional fuses but rather a solid state device that will cut the circuit during over-current situations. The name escapes me. It ALSO enables the measurement of current draw on the circuit. If the draw exceeds a programmed value, the computer can decide what to do. You are playing with fire tapping 12V circuits on the M3 as there is no way to tell how much current draw will cause this condition. I don’t blame the technicians for not wanting to trouble shoot circuits where current draw is more than was programmed.
Absolutely correct. You have no way of knowing if a 12 v tap will cause problems. EVERYTHING in a Tesla is monitored. The 12 v socket is the only safe place.People need to understand the 12V system in the M3 is not like those in Jeeps. Their hardware can constantly monitor current draw and reports the values to the software stack. Without knowing exactly what the software defined limits and checks are, you don’t know whether or not adding current with adversely affect the system. People are too used to thinking the 12V system in the model 3 is pretty independent like in every other car. It’s not. Blanket statements that tapping the 12V lines should/will not affect anything else are false.
The 12V power port is the only source where you can assume you’re safe to tap that I’m aware of.
Yep, the built in is nice but not great. I witnessed an event today that I would have liked to have saved but I didn't think of it until about an hour later, too late already deleted. With my Blackvue that isn't an issue, with my memory card i save about 3 days of video.All good reasons. I bought my BlackVue before the TeslaCam was released and now I use both.
People need to understand the 12V system in the M3 is not like those in Jeeps. Their hardware can constantly monitor current draw and reports the values to the software stack.
Without knowing exactly what the software defined limits and checks are, you don’t know whether or not adding current with adversely affect the system. People are too used to thinking the 12V system in the model 3 is pretty independent like in every other car. It’s not. Blanket statements that tapping the 12V lines should/will not affect anything else are false.